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Fikemoster

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  1. Thankyou for the response I will certainly give it a go Thanks again Mike
  2. Hi guys got a quick question regarding the S13 Speedo when not using the factory gearbox. It's my understanding from factory a s13 speed sensor sends an AC signal to the dash which converts to a DC signal to the ECU. I'm using a BMW gearbox so factory speed sensor is gone so I'm using one of the front wheel ABS sensors to replicate but unfortunately these won't provide an AC signal for the dash. Is there anyway for the Link to send the correct signal to the dash? I have done my research and I know the Dakota digital is a work around but if it can be done other ways I'd be interested. Thanks Mike
  3. Perfect thankyou for your response Adam. As helpful as always Mike
  4. Hi Adam thanks for responding. I have an g4 Xtreme pro silver box. Like Tony a few post above I am using a spare bulb on my dash/cluster that if the ECU detects low oil pressure or low fuel pressure etc it will turn the light on but I was worried that in racing conditions if oil surge was to happen the light would come on and off and may be missed. So I like the idea of it coming on and staying on for a set time or maybe until the ignition is turned off I hope this helps Mike
  5. Hi guys I thought it would be best to ask my question on this thread rather than start a new one as this answered my first question perfectly as I was looking for a solution to hold my eml light on. My secondary question is to do with the capabilities of the timer function. How long can it hold the output on on can it be done in such a way it will hold it until ignition off and then back on. Thanks for any responses or information Mike
  6. Hi Simon thanks for your response I believe the RB VCT solenoid pulls around the same amperage so I will wire it through a relay to be safe Thanks again
  7. Hi guys back with another quick question. I've got the vct wired in but I'm also worried if the ECU can handle the amps the solenoid will pull through the aux output and I can't seem to find a rating for them online. ECU is link G4 Xtreme silver box Thanks Mike
  8. Hi Adam thanks for the quick and helpful response thats perfect. My apologies I forgot to mention how I wired the kill switch but it is done exactly how you have shown in that diagram. The only other thing I thought about was when the kill switch is off the ECU won't be recieving any 14v i have double checked the power wiring diagrams and the ECU doesn't appear to need a constant 14v for memory purposes and that both power pins get connected to the main relay switch is this correct. Thanks again
  9. Hi guys I have a link G4 Xtreme (silver box unit) to comply with Motorsport standards I have installed a kill switch on the main power cable that goes from the battery to the starter motor. The car is wired so a cable then runs from the starter to a bus bar and then power is distributed from there to the relevant places nice and simple setup. But here comes my question when the kill switch is used absolutely everything will loose power including the ECU I worry this may make the ECU unhappy or cause problems if anybody could advise on the situation of I'm worrying for no reason any help would be great. Thanks in advance Mike
  10. Lovely thankyou again for your help Adam
  11. Wicked I can now put this project in to progress thanks for all the help. If I may can I ask one last question. On what will be my two trigger wheels the sync wheel on the cam and the ref on the crank. The spec sheet for the bosch sensor doesn't specify the location that the missing toot/teeth will be is this dependant on engine or how is it calculated. As you know I'll be using 36 - 2 on the ref and I was going to use a wheel with a single tooth on the cam/sync. Something like this (attached image) Thanks again sorry for the n00b questions
  12. Ok thanks for the very useful information again. You have been a great help. Im pretty much set to go now. Just need to design my brackets. One last question. On the spec sheet for the bosch sensor it gives the dimensions for trigger wheel and size and it specifies a 60 - 2 wheel. I presume the sensor will be ok reading a 36 - 2? Thanks again
  13. Hi thanks for the information I think I have narrowed it down to two sensors the other being: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/en/de/produkte/catalog_products_1_797239.php I'm leaning towards the Bosch sensor now where as before I was abit unsure as it was a three wire and I associated three wires with hall sensors but looking at the spec sheet it appears the third wire is a shield can anybody confirm that? The main reason being it seemed easier to wire in a 2 wire sensor to the link wiring than a 3 wire. I was planning on using either a 24 - 1 or 36 - 2 on the crank and a single tooth on the cam but before I committed I just wanted to make sure as im using a slightly older generation of link ecu (silver box) it could keep up with the higher tooth count Thanks again mike
  14. Ok thanks for that information. I was also recommended this sensor: http://www.nzefi.com/product/crankshaft-reluctor-trigger-sensor/ And I have delt with nzefi before and have always been happy but wanted to make sure the sensor would work with my specific plan. I saw a guy use the harmonic balancer (via cutting teeth into it) as the trigger wheel itself. But he was using the honeywell gt sensor Thanks again
  15. Hi guys I'm new to the forum but have had my link ecu for quite some time but have been in the process of wiring it in and doing some other bits and pieces to the car. I have a link g4 xtreme silver box and the engine is a rb25 s2. Right the questions. The other day I thought as I'd only like to wire the car once I would take advantage of the features and change over to a trigger setup now. I am going to build my own brackets to house the sensors and make my own trigger wheels etc but what I'd like to know well I'm after opinions on what is recommended. I know there are hall sensors which seem to be quite popular and I have been recommended over on the sau forum by a perticular member to use the Bosch motorsport hall sensor. Looking through the link manuals the wiring seems to be pre wired for a reluctor sensor and I see that on the link website the sensor you sell are reluctor sensors and various information online seemed to rate reluctor sensors as being the better choice but if I'm honest I have no idea. And myself building the brackets and triggers the choice of sensor will effect how I build these so I'd like to get it right first time. So any help will be fantastic Mike
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