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Confused

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Confused last won the day on March 22

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  1. Yes, the ECU in my case is just sending a control signal. The main pump power is switched on by an ignition fed relay. Prior to this, I had a basic 2 pin on/off pump, which I used the relay switched from the ECU, so it only ran when the engine was running. A minor wiring change, I'm even using the same output from the ECU, but controllable nicely now.
  2. I'm using a pump from an X5, a Pierburg CWA50, for my water to air chargecooler. I posted my settings in this thread here, hope it helps!
  3. I was hoping to do similar - when I had my standard Mitsubishi ECU, the aftermarket community had enabled the ability to flash the Check Engine Light when knock was detected over the defined threshold. Unfortunately, I found that with the Link ECU, there's no way to get it to set an Aux output based on anything other than a static knock level, despite your Knock Target being a table. So, if your Knock Target is 400 at 3000rpm but 600 at 6000rpm, you'll need to choose whether to be told about levels over 400, and then you'll potentially get "falsely" notified of knock at higher RPM, or set your warning for the high RPM knock level, but not be able to be informed about knock levels above your target at lower RPM. What's needed, IMO, is a Knock Level > Knock Target option (and the corresponding Knock Level < Knock Target option.
  4. The BISC setting on a 1997-02 Galant VR-4 using a MUT / EvoScan locks the ISC at 22 steps from fully closed. I'd hazard a guess that doing likewise on the Link, along with disabling any other variable idle adjustments, should yield similar results if the idle screw has been changed from the factory calibrated default. I'm unsure if using the MUT also locks timing during this procedure, but you could temporarily modify the ignition table to give a fixed ignition angle, and then the combination of stepper plus idle ignition correction should help stabilise it for day to day use.
  5. You've hit RPM limit 4 times, and the maximum engine speed it's seen is 5959rpm, and maximum IAT and ECT is 100 and 101 degrees C respectively. Max MAP value it's seen is 331kpa (2.3 bar boost). Your fuel table is only scaled to 150kpa, but your ignition table is scaled to 245kpa. Without any logs, it's difficult to tell what is causing it. I'd do a Statistics reset on the ECU, and try to get hold of logs that show the issue.
  6. Hi Dan I've got a G4+ on my VR4 engined Ford Anglia, and briefly played with one one in an auto Legnum too. I'm using a slightly modified Evo 1-3 plugin. I'd strongly recommend getting a Wire-In version of the ECU, rather than one of the plug-in versions. It gives you much more flexibility for wiring and features to use, at the slight expense of having to do a little custom wiring changes. One question... Do you have an auto or manual gearbox? One thing I'd not got round to figuring out before I moved on was the torque reduction signal from the auto ECU, which reduces power output during gearshifts. This will be important for longevity of the gearbox, but if course not applicable for a manual!
  7. Confused

    Mixture Map

    You probably have different Mixture Map settings between the two machines if you get a different result with the same log. The Mixture Map table will only show cells where you meet all the criteria. It isn't often that you'll fill a large amount of the table from a single log.
  8. You can set your maximum trim percentage to the maximum modification value you are happy with, for example 5%. This will then never add or remove more than 5% fuel. If the sensor does, for some reason, fail in a way that it is still giving a reading (albeit incorrect), you won't get a massive correction applied.
  9. Your tune needs to be good enough to run the engine correctly with no oxygen sensor feedback. Then, closed loop lambda should only be making very minor temporary adjustments.
  10. Also, if you press the H key on your keyboard, that will enable colours on the table - these sharp transitions should stick out like a sore thumb, as you'll not get a nice smooth gradient, but a sharp transition from green to red in this case.
  11. You may have shown a simplified example, but in the case shown in your screenshots, your X axis values in Target 1 table are identical - so you could just change the X axis to the AN10 Voltage (like you've done in table 2) and you'll have your 8 differing configurations.
  12. Thanks for the quick reply, Adam, much appreciated! Yeah still wired as wasted spark unfortunately, I wish you'd not used IGN4 for ECU hold power!
  13. Hi, Do I need to do anything special to get R8 coils working on my Evo 1-3 PnP ECU? Any resistors needed adding or changes to spark edge settings? I know I'll need to adjust dwell times accordingly. Cheers!
  14. It'd help to know which pump you're using, but I posted in the above thread with my settings for the Pierburg CWA pump.
  15. I've killed a couple of sensors (with different controllers) because of the same - ignition on, engine off, then starting the engine. I've done exactly as you've suggested, GP output to a relay, only active when RPM over 400.
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