[Bosch knock sensors rb26 wiring + syltech combo sensor questions]

Perfect Thankyou 

[Bosch knock sensors rb26 wiring + syltech combo sensor questions]

Hey guys

 

im in the middle of doing some upgrades, getting rid of the factory 1 wire knock sensors and wiring up some Bosch 2 wire knock sensors,

am I right in wiring them this way (using tefzel twin core shielded cable)

knock sensor end - knock sensor signal wire and ground to each sensor 

 

ecu end - knock sensor 1 and 2 signal wire to dedicated knock sensor pins

Then knock sensor grounds + shields all twisted together to sensor ground ?

 

also I just installed a Syltech oil temp/pressure sensor, is there an existing calibration table that works with them ?

 

thanks !

[Idle ignition control settings]

Will give that a go and report back over the weekend thanks 

[Idle ignition control settings]

Ok so looking at my overrun fuel cut settings I have the following, not sure if these are part of the issue…

fuel cut mode: on

TP/AP threshold: 0.3%

activation delay: 1.5s
torque reduction/introduction time: 2.0s

ignition retard: -10.0

 

then overrun deactivation table, deactivations rpm and engine coolant temp table, everything from -30 degrees to 140degrees has 2000rpm in each box 

 

[Idle ignition control settings]

Yeh I have a driven and non driven wheel active 

 

I will check the overrun fuel cut settings and report back 

 

Thankyou 

[Idle ignition control settings]

For a while now (forever pretty much lol) low rpm cruise like in a car park or a street etc every time I slightly get off the throttle I get bad jerking/bucking and looking at my digital dash I see ignition values vary widely when it does it.

 

having a look in my idle ignition control settings I think these values are too high and it thinks it’s in idle while cruising causing these issues

 

idle ignition control: on

map lockout: 100kpa

rpm lockout: 2500rpm (seems high) ?

speedlockout: 40kmh (seems high)?

TP/AP lockout: 0.4%
 

do these rpm and speed settings seem high, should they be lower ? Any tips on what it should be 

 

car is a 32 gtr - link g4+ fury, etc

 

 

[Link g4+ error code 32 - AN V8 below error low value]

Thankyou I’l double check those settings tonight 

 

I hate that wiring connector for those Bosch 2 in 1 sensors I have a feeling it’s that if settings check out

 

thanks for the reply 

 

 

[Link g4+ error code 32 - AN V8 below error low value]

Randomly on Saturday I had my check engine light flash on the dash, hooked up the laptop to see it flashing “error code 32 - an volt 8 below error low value”

An volt 8 is my Bosch water temp/coolant pressure sensor

 

I cleared the fault code, but it kept coming back, water temp was showing accurately but coolant pressure was flickering and showing very odd values

 

today I received my new sensor, replaced it but it’s still showing 0kpa pressure and flashing error code 32 

 

anyone know what may be the issue, no Ecu settings have been changed since this happened, and new sensor didn’t fix the issue 

 

what does “below error low value” mean ?

[Way too rich on boost]

I haven’t had much time to finalize tweaking afrs, but I’m headed in the right direction with the help I was given 

 

can I ask, if 4D fuel is enabled, what would happen if all the boxes are 0 and boost is increased instead of removing fuel with minus (-) values 

[Can’t start car - anything I check through software]

Thanks for clearing that up 

 

would checking ignition timing with timing light be needed after the offset difference change ?

[Can’t start car - anything I check through software]

I changed the battery today and at same time changed the timing offset, 

 

over the coarse of the week I have been checking and triple checking everything Realy

i did have timing belt cover off, cam sensor and cam gears to 100% make sure cam dowels were there and in the cam gears,  all timing marks line up, piston on tdc with valves closed etc, to rule any movement out of the equation, amongst others things 

 

yeh I know that little prp cam gear pickup, I took a photo of it before removal and it went back on as it was, even got pics of the engine been built to confirm its in the same spot….

