ticca

Thanks for the help guys. much appreciated. I'll certainly contact that guy to see if he can offer some advice or even a base map of some sort. I was under the impression that 1 tooth per TDC would not be sufficient for Link firmware but may have confused this with advice from one of your competitors while I was researching which ECU to go for. The job may have just got a bit simpler but I'm not worried about doing this if there may be some benefit in terms of timing accuracy, knock windowing or idle control. Maybe something to consider later once the basic set up is complete? Your memory's pretty good for the car spec, think mine may be later as the specs are a bit different. having looked at some of the spare hardware I have and the specs are:- TPS: Marelli PF10 Crank/Cam Sensors : Marelli SEN 8D Ign amp: Marelli BKL 3BD (6 amps in total - 1 per coil) Injectors : Marelli IW-031 (high Impedance) - I'm expecting to have to change thee to a high flow The standard AMAL valve was replaced a while ago with an HLS stepper motor type controller which I'm guessing can't be controlled by the link so will be reverting to the standard valve. Does this give sufficiently good boost control or would it be advised to go for something more modern? Don't mind non-standard if there's a benefit as it's easily reverted to stock if necessary. Idle valve is the green top type, Originally the car had the grey top valve which was thought to be the right spec but the engine always hunted at idle. much. When I eventually found a s/h green top valve this cured the idling issues. Do you know if the diode you're referring to is the difference between grey and green versions of this valve? I'll certainly look you up next time I'm round Brands, thanks

Hi, yes I've got original wiring diagrams for car and all the specs for the sensors so will be doing as you suggestthis. My intention is to use two scrap ECUs that I have to make a link loom between the OE ECU connectors and the new link ECU. Main reason for this is that the car is quite rare and preserve its value I want to be able to revert the car back to stock as easily as possible if I sell. So no cutting into looms etc unless absolutely necessary. I'll also be using all of the original sensors and other hardware for the same reason. A setup file may help getting the thing working without too much programming of individual characteristics for sensors and actuators. The standard trigger pattern on these cars is just 3 pulses per crank revolution with a single pulse coming form each inlet cam to give the timing synchronization signal. This is not sufficient so I'm going to be getting a second hand crank pulley and getting it machined to take a 36-1 or 60-2 trigger wheel fitted. The intention is to get the same OD and axial position with this trigger wheel as the OE triggers so the original reluctance sensor will work in its original bracket (which also gives a few degrees adjustment in the bracket to help get things spot on). I'm hoping for some basic map help to get thing sup and running in terms of sensor, injector, coil setup plus basic timing and fuelling map to start from. Steep learning curve but as they say "we do these things not because they're easy but because they are hard" I notice you're in Brands Hatch, not too far from me. Do you have experience of these engines and tuning thereof, specifically the Ghibli? cheers Nick

Hi, I've recently purchased a G4+ Xtreme which is intended for my 1997 Maserati Ghibli Cup. Have you any setup information that could help with building the base map and parameters to work with the stock sensors and other hardware where possible thanks Nick