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MichaelR32GTR

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  1. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in Link g4+ error code 32 - AN V8 below error low value   
    On every AN Volt input there is an error low and error high voltage setting, if the voltage goes above or below these error values then it is considered faulty and the user configurable error value is used in place of the measured value.  Basically a "limp home" strategy.  
    For most common sensors that have a 0.5-4.5V working range you would set the error low to about 0.1V and error high to 4.9V.  Assuming yours is set to something appropriate and you have ruled out the sensor then the remaining possibility is the wiring.  
  2. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to dx4picco in Can’t start car - anything I check through software   
    is it needed to have richer mixture when on boost? no.
    Will you get in trouble for not doing it? most probably.
    Same thing when messing with ignition angles. 
    Always use timing light when messing with physical or software triggers.
  3. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in Can’t start car - anything I check through software   
    The location of the cam tooth is the only thing that can change the timing by 360.  The trigger offset is the angular distance from TDC #1 compression stroke to the first crank tooth after that cam tooth passes its sensor.  For the offset to change by 360 it means the cam tooth or cam sensor has rotated by 180 cam degrees in relation to the cam lobes compared to the previous offset.     
  4. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to k4nnon in Can’t start car - anything I check through software   
    Any chance the coils arent firing in the correct order? If all else seems good, maybe the firing event isnt at the right time or place? Let us know if you figure it out.
  5. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to koracing in Can’t start car - anything I check through software   
    Can you take trigger scope while cranking, and pc datalog of cranking, and post the tune, scope, and log here?
  6. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in Way too rich on boost   
    If open loop lambda table is on then you are meant to tune to the target that is in the table, you if you change the target later the AFR will change automatically without retuning.  If you change the target now it will go very rich.
    But it would be best to change the target then retune so the measured lambda does match the target.
  7. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Vaughan in Way too rich on boost   
    1.02 * 0.96 = 0.9792 so to remove exactly 4% you would use a value of -2.08 (would have to be -2.1 for the 1dp available in the table) but yes -2.0 would be around a 4% reduction from +2.0
  8. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in Way too rich on boost   
    Yes, negative values in the 4D table.  "-5" in the table would remove 5% fuel.  
  9. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to rrob in Way too rich on boost   
    The 4d table should be removing fuel as the turbine back pressure rises. 
  10. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in Inconsistent lambda readings between runs   
    I wouldnt say perfectly normal, but certainly not uncommon and I see a lot worse daily.  It can take a lot of time to get the various compensations dailed in to cover all operating conditions and most dont care - as long as its safe and not misfiring...
     
        Not at all.
  11. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in Fury G4+ wideband sensor   
    No, they use the factory calibration resistor.  
  12. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in Richen up rpm at full boost   
    CLL is irrelevant.  In modeled mode your VE table represents air flow.  Your AFR or lambda target table tells the ecu how much fuel you want added to your air.  This is always in effect regardless of CLL being used or not.    
  13. Like
    MichaelR32GTR got a reaction from Ghosty033 in Bosch temp/pressure calibration table   
    Thankyou 
  14. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Ghosty033 in Bosch temp/pressure calibration table   
    ah, make a cal table and use these settings

