MichaelR32GTR

Perfect Thankyou

Hey guys im in the middle of doing some upgrades, getting rid of the factory 1 wire knock sensors and wiring up some Bosch 2 wire knock sensors, am I right in wiring them this way (using tefzel twin core shielded cable) knock sensor end - knock sensor signal wire and ground to each sensor ecu end - knock sensor 1 and 2 signal wire to dedicated knock sensor pins Then knock sensor grounds + shields all twisted together to sensor ground ? also I just installed a Syltech oil temp/pressure sensor, is there an existing calibration table that works with them ? thanks !

Will give that a go and report back over the weekend thanks

Ok so looking at my overrun fuel cut settings I have the following, not sure if these are part of the issue… fuel cut mode: on TP/AP threshold: 0.3% activation delay: 1.5s torque reduction/introduction time: 2.0s ignition retard: -10.0 then overrun deactivation table, deactivations rpm and engine coolant temp table, everything from -30 degrees to 140degrees has 2000rpm in each box

Yeh I have a driven and non driven wheel active I will check the overrun fuel cut settings and report back Thankyou

For a while now (forever pretty much lol) low rpm cruise like in a car park or a street etc every time I slightly get off the throttle I get bad jerking/bucking and looking at my digital dash I see ignition values vary widely when it does it. having a look in my idle ignition control settings I think these values are too high and it thinks it’s in idle while cruising causing these issues idle ignition control: on map lockout: 100kpa rpm lockout: 2500rpm (seems high) ? speedlockout: 40kmh (seems high)? TP/AP lockout: 0.4% do these rpm and speed settings seem high, should they be lower ? Any tips on what it should be car is a 32 gtr - link g4+ fury, etc

Thankyou I’l double check those settings tonight I hate that wiring connector for those Bosch 2 in 1 sensors I have a feeling it’s that if settings check out thanks for the reply

Randomly on Saturday I had my check engine light flash on the dash, hooked up the laptop to see it flashing “error code 32 - an volt 8 below error low value” An volt 8 is my Bosch water temp/coolant pressure sensor I cleared the fault code, but it kept coming back, water temp was showing accurately but coolant pressure was flickering and showing very odd values today I received my new sensor, replaced it but it’s still showing 0kpa pressure and flashing error code 32 anyone know what may be the issue, no Ecu settings have been changed since this happened, and new sensor didn’t fix the issue what does “below error low value” mean ?

I haven’t had much time to finalize tweaking afrs, but I’m headed in the right direction with the help I was given can I ask, if 4D fuel is enabled, what would happen if all the boxes are 0 and boost is increased instead of removing fuel with minus (-) values

Thanks for clearing that up would checking ignition timing with timing light be needed after the offset difference change ?

I changed the battery today and at same time changed the timing offset, over the coarse of the week I have been checking and triple checking everything Realy i did have timing belt cover off, cam sensor and cam gears to 100% make sure cam dowels were there and in the cam gears, all timing marks line up, piston on tdc with valves closed etc, to rule any movement out of the equation, amongst others things yeh I know that little prp cam gear pickup, I took a photo of it before removal and it went back on as it was, even got pics of the engine been built to confirm its in the same spot….

So after doing some reading and hearing timing could be out 360degrees i added 360 to my current timing offset of -103 and started first go how does this happen if all mechanical timing marks (cam gears intake/exhaust), and balancer all line up 100% to their timing marks, and piston 1 is at TDC and also checking with timing light was spot on I even marked my platinum racing products cam sensor with a white dot so it would go back where it was while diagnosing this past week would this need any further investigating or be a cause of concern

I will post a trigger scope and log of cranking Hopefuly later this afternoon cheers

Nah nothing on that side, double checked earths on back of head and they all good also did a cold comp test as cars been sitting for weeks and was 150psi across with the 35 gtr coil kit, each plug is the perfect length for that particular coil so very hard to get wrong but have checked

It did about a month or so then sat around since only thing I did was take turbo side off for ceramic coating

It’s a prp cam/crank trigger kit

I have a link g4+ fury ecu, and I’m not sure if it could be related to my starting issues, hoping there’s something in the software that can tell me its cranking over but can’t get it to start, all 6 spark plugs are wet with fuel when I try to crank it over, few pop and bangs in exhaust but won’t start firstly I have triple checked mechanical timing (rb26) I have been around these engines for 12 years and done this many many times, Inlet cam gear dot/mark matches backing plate timing mark, same goes with exhaust cam gear, and my balancer 0degree mark matches backing plate mark and piston at tdc. I just put a timing light on and while cranking I locked it at 0 degrees and it’s spot on, locked it at 10 degrees to double check and was spot on again i did an injector test from 1-6 and all are ticking/pulsating. did an ignition test, earthed spark plugs against the head, could hear and see all 6 zapping away has fuel pressure while priming and cranking Checked trigger data in runtime values and cam and crank trigger are working I even tried abit of start ya bastard in the intake and that didn’t work just for a bang out the exhaust i feel like I have exhausted everything but the ecu but I doubt something like that can just fail randomly any suggestions I’m all ears

Now that I have taken some fuel out using the 4D table and it’s targeting 0.77 lambda nicely should I change my afr target table to match the 0.77 afrs on boost? afr target table on boost is currently on 0.85 lambda or won’t matter and won’t make a difference and just leave as is

Working out some calculations for how much fuel I should add just a question in regards to existing values in the 4D table if in one box it currently has a value of “2.0” and I need to remove 4% of fuel, would that value now be “-2.0” which is taking away the existing 2.0 value and then another minus 2 to give -4% ? thanks !!

Thankyou !!

So I should have values in the minus at the desired areas

I should add that as I lower boost to say 33/34psi (or so) that it’s target afrs are perfect, as I raise boost from there to high 30’s it starts going super rich

Main Fuel table is TP vs RPM yes, In FUEL—> FUEL CORRECTIONS—> 4D fuel table is ON On its axis is MAP (KPA) and RPM yes your correct, table is mostly zeros except for around 6500rpm and 280, 320, 360kpa which has 1.0 in that row then 7000rpm to 9000rpm and 280,320,360kpa has 2.0 im not familiar with this table sorry, is it basically adding fuel in the rows with 1.0 and 2.0 ?

I’ve been collecting some logs and my on boost afrs are going super rich on boost on a rb26 - 2.8 stroker with 76mm precision, E85 on about 38psi boost, starts off fine around 0.78/0.77 lambda, then from 7000rpm onwards it starts going 0.75 lambda, then 0.74, 0.73, 0.72 by 8500rpm i have made some adjustments via afr target table but that didn’t change anything I’m assuming next thing to do is adjust via VE table, question is, how sensitive is the table, will removing a value of 1 say instead of 101 to 100 be a big enough change to see it slightly leaning out ?

I run the onboard lambda in my link fury So targeting 0.79 lambda and it falling down to 0.75 or 0.74 lambda is perfectly normal in regards to that, would there be any issues running that rich in the top end on e85 ? Doesn’t misfire as is