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Adam3442

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  1. For me, the ability to get rid of the stock TPS, the stock ICV and the ability to run different maps which include different throttle maps. At a later date, I may add cruise control and some other bits. But initially they're the advantages I want.
  2. Gents, hoping you can help. I was planning to buy the Link drive by wire adapter but have subsequently heard the G4+ board in my plugin already has the capability for DBW but the pins aren't linked to the board used to take the stock wiring (plugin part). I've also heard these can be modified so these pins are reinstated and therefore DBW is available without the adapter. If so are there guides to do this? I've had the ECU for well over a year so I'm guessing the warranty is over? So by getting a professional locally (UK) to link these pin outs is that acceptable? Any help appreciated! Thanks, Adam
  3. Thanks gents, so, I sorted it, I was using an expansion loom to provide tacho out which is 5v's. I used the pull up resistor on the board and used another spare on the expansion loom to increase voltage, so there are two wires from the expansion loom driving the tacho, one is assigned as tacho, the other isn't but works perfectly. Not sure if that's right or wrong, but it works and is accurate.
  4. Thanks Richard. Is that diagram the plug on the back of the clocks? The thing that confuses me is I've done as everyone else has done yet mine doesn't work. I've replaced the signal resistor for a lower level so it can receive a lower voltage, i.e. from the ECU not the igniter. Well as per the pictures in the thread linked above. I haven't added the pull up resistor as it seems people haven't. Do the settings on the ECU look correct?
  5. Hi Gents, I need help! I followed all the info available on the web, including this: Basically, I cannot get my rev counter to work. The ECU is outputting a signal, there is continuity between the cable linking the ECU to the rev counter on the back of the cluster. The resistor is soldered and working fine, showing 1Kohm. But When ignition is switched on the needle moves a mm and thats it. The ECU was setup with a base map, but then there were boost issues, so it's not going back to the mapper until they're sorted, I'm trying to get all the niggles sorted, this being one of them. I'm fairly new to ECU setup, so please excuse me for being a complete novice. Much easier working with nuts and bolts :-) Here's a screenshot of what I have on the Link console. This may be normal, but why do I have tacho appearing under fuel pump control and Auxiliary outputs? Should it be in both places? There are settings available when clicking "Tacho" under the fuel pump control, but no settings available other than changing the designation of what it is on "Auxilliary Outputs" . Apologies if this is a total newbie question, but I've tried searching to no avail over the last couple of weeks! :-) I think that's everything, there is voltage coming from the wire from the ECU to the Tacho wire. Now I've seen it appears in two places, I'm wondering if it's wired to the wrong pin. But I didn't wire that! :-)
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