Purpleline
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Posts posted by Purpleline
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Tks adam. Your input are always so useful. It clear my direction fm improving the setting. I did try remove vacuum area up to -10 in 4D but it doest make much different. I removed the injectors out and i can see it is very possible as u mention its all about the injectors. Stock set has longer nozzle sit inside while my greddy mani need extra adapter made it even worst fm a shorter nozzle R35 oem. The new ev14 seems to be a bit longer which i will test again with less fuel under vacuum . Tks
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Hi all, im wondring why my MAP load tune will jump really rich like up to 8,9 when left off pedal(rb25det) This doesnt happen in other that i tune as TPS load(rb26dett). They stick within 14.7 once left off...
Is there something i missed or this is how it will be bcoz it is a MAP load fuel table?
It just too rich that almost or sometime stall the engine.....put a new set ev14 injectors in still the same
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I have both cas setup. And both working right now
The instruction indicate white wire to be - and black + trig 1
It is obviously switched. Swap the 2 pins on both setup. I manage to start just in 1 crank
See this, it referencing white wire to be ground.....
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Finally worked out. Adam,.u are right, flip the 2 pins made it work.
The instruction is not correct
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Tks Adam,
I follow exactly the same for +/- per nz and all setting. White wire to ground and black to trig 1. But i can switch it and take scope again
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Figured out it is my fault. Now it shown wave form and trig 1 active but no rpm... cant startup
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What could possible. Go wrong. I tested it again. I actually oeder 2 set. But both set in both engine act the same.
Directly meas the sensor during cranking i can see 0.3v but somehow trigger 1 and 2 both can read 0.17V. Both scope not in a wave form but irregular spike... any suggestion?
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I install same NZ but couldnt get it work.
Trig 1 shown active Scope not showing a wave form but 0.17V. No rpm.... tried both rb25 and 26 being the same result. What should 1 keep looking....
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Finally fired her up..it is the power feed too weak even itbdoes read 12V.. must be damaged somewhere. Reroute power and all working fine..tks guys
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It does show pulse but not strong enough to trigger injector.... possible harness damage somewhere... im. Going to reroute all 6 dirextly fm ecu to see..maybe the shop damaged the loom somewere caused bad ground...
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I did the same test before and also worked in others quite many time and i should able to hear the injector clicking during test..the direct power test i can also hear click fm the injector. Thats why it is so weirld.
And it does work before and i can hear clicking on all but suddently no more......
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Yes, it does. Direct powering it work Just fine.
I even tried a brand new injector to the plug for test and nothing happen
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Hi ,
My link g4+ is having problem with injector pulse. It is working fine b4. It has 12V on 1 side but just no pulse at all during injector test on all 6.
What could be the problem? Would that possible problem fm. The ecu? Cause i cant get engine start b4 as i believe it is timing issue and problem has set aside until now. Back on try test everything, nothing happen to injector. During injector test i can see around 5V......
Any idea what i can do?
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Actually, i have same problem. But i didnt try figure it yet as engine problem which i stopped. It does showup on find device so assume wiring ia good. Just no reading at all
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Im in the route setting up hks vcam for G4X bnr32 rb26. Just wonder if it is still the same way as G4+?
Already have vcam wire to AUX3 and DI4 exactly the same way as i done b4 for g4+
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Fully working now. The climate ctrl mod is a must, add 1k ohmn on pin16
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Found that there is tach signal in the climate ctrl and there is a large resistor there. Trying solder another 1k in to see what happen
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Tks guy. Figured out the tacho and. It works great. Confirmed we need
1. The 1K ohmn replace on the PCB
2. 500ohmn pullup to connect ign+ ign- this could be done by loop the resistor ends and fit dirextly on the cluster back pcb bolts. No soldering
However,.still having problem about the AC,.still not working. The AC AC2 pins ecu seems not directly control the aC clutch but fly back to climate ctrl unit and ctrl the AMGC(ac clutch). In pc link test it use high will active the clutch manually but ac request never work even an addon DI...
An idea to try resolve this?? Wouldnt the climate ctrl having same tacho sign problem??? So AC or AC1 never work unless it see tacho rmp up??
I have workshop manual on that i can email
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Hi Adam,
Finally, started her up. The timing offset weird number lead me to suspect timing problem. The cam belt is 1/3 off retarded.... no wonder it wont start. Timing belt change amd align the 3points. She start up in 1st crank.
It is so weird it does ran fine b4 my work and i never touch that after inspect cam belt considtions.....
Possible the previous shop who work on this has done something on the Vcam setup so she still able to startup...
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Hi Adman, i removed all spark plug out and have #1 with sparke plug out so engine turn fast enough to see timing.
I have an offset for -192 to get it align to 10*. Is that safe or should be accurate?
Normally rb within offsrt fm -7x to 8x.. -192 seens alot
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would the starter being too slow for timing gun to be able to capture timing? anyway, i will try that as well.
trying to look for ether start spray here but no luck. i tried use injector cleaner spray but nothing happen.
isnt that looking more alike ignition timing problem? engine has been mod b4 but unknown spec which it might be a 2.8 and possible a stroker kit. I use offset -76 for now and also tried defalut -87 with no luck.....
herewith the tune and passward PMed to u. tks
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herewith trigger scope
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swap known working CAS, no luck
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Yes, stock CAS. The battery is weak after few trial but even i jump another car to start and starter ran fast enough still no go.. i will try another CAS and make uoload another log file
Nissan hicas. Abs module
in G4+
Posted
just nissan consult cable. no need to swap back oem ecu. it read directly to HICAS ECU or even ABS ecu