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About duncan351

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  1. With my 4 port boost valve and with multi fuel setup I have read numerous times the help file done my research as much as I can and have come to the conclusion to setup a partial closed loop boost control setup. Just wanted any additional input on my setting up before I install in the car. Is there anything you think I might be missing? E85 High boost WGDC table switched to MAP as load axis Latest.pclr
  2. After start up on cold starts the engine is getting too much fuel making for a very rough idle during the warm period Once it gets to about 140 or so it clears up. I have zero'd out the cells in the Warm up enrichment tables. It would have been nice if they could go negative basically making a ECT fuel trim but this table just doesn't have enough control. Any suggestions? Update: I just enabled the 5D fuel table and selected always on with my Axis's ECT and TP Main. From there I will pull fuel with end the ECT temps and see if this will work properly but I would think it should. Gonna try this tomorrow morning when I wake up. Am I on the right track?
  3. Oh, okay. I will keep an eye on the updates. How often does link push out updates? Is there a schedule or just have to check periodically?
  4. I have looked through the log and checked help but not seeing much info on what makes the cruise Light turn on when enabled. I have included a log. Can someone tell me what I am missing? Last Tune Save on ECU.pclr cruise ctrll.llg
  5. Sure, here it is running. good Trigger Scope Log running 2019-11-30 6;32;32 pm.llg
  6. Update: Adam, Thank you for your support. Once a part one of the teeth were broken off between taking it off and installation on the rebuild. Motor started right up. Now I know how to identify a broken tooth in the trigger scope. Thanks again for all your help. Link has to be one of the best supporting aftermarket ECU companies out there. Great support!!!!
  7. I will tear it down and check
  8. Long story short I had to pull my motor and rebuild it after spinning a rod bearing, So the motor was torn completely down and rebuild with same everything except replaced crankshaft, rods, & oil pump. Now the motor won't start. I have checked continuity on the cam sensor wiring Signal and sensor ground. which seems to me like its my trigger issue and They ohm'd out perfect they ohm'd out perfect. I have spark and fuel but spark seems to be firing 180* off all a sudden since reinstalling motor. I am including a few logs of me try to start the car. I can confirm the spark if firing 180* off by using my timing light. My offset is 200 which was perfect before. I have physically re timed the motor a couple of times just to make sure I wasn't off on my timing causing trigger errors and no difference. Any advise on what I should try next? My arming voltage was at .5 at 0 rpm's but I raised it to .7 see if that would help but it still firing 180* out while the cams are rotating and I use timing light. Trigger Scope Log 2019-11-30 10;19;17 am original arming voltage.llg last attempt trigger errors.llg Trigger Scope Log 2019-11-30 10;23;28 am .7 arming voltage trig 2.llg
  9. I just saw your post of realdash which looks a lot more more promising as it isn't limited to OBD II protocol if my understanding is correct. But it looks like I need to use my tuner cable to see all the data. I can't use the obd II port with my wfi adapter to communicate with the Fury ECU and get all the parameters real dash is capable of displaying or do both apps basically display the same thing and I'm spinning my wheels?
  10. The Pids that are actually functional through Link ECU are rather close to worthless. The only useful ones are Water temp, Oil Temp (I guess) Boost, and a few others however No actual AFR's (Instead its AFR command which is pointless) I don't have oil pressure, I would like to monitor other of my Analog inputs and many other important information. I see that the Torque App could pull in other Pids and even customize data to display in its app but Link doesn't have it available unless there is a way to assign specific parameters to different ODB Pids to display. For such a Great system user need a much better display option of gauges beside keeping a laptop hooked up or changing my Dash to accept a Tablet. Is there anything else in the works? Are there any better options than this lousy OBD II please?
  11. Thanks Adam! I did as you instructed and cruise works great. Thanks for the help you provide again!!
  12. I have an on switch and a separate off switch which I thought were momentary switches. As you can see from the log when I press the off button the "Cruise On" parameter turns off then I push the On button again and it displays on. So I need to update firmware? going to Link website to check for update I currently have the latest I believe according to the Link download website V5.6.7.3632. Did I overlook something?
  13. I have configured everything I have read in the help section to enable cruise control however it won't. Shows Active status and when I push set button the Set on the ECU displays active while pressing the button. I'm drive by wire, brake and clutch switches are inactive, Driven wheel speed is configured properly and displaying. Can you please take a look at my logs and tell me what on earth I could be doing wrong or missing. Thanks, Duron cruise test3.llg
  14. I have a Link Fury G4+ ECU and when I connect to the second external serial port while using the tuning port, to communicate to my laptop, I my laptop looses communication. the lower serial port is configured for OBD II. I have searched the help files trying to figure out why I can't use both ports at the same time.
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