Confused

I agree completely, Link's social media game isn't that strong (unless you're following some drifting series), you guys need to shout more about how good your stuff is!

There are people out there who will remote tune, but at this point, let's start with "what's wrong", or "what's not working" or "what are you trying to achieve"? There's a huge wealth of information and advice available here, and part of the fun for me is the learning - and understanding how this all pieces together. Don't forget and underestimate the Help available in the PC Link software - it's FANTASTIC and exceptionally detailed - the best Help I've ever seen in my time in the software industry.

If the APS and TPS calibration worked, then your throttle is functionally working, so yes, it's probably configuration. Share your config file, and people will be able to advise. However, some questions to maybe help you troubleshoot this yourself... "Run when stalled" - is this set to Enabled or Quiet Throttle? If set to Quiet, then it won't do anything until the engine is turning. Have you configured your E-Throttle Target table - you may find it's full of 0s.

I would strongly recommend against this - but instead just install a Flex Fuel sensor - and let the ECU take care of it. Also, if the quality of your "E85" fuel changes - which it likely will - again, the ECU will just take care of it. And, in that period where you've got a mixture in your tank and lines - the ECU takes care of it. Ideally you want as little human interaction with regards to the core fundamentals and engine protection - instead add the relevant sensors and let the ECU do the heavy lifting!

Your Warmup may well be "tuned" - but it's "tuned" based on the operating temperature fuelling table - which CLL and LTFT are indicating are incorrect. So - with CLL and LTFT Learning enabled, you are slowly correcting your underlying fuelling table. Remember that the Warmup stuff is making modifications on top of the underlying fuel calculations from the fuel table - you've baked in errors here - so your now "tuned" warmup needs re-tuning based upon the corrected values in the main fuelling tables.

No, you don't. The ECU talks directly to the sensors, and does everything you need it to. If you think you need to set a calibration, you've set something up incorrectly, and haven't followed the instructions/Help. In the configuration tree, you do go to Analog Inputs -> Lambda 1/2, but from the "Lambda Sensor Control" option you simply choose "Internal", and that's it, everything done.

Would fully recommend the Link CAN Lambda. You don't get a screen with it, but you don't really need it once the ECU is set up to respond to the lambda readings it receives.

I've had the pleasure of helping a friend with his ECUMaster Classic ECU, and the one very immediate thing that sets it apart from Link is the quality of the software, and the Help. The ECUMaster Classic software is, in my opinion clunky, unintuitive, and not user friendly at all. And, the "Help" is practically non-existant. Whilst Link's software does also have its quirks, it's substantially more streamlined and user friendly, and the in-application Help is the very best Help/Documentation I have EVER seen for any product in my 20+ years in the computer/software industry. It's not just a technical reference guide, it teaches you the theory behind the functions too - which, if you're a newbie, is exceptionally beneficial! Whether their newer Black range software is less bad, I don't know, I've not spent the time to investigate this yet. Before you consider Wire-In or Plug-In - have a GOOD long, hard think about all the things you might want the ECU to do - whilst the Plug-In Links are based upon the Xtreme model, each individual vehicle-specific model has varying numbers of inputs & outputs that are exposed to the user - and one of the reasons you pay different prices for each vehicle model based upon this. Once I'd started to figure out all the cool stuff the Link ECU could do (E-Throttle, Cruise Control, Traction Control, Launch Control etc) I found myself very quickly running out of inputs & outputs, and had to modify my goals based upon what inputs & outputs I had available to me. If I were picking an ECU again, I'd weigh this up in my choice of whether I have the "short term gain" of having something that plugged into my vehicle loom directly, or the "long term gain" of having the full range of I/O available to me. This can be negated somewhat by adding I/O via CANBUS devices, such as the Razor - or almost any other manufacturer's PDM - as the Link CANBUS is, I believe, by far the most flexible of all aftermarket ECU manufacturers. This support forum has also been an absolute gold-mine of information - it is now the only forum I still visit on a daily basis - all other forums have been "taken over" by social media, but this is still the best resource. Yes, there's Link related FB groups, but you can't search, you can't upload/share files easily, and there's years of history here, and such a wide variety of questions being asked almost daily. Whilst the likes of Haltech provide phone support (as do Link!) they only really offer this as their only option - you can't ask for support on their own forum! Sometimes though you need feedback from your fellow owners too, and with forum posts you can go away, research, and come back with the next piece of the puzzle, which you lose if you rely only on phone support.

