duncan351

Sorry for that confusion. I would open the throttle seeing if motor needed more air during cranking to figure out if it was flooding but didn't make a difference.

I think I got it. Motor started after entering 0 in the crank hold table in those particular ECT temps. Couldn't figure out how to delete post.

I have done everything I can think of and made so many adjustment such as injector angle (helped Alot but not enough) motor tries to run but can get past that point in the cold weather. 60* or higher regardless if the ECT's are cold motor will start up no problems. I just can't get over the hump. I have attached a log of attempted start ups. I made adjustments while the log continued to record. I'm close but dang this is kicking my butt. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Mc70EbqvDjb1k1InHXTE2HR-MgF2HBM-/view?usp=drive_link

Thanks Vaughan! I was able to lower my frequency by choose 2000ppm OC output on my Dakota Digital SGIG-5C which worked perfectly. I was ignorant to the frequency. Thanks to you posting that frequency I was able to figure out what to do. Thanks again Vaughan!!

Crap!!! Thank you!! I wasn’t sure what parameters to see in my logs. That chart DI inputs doesn't look promising. DI 9 & 10 are still available however they aren’t specifying max hertz if I am looking at it correctly. Are there any options to convert this signal to be acceptable to the Fury ECU?

Hey guy, I have Tremec Mag F transmission with the typical 2 wire 17 tooth VSS. The signal goes from the sensor to the Dakota Digital SGI-5C convertor box. Then the signal is sent to the factory Nissan 240sx cluster which works perfectly. The factory wiring is setup so that the VSS signal goes through the cluster first then ECU which is originally how I had the wiring done. But since I was having this issue I spliced directly in to the signal wire bypassing the Dakota Digtial & clutser thinking that might be causing a problem with signal north of 104mph however I had no success. Pull up resistor is enable, speed is calibrated however after 104 mph the ecu displays 0 and starts over counting mph from 0 while still driving well over 100mph. The problem is this is affecting my boost by speed. This shouldn't be happening anyway. Here are a few logs. Can anyone please help with this issue? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LgwECn2IvvxMuZZxMhfVI-InsnsrPI4e/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xBxPU5CdH714_IY6auHx-SreTcru6FVQ/view?usp=drive_link

I used GP PWM function on my new cooling control. Set my frequency which is constant. Chose "Switch Logic" to Cond 1 or 2 1 Cond ECT > Sw Cond 2 There is no option for the AC output (INJ Dr# 7) nor AC Rquest (DI #8) How do you get ECU to activate fans when A/C is turned on or Compressor clutch is activated?

Coming back just to update thread. So my trigger errors turned out to be bad wiring joint in the crank signal wiring. During this time I also bought a genuine Toyota crank trigger wheel and installed it. No more errors and can rev to 9K again. No complete resolution on the PHR trigger wheel.

So I have had the problem with my fury ecu doesn't control boost appropriately. I have to make a pull through 3rd and 4th gear pushing the full WG DC table before the Boost Gear WG trim will apply. Once the BGWG controls boost it will consistently control boost per the BGWG setting until ECU is powered down. Once I start the car from parking it the ecu will run the 100% of the WG DC table. Then I have to make 3rd and 4th gear pull at 32psi before the BGWG table is applied and pulls the boost back to the settings entered in the BGGWG table. I am running a 4 port boost solenoid. Can anyone tell me why this delay is happening? Log: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RGZGDnMAUsCUZmIIHLAAYlyZPOyeUSXe/view?usp=share_link Tune: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vo4An-dYQfLr-OV2AZgPLAwZwuQcPBc9/view?usp=share_link

Thanks Adam. I have updated the links so they are accessible now. Upon closer inspection of the Power House Racing 2jz timing gear, the teeth are shaped a little differently. I'm concerned if this is a problem at the higher RPM's under the 1JZ VVti Trigger mode for the Link. Adam can you confirm if this might be a concern? Here is a link to the crank trigger wheel where it is mated to see the slight shape difference between Stock timing belt crank gear and PHR's. https://www.powerhouseracing.com/product/6908/phr-one-piece-billet-timing-belt-drive-gear-for-2jz-gte-36-2-tooth-pickup-wheel

I have been running Link Fury flawlessly until recently with no trigger errors for a little of a year now. Then one day I took car out and made a pull and couldn't do it. I have read a ton of threads where people experience the exact same issue. Not sure exactly what's going on but I seek help of what to do to resolve this problem. I have replaced my trigger wheel with a Power House Racing Billet trigger wheel instead of the stock cast one as I have gone through a few of those. The last one had an edge chip off causing the trigger issues. I replaced it. Check Trigger scope and scope looked good to me. I have checked connections at ECU and Crank sensor plug (its new plug and pins with brand new Toyota VVti crank sensor) I crank sensor voltage was reading very strong (19v) with the new PHR trigger wheel so I put a 10K resistor and the voltage was still too high even with filters turned all the way up. So I replace 10K resistor with a 20K and was able to lower my filter to level 2 and arming voltage was in the same range triggers were before all these problems started. I took car out last night and was able to make only two clean pulls. After that I have numerous scopes with the trigger errors which are occurring right near 5k rpms. I have analyzed these two scopes and they look clean to me but I'm new diagnosing trigger errors. Any suggestions? Tune: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_yKRdcBuEsbtzzF0NsYgqiJmayx2mhzP&authuser=0&usp=drive_link Clean pull scope: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DZin6pwKAKF333GKMkVMsIHR0PZJ1CyG&authuser=0&usp=drive_link Trigger Error Scope: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NGOcWKc8RYa792y6SE86csbathR-Xwha&authuser=0&usp=drive_link

SC1243 did you ever figure out your trigger error problems with your 2jz? I am experiencing very similar issues you are describing. I have Changed out trigger wheel, brand new Toyota Crank sensor, put a 10K resistor, then a 20k resistor, adjusted arming voltage and filters and still getting trigger errors at high rpms. Did have a problem for almost a year then one day I start my car and make a hit and I can 't make a clean pull anymore.

Here is my file. My current Arming voltage on trigger 1 is 3.5 from 5K to redline. I'm thinking I need to raise the arming voltage in that area and see if my trigger errors lower, correct? My cam and crank sensor wiring from the ecu to the sensors are shielded too. Update: I was able to capture the logs during the trigger errors @ 5K rpms. I see the drop in the logs but do not know how to deal with the problem. I ohm'd the crank sensor and it is still good according the Toyota manual. 2.07ohms cold and 2.72ohms hot. I believe I have a problem with one of the teeth on my trigger wheel. Its so weird the timing of this happening when I change coils but that's what I'm interpreting from the logs and its consistent on the scope. Trigger Logs: https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Uw3znMaWkXeSnUolXUh8D8YOhUbcXoz/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w0IYvfsDikkk-Ws85BEEAT1WnJp-T1UB/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o7AM1q4hzWWrbbrKFz4U5XSkyq7TNNal/view?usp=sharing

Its a VVti 2JZ with factory triggers. Adamw its toyota 2jz vvt using factory sensors. I will get the tune loaded and try to get a few trigger scopes tomorrow evening.

Please forgive me for my ignorance but how did you determine crank sensor?