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  1. Fraser

    Clio 172 f4r

    No. I can assure you, that is not what happened. Actually i read the link helpfile that said the ecu may struggle with the OEM tooth config, so i machined it to a conventional pattern before i even did the ecu install. Rather than build it, then have to pull the engine again to machine the flywheel. Then i forgot i had set the trigger pattern to 'Sport Clio' and by sheer chance, it ran as the polarity was inverted. So now i have a rock solid idle and a correct polarity with a conventional trigger pattern.
  2. I now have this running beautifully smooth. No more hunting, spitting and stumbling. Thanks for the help. Fraser
  3. Fair point. I will try the map changes soon and let you know. Just my luck that it actually ran decent....with wrong polarity, and trigger pattern! or i'd have changed it earlier. Next time the engine is out i'll swap the flywheels back and try. why is the amplitude so much greater with the reversed polarity?
  4. Adam, I followed the help note in the Link manual which advised i had to machine off the double high tooth to a conventional 60-2 arrangement. See me do this here.. I really wanted to keep the trigger un touched so i could use the OE ECU. that's pretty annoying if i didnt have to do that as i cant swap back now without swapping the flywheel... That aside, if the trig pattern is changed to multi/missing 60-2 i should be ok? Will try today (UK) and report back Cheers, Fraser
  5. As requested. File names are self explanatory. cheers, Fraser really good kangoo.pclr trigger play inverted wiring..pclr
  6. Simon. No cam trig used. Engine ran great for months apart from a wandering idle which i was puting down to the inverted crank signal causing the ecu not trigger on the right edge. Since ive tried to get it to run 'right' ive ran into these problems. If i swap it back, it runs fine. Cheers Fraser
  7. Gents, thanks for the feedback. sorry for the delayed reply. Flat battery, frosty weather, kids...etc... just having a go just now. swapped the wires on the pickup and no RPM sig and no noticeable trigger on the pclink scope. dropped the arming threshold as low as i could and got it to register on the scope - showing a now correct polarity (attached). but i still see no RPM sig. this is a fully charged battery running at normal crank speed. for some reason there is a marked loss of power generated from the pickup when the wires are inverted. what to
  8. Can someone confirm that the attached trigger trace is the WRONG polarity? It goes negative as the tooth approaches which would tell me it's wrong, but if i swap the 2 cores over, it wont start at all. Is there a way in software to invert it or can anyone explain why it wont fire when its physically swapped? Sensor is an OE Renault crank sensor and plug. Fraser
  9. Made the changes as suggested and idle control burst into life. Thanks for the help. I doubt i would have found that one myself!
  10. Thanks for the reply. I thought it was something stupid i had missed. I will give it a try in a couple of days and let you know. Fraser
  11. Adam, See a selection of logs and map attached cheers, Fraser Log 2018-03-25 7;21;47 pm.llg idle log.llg Log 2018-03-25 7;21;16 pm.llg
  12. Thanks for the reply. Ive not selected a drive speed lockout so i assumed the road speed was not required. Surely i dont need to install road speed feedback to get it to idle?
  13. Hi folks. First time Link user here and ive had no issues tuning with it so far. Trying to polish up the details now but i'm really struggling to get the closed loop idle control working after so many attempts. 'Idle status' always shows 'speed NOT selected' The ethrottle target is always 'table 1' surely this should change to ethrottle target at some point? The ethrottle target table 1 is set to '0' at closed throttle and base idle position is '2.5' to give an idle speed of 1k rpm. No amount of increasing or reducing the error by altering the idle setpoint will make
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