Confused

Seems like in the G4+ range you can only assign an An Temp input as the specific function Engine Oil Temp. You may need to look at re-wiring some stuff if this is important to you It looks like this limitation has been lifted in the G4X/G5.

At least half of the questions asked here or on Facebook can be answered by the person asking the question simply looking at the Help! However, yeah, ideally a little list or tooltip or something in the app to indicate what can be found will hopefully cut down some instances of that question!

No, it's not built in, and the best is the Link CAN Lambda, which will communicate via CANBUS, a purely digital signal

Would be useful to share your configuration, too, it provides more context when looking at the log. There might be a combination of things that could cause it, that the log alone may not show.

I'm not sure if the app tells you, but there's at most a dozen Analogue inputs, it would have taken less time to look through them all than it would have taken to ask this question Don't forget that there's a number of built-in calibrations, you may not need to use a custom calibration.

Connect the USB cable to the ECU, press F3 to connect once it's powered on, and when it's connected and showing the current config, go to File -> Save As, and this will allow you to save it to the computer. This is all also explained in the Help, which you can get at by pressing F1.

The Narrowband sensor is practically useless. Ditch it, replace it with the Link CAN Lambda module, or if you happen to have another wideband controller that isn't junk, you can utilise this analogue input for it's wideband 0-5v output.

They can be wired directly to the ECU, but you'll require 4 Digital Inputs. Well, actually, technically, you'll only need 2, as you can get away with one front wheel (driven) speed sensor and one rear wheel (driving) speed sensor. If you've already got a gearbox speed sensor hooked up, you already have a driving speed sensor, so you'll only need 1 free Digital Input (and one sensor). But more information is always better... If you can't find those free Digital Inputs, then you can bring that into the ECU via CANBUS. So long as the CAN isn't already used for a predefined vehicle specific function, then you can add multiple devices to a CAN network at the same time.

Don't let the laptop sleep.

This is a wiring "fault" - typically one of the relays that feeds auxiliary stuff (for example a boost solenoid) is fed from a permanent source, rather than a switched source. This is explained really well in the Help both why it happens and how to prevent it, take a look at the section Wiring Information -> Output Wiring -> Auxiliary Output Wiring -> Wiring Auxiliary Outputs -> Avoiding Auxiliary Output Back-feeding

This is my most disliked change in PC Link. Depending on where I'm sitting in the car, I change USB port, I connect to multiple ECUs, so pre-selecting a COM port won't necessarily help to connect to an ECU. I kind of understand why it's been added, but maybe Auto mode could be set to check USB first, then pop up the dialog if not found, or have an option to reverse that if the user chooses?

I would consider looking at getting the ECU to send out the Generic Dash stream - all the frames, values and offsets for this are in the Help file. This might help give you some ideas on scaling and offsets too. Remember that values it will be in metric, so kPa, not PSI, Celsius not Farenheit.

Two options: 1) increase the PWM Frequency from 500Hz. You may need to change the PID settings slightly due to the higher control frequency. 2) Change "Run Throttle" to "Quiet" - it'll turn off the motor when the engine isn't running, and it will sit at its natural rest point until the engine starts. You could also do both.

Install the decent lambda controller ASAP - it will greatly aid in starting to dial in your fuelling table.

I've seen a few people recently pin these backwards, so I would double check you've connected it up correctly.

My understanding is that the ECU works & stores data in Celcius, but just does a visual conversion to/from Farenheit, which might explain some of the oddities when entering values. For a fan speed table like this, a couple degrees Farenheit difference will make almost no difference overall. Maybe a good opportunity to convert your thinking to Celcius, Lambda and kPa!

You can open two copies of PC Link software and open the PCLR file you have in one, and work on your own configuration in another window. I've done this many times when comparing (even though, yes, there is a built-in Compare function) or copying from one to the other.

Yes, the aux outputs will be grounded when the ECU is off. This is clearly explained in the Help, even with diagrams explaining how/why! One reason why Link's documentation is one of the best!

That screenshot is probably misleading - the " - XX Wheel Speed" suffix only gets added in that screen once you've assigned that "CAN Freq X" as the Source to the function. It's a visual aid in this screen to help, only - you are wanting to assign the incoming data to the CAN Freq X.

Yes, you can assign an incoming data item to a CAN Freq X parameter. You then, under the Speed Sources setup, set LF Wheel Speed etc to this parameter. You can't directly assign to parameters like LF Wheel Speed.

The Link's outputs go to ground when active - so give the coil a 12v ignition switched feed on one side, and the Link's Aux output on the other side.

Unfortunately no, you can't reassign outputs in G4+, ignition drives have to be in sequence - Ignition 1 through X. It is a new feature they've added to the latest release of the G4X firmware, however... not that it really helps you! The "spare" "Ignition" outputs on the expansion port can be used as extra auxiliary outputs for various other function, but ignition can't skip over "unused" ignition outputs. If you need sequential ignition, you're going to have to re-pin Ign 1-4 on the main header.

You may just not be spinning the wheel fast enough - some OEM sensors won't give a signal that the ECU can read until you're doing something like 20mph.

Glad you got to the bottom of it - turns out I was wrong then, it was a wiring issue

It's probably a configuration issue rather than a wiring issue. Have you set up your throttle target table? Have you got "Run when stalled" set to Quiet Throttle?