Confused

Have added more info to the help, a note to the CAN Devices tab of the CAN Setup window and improved how specific it is when pointing you at help from each CAN Setup tab. Will be in next release.

The Narrowband sensor is practically useless.
Ditch it, replace it with the Link CAN Lambda module, or if you happen to have another wideband controller that isn't junk, you can utilise this analogue input for it's wideband 0-5v output.

Just to add to this. 
Maybe the option to connect to other ECU's/devices should be relagated to a drop down menu option, rather than prompting you when connecting to ECU. Really slows down workflow. 
Maybe its just coincidence, but since running the latest release it seems like the entire software is running so bloody slow, its infuriating. I'll have to try the steps outlined above to see if I get same behavior, but I've had a crash or two and couple tables bug out on me, as I'm constantly connecting/disconnecting from the ECU.  Normally Link software is bulletproof so this is not great. Please fix!

No, you don't. The ECU talks directly to the sensors, and does everything you need it to.
If you think you need to set a calibration, you've set something up incorrectly, and haven't followed the instructions/Help.
In the configuration tree, you do go to Analog Inputs -> Lambda 1/2, but from the "Lambda Sensor Control" option you simply choose "Internal", and that's it, everything done.
 

So this car has sat since November 30th, 2019
I just started to try to complete the wiring on the car yesterday.  The long hiatus was due to a fire started by a neighboring suite that burned my business down.  The laptop that had my notes and diagrams and everything was destroyed in the fire.  Finally after 4.5 years I decided I need to finish this car.   Luckily I came here and found my notes, and my spreadsheet.  Otherwise I would have had to start all over.   trying to log what I had planned originally.   
Thank God, I uploaded it here!
I spent all day yesterday wiring what I knew and building a new fuse box that is smaller than the factory Toyota fuse box so it'll fit in the trunk behind the carpet!
Hopefully I can finish the car and have it running before the summer heat hits.

This is my most disliked change in PC Link.
Depending on where I'm sitting in the car, I change USB port, I connect to multiple ECUs, so pre-selecting a COM port won't necessarily help to connect to an ECU.
I kind of understand why it's been added, but maybe Auto mode could be set to check USB first, then pop up the dialog if not found, or have an option to reverse that if the user chooses?

Install the decent lambda controller ASAP - it will greatly aid in starting to dial in your fuelling table.

It's never too early to have a good lambda device.  The tuner can use it as well which may save time and cost while tuning.

You could equally say you fixed it by fitting a carburettor, but most would argue that or traditional fuel equation is not a fix to the problem you had, it is just a more basic alternative method to supply fuel. 
Modelled fuel equation is based on calculating the mass of air ingested and adding the correct fuel mass to it, if you input the wrong fuel data then the fuel mass will be calculated wrong.  Traditional mode is purely based on a commanded pulse width, the ecu has no idea of air or fuel mass so there are no fuel settings to get wrong.  

Yes in G4+ you could assign the runtime directly which could cause issues with multiple things writing to it, in G5 there are dedicated CAN runtimes that can then be assigned to the specific runtime in the ECU. This also means you can do wheel speed correction in the ECU instead of being stuck with what you receive over CAN or playing games with CAN multi/divs.

That screenshot is probably misleading - the " - XX Wheel Speed" suffix only gets added in that screen once you've assigned that "CAN Freq X" as the Source to the function.
It's a visual aid in this screen to help, only - you are wanting to assign the incoming data to the CAN Freq X.

The Link's outputs go to ground when active - so give the coil a 12v ignition switched feed on one side, and the Link's Aux output on the other side.

Glad you got to the bottom of it - turns out I was wrong then, it was a wiring issue  

Ah, worked it out, there was a bad pin on one of my AUX's.  Passed the TPS, all good thank you for the ideas !

I agree completely, Link's social media  game isn't that strong (unless you're following some drifting series), you guys need to shout more about how good your stuff is!

I'd love to see a lot more from your media team in general but have you considered creating some technical videos (not shorts) on how to set up and basic trouble shooting on functionality? I'd love to see videos on setting up/tuning launch control, anti-lag, boost control, PID tuning etc.. It would make your platform so much more accessible and take a load off Adam/Vaughan.
Sure there are plenty of learning resources out there but a lot of them are paid, or not specific to Link. Plus I think it'd be great advertising.
Haltech has done a great job with explaining tuning concepts. It would be great to see Link in this space.

There are people out there who will remote tune, but at this point, let's start with "what's wrong", or "what's not working" or "what are you trying to achieve"?
 
There's a huge wealth of information and advice available here, and part of the fun for me is the learning - and understanding how this all pieces together.
 
Don't forget and underestimate the Help available in the PC Link software - it's FANTASTIC and exceptionally detailed - the best Help I've ever seen in my time in the software industry.

There are people out there who will remote tune, but at this point, let's start with "what's wrong", or "what's not working" or "what are you trying to achieve"?
 
There's a huge wealth of information and advice available here, and part of the fun for me is the learning - and understanding how this all pieces together.
 
Don't forget and underestimate the Help available in the PC Link software - it's FANTASTIC and exceptionally detailed - the best Help I've ever seen in my time in the software industry.

Getting some more tuning time and setting the slip tables up how I like them, starting to trust it and had my first proper squirt through a 'chicane'. Hot roads, hot tyres (AR1s), pulling 1g laterally and getting the brave pills to lean on the TCS through it. 

Beats the pants off the Racelogic system and shows pretty graphically how there's no way I can go full throttle in this car through low speed corners on the road. 
Unfortunately my sensors are giving bunches of false slips at anything other than 5hz filter, so I need to design a new system for the rear end, once that's sorted 20hz input should get some finer grained slip control... 
 

No, you don't. The ECU talks directly to the sensors, and does everything you need it to.
If you think you need to set a calibration, you've set something up incorrectly, and haven't followed the instructions/Help.
In the configuration tree, you do go to Analog Inputs -> Lambda 1/2, but from the "Lambda Sensor Control" option you simply choose "Internal", and that's it, everything done.
 

Your Warmup may well be "tuned" - but it's "tuned" based on the operating temperature fuelling table - which CLL and LTFT are indicating are incorrect.
So - with CLL and LTFT Learning enabled, you are slowly correcting your underlying fuelling table.
Remember that the Warmup stuff is making modifications on top of the underlying fuel calculations from the fuel table - you've baked in errors here - so your now "tuned" warmup needs re-tuning based upon the corrected values in the main fuelling tables.

Your Warmup may well be "tuned" - but it's "tuned" based on the operating temperature fuelling table - which CLL and LTFT are indicating are incorrect.
So - with CLL and LTFT Learning enabled, you are slowly correcting your underlying fuelling table.
Remember that the Warmup stuff is making modifications on top of the underlying fuel calculations from the fuel table - you've baked in errors here - so your now "tuned" warmup needs re-tuning based upon the corrected values in the main fuelling tables.

No, you don't. The ECU talks directly to the sensors, and does everything you need it to.
If you think you need to set a calibration, you've set something up incorrectly, and haven't followed the instructions/Help.
In the configuration tree, you do go to Analog Inputs -> Lambda 1/2, but from the "Lambda Sensor Control" option you simply choose "Internal", and that's it, everything done.
 

Nevermind, I found it in PCLink Help. This is why you're so much better than Haltech

Yeah being able to select how the Disable Input functions would be great.
I had also initially hoped the Disable Input would just disable the updating of the table until that condition is met, rather than disabling the table being applied to the fuel calcuation also.