I'd personally relocate the CAN Lambda so that you don't need to muck around with extension cables.

Are you DEFINITELY sure that you have ignition switched 12v to one side of the solenoid connector (with it unplugged) and the other goes to the ECU. It kind of sounds like maybe you've got it wired incorrectly.

Try rotating the sensor 90 degrees.

This is where it pays for you to get injectors from somewhere like Injector Dynamics - they provide a huge range of injector characteristic data, which can greatly reduce the fudging time during tuning - where tuning time on a dyno will cost you more than the difference in price to just buy injectors with good data in the first place.

Have you tried adding the 22uF capacitor to the power supply, as per the "Alternative" wiring diagram?

Yes, you can put multiple devices on a CAN bus - the only requirement is that they all run at the same "speed". All of Link's products default to 1mbit/s speed, so it's absolutely not a problem. You're correct that you can use a CAN-TEE to add extra devices.

@dx4picco has already told you where you are mistaken - on the "advert" I have always seen it specify that you need to check each individual ECU's pinout to verify how many of those inputs and outputs are available - so that's why I'm suggesting that you seem to have missed that during your pre-sale research, and seemingly also after being told specifically here... It's not a problem with Link's marketing material.

Each and every Plug-in ECU has a different selection of inputs and outputs available, either via the main header or via the expansion connectors. Some boards DON'T expose as many as others, and the price you pay reflects this - ECUs with fewer inputs and outputs cost less than those with more. Your lack of proper research and suitability checking prior to purchase does not constitute a failing on Link's side. Is it frustrating to "see" inputs and outputs in the app that don't exist on your hardware that you wish you could use - yes... That said, Link do tend to offer the ability to send the ECU back and have some of the "unavailable" inputs and outputs exposed to unused pins on the main ECU header, at a cost, of course...

An Temp has an inbuilt resistor (fixed 1k for An Temp 3 & 4, selectable OFF, 1k or 10k for An Temp 1 & 2), designed for reading a temperature sensor, An Volt doesn't have a pull up resistor. You can use An Volt inputs as extra temperature inputs, but you need to supply your own external resistor in the wiring loom.

I would sell your current gauges and sensors to someone who doesn't yet want to use a decent ECU, and instead have a bank of gauges, and you can use that money instead to put known sensors directly into the ECU, and get all the advantages of the ECU to perform protection strategies, and then maybe a single CAN gauge to flash up when there's any errors and the ECU has stepped in - this will be far better in my opinion than having a bank of gauges you're not looking at when you're pressing on, and can't react as quickly as the ECU can.

Yes, it is fine to use multiple splitters.

It can support up to 8 CAN Lambdas. Each one, out of the box, is configured as Lambda 1. You need to connect them only one at a time, to reconfigure the extras as Lambda 2, Lambda 3 etc, then finally, you can connect back the one you want as Lambda 1.

Yes. The only thing is that EVERYTHING on the bus MUST run at the same Bit Rate. I believe all the Link stuff defaults to 1 Mbit/s, so with that configuration, you should be fine.

Yes, you could set up GP Limiter based on oil pressure. I believe there's an example in the Help.

You're correct that in theory, they should read the same temperature when left overnight. I assume both are pinned to An Temp inputs on the ECU, and both have the internal 1k pull-up resistor enabled (if it's one of the inputs where it's selectable)? What I would do is eliminate the engine - unscrew all sensors from the engine, and place them next to each other, and then also apply heat, such as from a hairdryer, and you should then see them both increase in temperature readings pretty much the same once they stabilise. You can also look at the raw voltage readings coming from the two sensors. Finally, switch the two sensors between the two inputs, and see whether the "issue" follows the sensor or the input.

This could be PID settings incorrect, and need amending, it could be a failing TPS sensor, or it could be any number of other things. I think the best thing you can do next is to either set up your ECU logging with all of the E-Throttle and TPS related parameters, or keep a laptop plugged in, and logging everything, and share a copy of your configuration file and the resulting log file that shows the error occurring.

Stupid thought, you've definitely got the sensors wired the correct way round? Some wiring diagrams show the pins as looking into the connector, some as looking into the sensor itself - it's quite easy on a 3 pin sensor like this to get a couple of the pins the wrong way round. For the same issue to show itself on two sensors - the chances of both sensors being dead seem low - more likely is the same wiring fault applied to both of them.