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Confused

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Confused last won the day on July 1

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  1. Options -> Connection... -> Connection Mode = Auto On the Preferences tab, you can also set it to enter fullscreen mode automatically, if that's of any help too!
  2. I've also recently switched from Traditional to Modelled. I used one of the Basemaps that comes with PC Link (maybe the Monsoon one) as a starting point. I am road tuning, though, so having a basemap with roughly the right shape helped a little - if you're dyno tuning then it's probably almost as quick to start from scratch again.
  3. Yes, once you've got your fuel table pretty much correct, you can use Closed Loop Lambda to make minor adjustments. The Help file within PC Link goes into full details of the various options, and how to configure them.
  4. Can you let us know how you fixed the issue, and what was wrong? Someone else might come across a similar issue to you in the future.
  5. You'll need to amend the "Calibration DI #1" value to the correct number of pulses per 100m You can try to calculate it, or just try giving it a big change, such as to 100, 200, 300 etc until it gets closer to the correct speed, then make smaller changes to dial it in. For reference, I've got calibration values of 236 and 906 for my front and rear speed sensors, but these are reading from the diff-prop mounts, and the back of the hub on the 4 bolts holding the brake disk on, so I don't know if these values will be anywhere near for you, but to show that there is quite an applicable range for the Calibration value!
  6. Hi Adam, Yep, it's "Cruise Light" I've been trying to use.
  7. Hi, I have Cruise Control generally up and running OK, but would like to switch E-Throttle target table when Cruise is active to try to further smooth out the throttle response (a suggestion I saw in another thread on here). I'm trying to set up an output as "Cruise Active", but it never switches to "On" state - have tried Virtual Aux, as a generic Aux and an Ignition Aux, but all with the same result - Cruise Active doesn't seem to change to Active. I'm running 5.6.6.3557, and other than this, haven't come across any other issues, so would prefer to not roll back if possible! Any advice or things to try will be appreciated (although may be a little slow in trying out suggestions due to the Christmas period) Cheers!
  8. Confused

    12v PWM Output

    Thanks Richard and Adam. I spent a while looking through the manual but obviously didn't realise that at 0% duty it's actually outputting 12v, I thought it was floating. That makes life a lot easier, and I'll invert the values in the table I've already started to put together. Cheers for the quick responses! Garry
  9. Confused

    12v PWM Output

    Hi all, I am in the process of fitting a Pierburg CWA50 chargecooler pump (commonly used on BMW X5M). This is speed controllable via PWM, and it expects 12v input on the PWM pin. I'm using Aux 6 on a G4+ Extreme. Am I right in believing that the PWM outputs can only switch to ground (otherwise they are floating) - which appears to be the opposite of what I need here? I'm happy to build a small circuit (or buy something) to convert this Negative-switched PWM signal into a positive-switched PWM signal. I can (to get it up and running) feed it 12v through a 1k resistor, which will set the pump at full speed, but I would like to be able to control it via my shiny ECU. Cheers in advance!
  10. Change the table to a 3D table, and you can change the axis values.
  11. Hi all, Now that I've got it running quite nicely, thought I'd show off my 1967 Ford Anglia 105E. This has a Mitsubishi Legnum/Galant VR-4 6A13TT engine - a 2.5 litre, 24 valve, quad cam, twin turbo V6. As there's no space in the engine bay, the original MAF setup is gone, replaced with the Link G4+ Xtreme. Added a Subaru E-Throttle because the Xtreme can support it. There's no intercooler, instead I'm using a 6x4 barrel-style chargecooler, so the overall inlet length is miniscule - the standard TD03 turbos spooled up quick in the original car, they're even quicker now without 10ft of inlet and a large intercooler to compress! Driveline is Nissan 200SX 5-speed gearbox and V-LSD, on custom made fully independent and adjustable rear suspension. Only running 185/60/13 tyres on the back, so traction is an issue in all weathers! Threw it on the dyno yesterday, fairly happy with the result - 324hp/360ft-lb at the wheels... if you take an estimated 18% power loss through transmission, that makes it ~382hp/424ft-lb at the flywheel. Originally I was using the standard Mitsubishi ECU and a MAP-ECU piggy-back to eliminate the MAF, but it never really ran right. Purchased the Link earlier this year, and it has been fantastic so far, very easy to tweak and manipulate, adding DBW only took a couple of hours, and I've got cruise control working (ish, apart from the overshooting the set speed on hitting the Resume button), which even my daily (a Mitsubishi Legnum VR-4) doesn't have! I will start playing with setting up Launch Control and Traction Control soon to try to get this power down onto the road better, and not that I really need it, but Anti-Lag too, just because I can!
  12. Did you copy it from the flash drive to the laptop before opening it from the laptop hard drive? Sounds like it was opened from the flash drive, so when it's unplugged, it can't find it, so reverts to the default on the hard drive.
  13. If your tablet works, then just grab a USB or Bluetooth keyboard for it I personally use my Dell XPS13 laptop, it's small, light, and has great battery life and good screen.
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