[Can’t start car - anything I check through software]

So after doing some reading and hearing timing could be out 360degrees

 

i added 360 to my current timing offset of -103 and started first go

 

how does this happen if all mechanical timing marks (cam gears intake/exhaust), and balancer all line up 100% to their timing marks, and  piston 1 is at TDC 

and also checking with timing light was spot on

 

I even marked my platinum racing products cam sensor with a white dot so it would go back where it was while diagnosing this past week 

 

would this need any further investigating or be a cause of concern 

[Can’t start car - anything I check through software]

I will post a trigger scope and log of cranking Hopefuly later this afternoon 

cheers

[Can’t start car - anything I check through software]

Nah nothing on that side, double checked earths on back of head and they all good

 

also did a cold comp test as cars been sitting for weeks and was 150psi across

 

with the 35 gtr coil kit, each plug is the perfect length for that particular coil so very hard to get wrong but have checked 

[Can’t start car - anything I check through software]

It did about a month or so then sat around since 

 

only thing I did was take turbo side off for ceramic coating 

 

 

[Can’t start car - anything I check through software]

It’s a prp cam/crank trigger kit 

[Can’t start car - anything I check through software]

I have a link g4+ fury ecu, and I’m not sure if it could be related to my starting issues, hoping there’s something in the software that can tell me

 

its cranking over but can’t get it to start, all 6 spark plugs are wet with fuel when I try to crank it over, few pop and bangs in exhaust but won’t start 

 

firstly I have triple checked mechanical timing (rb26) I have been around these engines for 12 years and done this many many times, Inlet cam gear dot/mark matches backing plate timing mark, same goes with exhaust cam gear, and my balancer 0degree mark matches backing plate mark and piston at tdc.

 

I just put a timing light on and while cranking I locked it at 0 degrees and it’s spot on, locked it at 10 degrees to double check and was spot on again

 

i did an injector test from 1-6 and all are ticking/pulsating.

 

did an ignition test, earthed spark plugs against the head, could hear and see all 6 zapping away 

 

has fuel pressure while priming and cranking 

 

Checked trigger data in runtime values and cam and crank trigger are working 

 

I even tried abit of start ya bastard in the intake and that didn’t work just for a bang out the exhaust

 

i feel like I have exhausted everything but the ecu but I doubt something like that can just fail randomly 

 

any suggestions I’m all ears

[Way too rich on boost]

Now that I have taken some fuel out using the 4D table and it’s targeting 0.77 lambda nicely 

 

should I change my afr target table to match the 0.77 afrs on boost?

 

afr target table on boost is currently on 0.85 lambda 

 

or won’t matter and won’t make a difference and just leave as is 

[Way too rich on boost]

Working out some calculations for how much fuel I should add 

 

just a question in regards to existing values in the 4D table 

 

if in one box it currently has a value of  “2.0” and I need to remove 4% of fuel, would that value now be “-2.0” which is taking away the existing 2.0 value and then another minus 2 to give -4% ?

 
thanks !!

 

 

[Way too rich on boost]

Thankyou !!

[Way too rich on boost]

So I should have values in the minus at the desired areas 

[Way too rich on boost]

I should add that as I lower boost to say 33/34psi (or so) that it’s target afrs are perfect, as I raise boost from there to high 30’s it starts going super rich 

[Way too rich on boost]

 

Main Fuel table is TP vs RPM yes, 

In FUEL—> FUEL CORRECTIONS—> 4D fuel table is ON

 

On its axis is MAP (KPA) and RPM

yes your correct, table is mostly zeros except for around 6500rpm and 280, 320, 360kpa which has 1.0 in that row

then 7000rpm to 9000rpm and 280,320,360kpa has 2.0

 

im not familiar with this table sorry, is it basically adding fuel in the rows with 1.0 and 2.0 ?

 

[Way too rich on boost]

I’ve been collecting some logs and my on boost afrs are going super rich on boost

 

on a rb26 - 2.8 stroker with 76mm precision, E85 on about 38psi boost, starts off fine around 0.78/0.77 lambda, then from 7000rpm onwards it starts going 0.75 lambda, then 0.74, 0.73, 0.72 by 8500rpm

 

i have made some adjustments via afr target table but that didn’t change anything 

 

I’m assuming next thing to do is adjust via VE table, question is, how sensitive  is the table, will removing a value of 1 say instead of 101 to 100 be a big enough change to see it slightly leaning out ?

[Inconsistent lambda readings between runs]

14 hours ago, Confused said:

What lambda sensor/controller do you have?

A friend had an AEM, connected via analogue, and what the ECU saw compared to what the gauge itself was displaying varied massively from one minute to the next.

Replaced it with a Link CAN Lambda, repeatable results all the time.

I run the onboard lambda in my link fury 

8 hours ago, Adamw said:

I wouldnt call 0.02lambda "so far off".  That's about as good as most tuners would even strive for.  

There are a huge amount of variables, one confused has mentioned, there is also fuel temp, charge temp, turbine temp etc.

So targeting 0.79 lambda and it falling down to 0.75 or 0.74 lambda is perfectly normal

 

in regards to that, would there be any issues running that rich in the top end on e85 ? Doesn’t misfire as is