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Confused

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Confused last won the day on March 22

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  1. I've got an Evo 1-3 ECU in my Anglia running a 6A13TT, so I replaced the connectors when I rewired the car. From RS Components the part numbers you'll want are: 12 way - 720-1017 16 way - 712-2163 22 way - 712-2485 26 way - 712-2497 Pin inserts for these are: Small - 712-1909 Large - 712-1911 The Evo 1-3 only uses 3 of the 4 connectors (as does the Legnum/Galant VR-4, but the later Evo 4-8 uses all 4 sizes. If you wanted to make some kind of patch harness, then you might want 720-1014 (or 720-0979, can't tell the differences!) as a 4 way female, where you could p
  2. There is a Purge option you can choose for an Auxilary Output. The help file outlines when it activates: It does not use the FP solenoid, so that can be safely removed! All of the necessary compensations for this can be programmed using the existing functionality.
  3. Confused

    Fuel map adjustment

    It is fixed. You can use the Mixture Map function in PC Link to analyse a log file, which will make suggestions to modify the fuel table based on recorded AFR and target AFR. This will be an iterative process, and may take many logging sessions to perfect.
  4. Is LTT stored per load cell, at the same resolution as the fuel table, or is it just an average applied to the whole table? What happens when you modify the fuel table? Does LTT get reset for this modified cell? Does the saved LTT still get applied to the modified cell, meaning it's still incorrect? What about us G4+ people? If STFT is being logged, we still want to be able to use that data in the mixture map.
  5. I get that Link are a relatively small company, with limited resources. I'm not expecting large features to be back-ported, but there are a number of longstanding known bugs and issues with the G4+ range (cruise active light, as one simple example that directly affects me), and we feel abandoned, because there's something new and shiny, and existing features on our product aren't working properly. I'm intrigued to see the new advances coming in the G4x range, and I might be tempted to upgrade in the future, but I'm currently wary about upgrading and having another issue that's
  6. You'll need to post tune, plus PC logs capturing all parameters. The log should probably contain (at the least) it working "correctly" in Setup mode, with varying throttle positions, slow sweeps plus faster changes etc, and it going into ON mode and showing the fault. A comprehensive log file showing the issue will help you get some advice and a resolution quicker.
  7. All the ones where the name starts with "Cruise" need to be the same type (digital or analogue) The brake, clutch and speed on digital are fine, and working well on mine. The only thing to note is that the "Cruise light" functionality is currently broken.
  8. Confused

    PC Link New Layouts

    Thanks Adam! The 1920x1080 one looks great on my XPS13 (3200x1800) running at 150% display scaling, just a few unused pixels at the bottom of the page. That does mean I can drop everything down a little and expand the table areas so I hopefully won't need to scroll! New G4+ PCLink version... ooh does that mean a few of the wishlist items & outstanding bugs might be included? I understand your primary focus is the G4X range, but please don't forget us G4+ people too quickly!
  9. I didn't have any luck trying to do a gear calibration. The driven and non driven speeds were showing correctly. However, after looking through a short log that contained driving in all 5 gears, and manually entering the values in the log into the gear ratio table, my gear detection has been absolutely spot on since.
  10. Yes, the ECU in my case is just sending a control signal. The main pump power is switched on by an ignition fed relay. Prior to this, I had a basic 2 pin on/off pump, which I used the relay switched from the ECU, so it only ran when the engine was running. A minor wiring change, I'm even using the same output from the ECU, but controllable nicely now.
  11. I'm using a pump from an X5, a Pierburg CWA50, for my water to air chargecooler. I posted my settings in this thread here, hope it helps!
  12. I was hoping to do similar - when I had my standard Mitsubishi ECU, the aftermarket community had enabled the ability to flash the Check Engine Light when knock was detected over the defined threshold. Unfortunately, I found that with the Link ECU, there's no way to get it to set an Aux output based on anything other than a static knock level, despite your Knock Target being a table. So, if your Knock Target is 400 at 3000rpm but 600 at 6000rpm, you'll need to choose whether to be told about levels over 400, and then you'll potentially get "falsely" notified of knock at higher RPM, or set
  13. The BISC setting on a 1997-02 Galant VR-4 using a MUT / EvoScan locks the ISC at 22 steps from fully closed. I'd hazard a guess that doing likewise on the Link, along with disabling any other variable idle adjustments, should yield similar results if the idle screw has been changed from the factory calibrated default. I'm unsure if using the MUT also locks timing during this procedure, but you could temporarily modify the ignition table to give a fixed ignition angle, and then the combination of stepper plus idle ignition correction should help stabilise it for day to day use.
  14. You've hit RPM limit 4 times, and the maximum engine speed it's seen is 5959rpm, and maximum IAT and ECT is 100 and 101 degrees C respectively. Max MAP value it's seen is 331kpa (2.3 bar boost). Your fuel table is only scaled to 150kpa, but your ignition table is scaled to 245kpa. Without any logs, it's difficult to tell what is causing it. I'd do a Statistics reset on the ECU, and try to get hold of logs that show the issue.
  15. Hi Dan I've got a G4+ on my VR4 engined Ford Anglia, and briefly played with one one in an auto Legnum too. I'm using a slightly modified Evo 1-3 plugin. I'd strongly recommend getting a Wire-In version of the ECU, rather than one of the plug-in versions. It gives you much more flexibility for wiring and features to use, at the slight expense of having to do a little custom wiring changes. One question... Do you have an auto or manual gearbox? One thing I'd not got round to figuring out before I moved on was the torque reduction signal from the auto ECU, which reduces power outp
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