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434josh

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About 434josh

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/12/1978

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    Male
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    Texas, USA

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  1. Adam can I assume the Link BA trigger setup is only looking at one cam for signal? Which one? Mine are fully locked out with Dynomite lockouts and solenoid delete plugs. This motor is a full build with Kelford cams, springs, etc to make 1400+HP. Thanks for the advice as always.
  2. How is the cam trigger setup them with the 4 uneven posts? I would gladly run that, I just assumed it would be problematic. I am using the factory 36-1 crank wheel but with a Hall sensor.
  3. Thanks Simon. What makes the signal so weak? The post is similar in size the the cam sync I have been using for 3 years. Just curious. The OEM sensor is VR, I can do a Hall effect if needed.
  4. Hey guys, My time with the 6 liter Ford V8 has come to an end and now a 1400+ HP Barra is in the works. I'm in the US so the Barra knowledge base is limited and the Link users even more so. I have basically everything lined out except cam timing. The vct's are deleted since I have larger cams and stiff springs. The cams has multiple sensor teeth on each but I feel I only need one tooth total. Which should I keep and which can be cut off? I only need one cam for signal and I have had great luck with approx 40* before the missing tooth on the crank. Should I stay the same with the higher revving Barra?(crank has always been 70* before with cam at 40* before missing tooth on a 36-1 setup) The bara is 24-1 tooth I believe. Any advice? Read from intake or exhaust cam? Which tooth to keep?
  5. I am using an AEM brass body pressure sensor. It is the STD Bosch calibration. I have one on my regulator and one in the injector rail. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-2131-100/
  6. 434josh

    OSS with Link Extreme

    Thanks Simon, Now the second part of the question. I am setting up for a roll race this weekend. I want to setup a pushbutton speed limiter of 60mph and at the same time create an anti-lag. Transmission is an auto and I am turbo charged and using dbw. What is the best way to accomplish this? Huge timing retard with the speed limiter?
  7. My transmission has an output shaft speed sensor built into the case that I want to utilize. Not specifically to indicate speed for driving but to activate an output at a consistent time based on speed. The sensor is a 2 wire VR. I am using DI2, RR Speed, no pullup and falling to start unless suggested otherwise. Correct? The other question is, what does the second sensor wire hook to? Sensor ground or a 5v ref? I have only used VR sensors for ignition that specifically have pins for both wires so I want to make sure I don't cause any ecu issues by hooking it up incorrectly. Thanks for the help.
  8. I had a similar issue. The ground triggers from the ecu switch to ground when you key off so all items that are hot key off will see a ground signal. I fixed by adding a 125amp ignition switch triggered relay that powers my guess box. That kills the 12v to every solenoid when I key off.
  9. I have had my Link Extreme running in this 1969 Mustang for over a year now. I finally was able to get on a Dyno and do some real tuning. This thing made an effortless 800whp and 677ft lbs on only 17 psi of boost and a very conservative 19° of timing.
  10. Thanks Adam, I will certainly install the update. You mentioned using a 4d ignition table for variable torque reduction, would that be in conjunction with the gear shift control or something by itself? How would it be tied to the od shift output? As far as the between 40% tp and 85%, no reduction is required and I would just want it to not shift at all. The logic behind this is if I am cruising on the hwy, the tps will be low, definitely below 40%. If I am racing, TPS will be high, above 85%. If I am simply playing around on the highway and doing a fast accel, likely I am not wanting to push past 120 mph anyway so I would want to stay out of overdrive. 3rd gear will do 150 mph and od is capable of over 200. Downshifting from od is also where that window comes into play. If I wish to accellerate past slower traffic and push the tps past 40% I want it to kick out of od and once throttle is pulled back, shift into OD again.
  11. I know the ecu wasn't intended to do this but I am trying to make my Link Extreme control my Overdrive and TCC lockup. I think I have found a way but I am not 100% sure if I am understanding it correctly. My auto trans has a full manual valve body and a ground triggered overdrive and lockup. OD is only possible when the trans is in 3rd gear (od is 4th) and the torque converter can be locked at any time but i only wish to lock it in 3rd and 4th. This question is really just about activating overdrive based on a few conditions AND most importantly pulling power upon the shift. The overdrive band and solenoid can only handle about a 500hp shift and my setup makes closer to 1100 at full power. I need to reduce the hp/tq by about 60% for 300-500ms and them ramp it back in smoothly. Can I do this using the gearshift control feature? I have no way of inputting what gear I am in however I can set some conditions based on speed and tps that will only be possible when I am in 3rd gear anyway. I have attached a tune and if you open gear shift control, Aux 1, virtual Aux 1, and DI1 I think you will see what I am trying to accomplish. I want the ecu to OD shift the trans as I pass 55 mph with a tps of less than 39%. This shift does not need torque management so I locked out gear shift control below 40%. AT over 85%tps - full power- I do need torque management so I will tie the shift signal from Aux 1 into DI1 and the transmission to signal gear shift control to cut power for the 85% - WOT shift at 140 mph. Does this tune care for what I am trying to do? Am I understanding the gear shift control correctly? Is there a better way to accomplish this? Thanks. https://www.dropbox.com/s/t4na4crzf0amq76/Ford 363 turbo overdrive.pclr?dl=0
  12. 434josh

    Boost Control

    So I have my open loop control pretty much sport on but the closed loop isn't quite there. I am unsure what needs to be altered. I have it where it doesn't overshoot but it does hit target and oscillate nearly 20 kpa. Any suggestions? https://www.dropbox.com/s/55qq89yp0esygd7/6.1%20pass.llg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/bui52a6m6188gjy/Ford%20363plus%20ve%20smooth.pclr?dl=0
  13. Thanks Adam. I figured that was possible for a single bump. Any ability to do a creep option? I have a standalone bump box (simple stage) that has a lot of adjustability however when taking it down to a reasonable amount of bump harshness i have to hit the button several times to move just a few inches so i was hoping to be able to get a creep/super fast multiple trigger even if I have to make the Link extreme feed into the simple stage.
  14. Would there be much interest in adding specific functionality of a trans brake bump/creep? I understand there probably isn't nearly the drag racer following here compared to other platforms like Holley or Megasquirt. I figure I could build my own with a SSR and a GP PWM output setting my own parameters but it would be nice to have along with the launch control setup.
  15. Here I was able to compress it and a drop box link if the .rar isn't good. https://www.dropbox.com/s/vlrfkguu36xsjkd/drag run.llg?dl=0 drag run.rar
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