Purpleline

just nissan consult cable. no need to swap back oem ecu. it read directly to HICAS ECU or even ABS ecu

Also, not shown in those pics, but you fill the back with RTV afterwards so the resistor is supported.

Yes, use the 3 evenly spaced teeth vvt mode, everything else should be much the same

As far as I know the tacho gets its signal from the ignitor in these cars.  Have you changed any of the ignition system?  I suspect AC maynot work until the control units sees RPM.

Make sure Disable Digital Input is set to off or is inactive, if that doesn't work check the knock status runtime

If you go into advanced settings for the boost cut you can narrow down the threshold which the cut activates

Yes that sensor normally uses the Hella calibration.  The resistance curve for the hella sensor is in the help file if you wanted to measure yours at a couple of points to verify it matches (ice and boiling water is normally a good reference).

It comes down to the coil as to what the needed dwell is going to be. I would assume that table is for stock coils. 
If the dwell is too short you loose spark energy. If it is too long you risk overheating the coils.
 
I would try increased dwell time and see if it improves. While keeping an eye on the coil temps.

The note at the top of each stream tells him the endianess.  Generic dash says Low byte first which is little endian.  Race tech says high byte first which is big endian.
Bit rate is user configurable but 1Mbit/s is our normal convention for these two streams.   The ECU is capable of 100K, 125K, 250K, 500K, 1M.

Many people with performance GTR's dont use the fuel pump speed controller so that means aux 1 and 2 are available.  But if you want to keep the fuel pump controller then my suggestion would be to move the AC clutch and AC request wires to aux 11 and D9 on the expansion connector so that frees up Aux 3 and DI4 for the VCam.

For anyone else looking for HKS VCam info - yes the G4+ can run this ok.  Connect the cam position sensor to any DI 1-4, set as VVT cam position, LH Inlet.  Connect the solenoid to any Aux 1-4, set as VVT solenoid LH Inlet, frequency 250Hz.
Set VVT mode to Toyota 1JZ.  Do a cam angle test (explained in help file) to get the correct offset for the digital input.  VVT PID needs to be set to custom with P=5.0, I= 0.04, D=20.

If you leave the control solenoid unplugged you will have the cams sitting at a safe position. (or just have the Aux turned off)

A base map is there to start the engine to allow it to be tuned. Which it seems did apply here ?
 
Trying to copy other peoples maps in the hope they might do something for you, is dangerous. Have the engine tuned properly by a competent person otherwise you risk damage.

Thanks buddy I’ll give it a try and yea I’m wanting to get the link wideband as soon as I can afford to  

Hi Jules,
You're thinking along the right lines, but what you want to adjust is your master fuel number. For example if you had a master fuel number of 15ms with your 320cc injectors it would go like this:
320/550 = 0.5818 (old injectors/new injectors)
0.5.818*15 = 8.7272 (ratio from above * old master fuel number)
Better to be rich than lean, so I would round up to a new master fuel number of 9ms. You will need to substitute your master fuel number into the maths above to arrive at your new master fuel number.
You definitely need to have it re-tuned properly, but this should get you a good starting point.
The master fuel number is found in PCLink under ECU Settings > Fuel > Fuel Setup > Fuel Main
Let me know if you run into any problems,
Scott

you can feed the maf value into the ecu and monitor but the ecu will not be able to use it for a load reference  
 

Have a read of this post. Seems like it works but probably not preferred
 
 

Note you will also need good calibration data for the MAF for it to be useful too.