jryan

That worked (are there any other known useful disabled options that still have impact hacks). On the plus side, I'm able to start tuning, on the down side my walbro 450 at 100% drains my little race car battery pretty quickly, was down quite a bit even in the time it takes to store to the ECU, good thing I wired in a fuel pump kill switch way back when... Long term, I probably need to figure something better out. Either figure out why this setup wasn't working or do the infamous jag controller setup. Thanks!

I tried setting FP Low -> Med %3 and FP Med -> High to %5, but got the same results. I just tried changing Aux 7 from "FP Speed" to "Off" and the pump didn't even prime, should that for sure work or is that a clue?

Hello, I have 2002 WRX (US), with a stock 2013 WRX motor, Link G4+ PnP ecu, ID 1000 injectors, Walbro 450 pump, the positive side of my pump is hardwired via a relay and the negative still goes through the oem fuel pump controller (but with increased ground wire size), aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a load of other possibly unrelated mods. Things appear to run fine on a flashed oem ECU (I assume that it was successfully backing off to 33 and 66% DC, but never directly verified it). When I try to run the same set up on my link ecu, it primes fine, starts up easily enough, then runs okay at high idle but as soon as it tries to settle down to a reasonable idle rpm (and supposedly down to either 33% or 66% duty cycle) the fuel pressure falls off to zero and the car stalls. If I tried a new OEM fuel pump controller, same results. Before I reluctantly give up and rewire things without the oem controller, is there anything that I'm doing wrong on the tune that could cause anything like this? Or any ideas what could cause this? Thanks in advance. * The attached tune is probably pretty far from good in general as I haven't been able to have it run long enough to do much yet and I tried changing random things to try to get it to idle before noticing the fuel pressure drop off and messed with the pressure regulator more than I should have after trying to figure this out. ColdStartFuelPressureDrop.llg V7WRXV10MotorID1000.pclr

That worked, thanks @Adamw!

It's still a work in progress, but here's the current state of things. Thank you for looking. Subaru WRX V7 G4+ Xtreme Plugin.pclr

I don't have any analog inputs assigned to Lambda 1, I followed the first 1:28 of this video closely but all I get is 0.000/Off for lambda 1. I even tried removing the NB input, still nothing. This is my first time doing anything with CAN Bus and just realize that I'm missing termination, but I think I should still be getting some values here unless something else is wrong? Any other common mistakes, steps needed or suggestions for trouble shooting? Thanks!

@Adamw How would one do the analog inputs portion of this on G4+ (wrx V7-9 plug and play)? I'm not seeing how to expose CAN inputs. Thanks.

Thank you!

To clarify, I mean which style of pins to buy for replacements, not which pins on the board.

Does anyone know what pins are used for the little can bus connector that connects to the G4+ board? I messed one up a long while back and now I'm one pin short for switching to a can bus based wideband.

Possibly a dumb question, but with a Link G4+ V7-9 plug and play ECU in an 02 WRX with a 13 WRX motor (EJ 25 w/ USDM intake AVCS), should I start with the V7 or the V10 base map?

Cool, thanks! So in conclusion, it's sounding like the reason that I wasn't seeing any decisive info on which is preferred is that any dependable switched 12v will work about the same and one should just use whichever is easier in their case.

Cool, thanks!

Seems like an obvious thing that I'm just missing, but when wiring in US 2.5L single AVCS solenoids to a WRX Link 7-9 ECU, what's the preferred source for the switched 12V? Just directly from a switched fuse, borrow the hot side of the TGV wiring or something else?