  15. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to MagicMike in coasting in neutral idle hunt   
    I'd turn off ignition idle control. It seems to be keeping your idle stable when active. In the log and file you posted, the speed lockout is 20kmh. As soon as the speed is greater than that everything goes weird.
    Removing it could help identify other things at play.
  16. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in coasting in neutral idle hunt   
    Give us a log and I can help you.  It looks like it needed 3.5% throttle to sit on target in the last log you attached.  The stall is most likely the idle ign is too advanced so hasnt got enough torque authority to capture the stall.  
  17. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in coasting in neutral idle hunt   
    Id say it is the large variation of numbers across the top row of you E-throttle target table.  I would generally have the same number right across.
  18. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in Idle speed control - speed lockout kmh   
    I have found it varies a bit with the drivers style.   I have it set to 20kmh in my car as I tend to push in the clutch and coast up to traffic lights etc.  So I want idle control to kick in and get the idle speed correct while im coasting. 
    But in the past I have set up something similar on other cars that I have tuned and I would have the odd guy come back saying "my car stalls all the time coming up to lights".  Then I would test drive it forever and couldnt get it to happen.  I got one guy to take me for a drive one day and I found he would have the clutch out with the wheels driving the engine almost right up to the stop and only push in the clutch at the last second.  So with the ISC kicking in at say 20kmh while the engine was being driven by the wheels, the ecu would close the valve more and more trying to get the RPM down, then when the clutch went in and there was no drive acting on the engine it would instantly stall as the idle valve was too closed.  For these types of drivers the speed lockout needs to be lower - something like 10kmh.  
  19. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to plox in R32 Gtr drive by wire occasional stalling   
    I didn't see the wheel speed but that makes more sense. My gtr idles perfectly fine at 900rpm (but is all factory, no e-throttle etc.) so I wonder if the higher idle target has been set up to counter the wheel speed not working.
    Subaru on the other hand with e throttle has idle target error as Adam mentioned in 2

    and your e throttle table looks to have 2 in the top row, with a jump below 1500 in the 4 cells highlighted

     
  20. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to plox in R32 Gtr drive by wire occasional stalling   
    Log would answer this but what does it idle at and is it lumpy?
    Ignition idle control reduces timing at 1200rpm and idle control is set for 1150rpm with 100rpm deadband (idle control isn't doing anything between 1050-1250) so it could get into situation where it's reduced timing and idle control isn't doing anything to correct it (Adam may know better).
    Idle seems to be set kind of high, if you're happy with this you could try change ignition idle settings to:

    or bump up anti stall gain slightly and see what effect it has.
  21. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in R32 Gtr drive by wire occasional stalling   
    I would say the main problem is the ISC speed lockout is set to "Driven wheel speed", then under speed sources you have the driven wheel speed source set to "Average rear wheel speed", but there are no rear wheel speed sensors assigned, so the speed lockout will never work.  This means closed loop will start winding the throttle closed anytime you are in overrun, then when you push the clutch in the throttle is too closed so the RPM drops and stalls. 
    I suggest changing both driven and non-driven wheel speed source to "LF wheel".  Set ISC speed lockout to 10kmh.  A couple other changes I would suggest:
    Change idle ign control AP lock out to 0.8%.   I would typically have idle target error on the axis of the idle ign table - not engine speed.  It should work ok as is provided you never want to change idle speed. E-throttle target table will probably work better without the big change in target below 1500RPM.  I would generally have the same value right across the whole top row - unless you have an engine which is slow to return to idle then I sometimes have a smaller target above say 1500rpm.  
  22. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in Best way to enable launch control   
    Any switch gets wired to a DI.  Disable speed really needs to be experimented with - but typically you want to get the car moving before it disables, 20-80kmh would be typical depending how close to launch you want it to drop out and whether you are using driven or non driven wheel.  
  23. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in Best way to enable launch control   
    Possibly your disable was too low.  I would typically have the speed quite a bit higher than that.  A clutch switch, handbrake switch or steering wheel button are common options though - its really down to driver preference.  
  24. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in Driven wheel speed questions   
    If you only have the stock speed sensor then you should set both driven and non-driven speed sources to LF.  Its normallly set to LR in our GTR base map since it more closely resembles a rear wheel speed - but that doesnt really matter.  Launch activation should not be set to DI3 as it is going to constantly cycle between on & off.
  25. Like
    MichaelR32GTR reacted to Adamw in increasing boost   
    Add 1%DC to the whole DC table (click in the grey cell at top left corner then type "+1" enter). Then do a log and see if/how much boost changed.  Make your next adjustment based on how much it changed in the first test.
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