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barge

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barge last won the day on September 4 2019

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  1. I believe the mini pump runs in a default mode as well. I was going to use one before I went with the volvo. I've not seen any concrete CANbus decoding for any of the electric pumps. The problem is that most of the people using them don't have the car they go in to log data streams. I did actually find a logged data stream for a Volvo but then you have to figure out what the steering pump may actually use. Does it just use speed and engine RPM? Does it use Gforce information from the ABS module? Braking Force? Hard to say without hacking into a stock vehicle.... or taking a pump, hooking it up and blasting it will a whole array of messages until it "does something". Glad I could be of help. I have pretty much the same unit but with a Cap on top. FYI I also found a connector pack on ebay for the power and signal connectors. Also note that the "engine running" signal is +12v, high, for the pump to run. And there's a couple second delay on it.
  2. What pump are you looking to use? I'm using a Volvo pump which does have a CAN connection but it runs in a default mode without CAN with just an on signal which on the stock vehicle is an alternator output. I'm using an output that's engine RPM over 500 to trigger the pump on.
  3. Could you just multiply by 10 or 100 in the math channel until they update this in the next version? So that your error would calculate as say 1 for .1 actual error.
  4. I am looking at trying out some higher frequency solenoids that'll do ~100Hz. I'll put a flywheel on that one when I install it. Do the injectors drives have a pullup to 12v? I've got an open injector drive I can use as well. Also... thanks for all the help. This forum really has been the biggest plus/selling point for Link.
  5. I've got the exhaust cam solenoids and sensors wired in and functioning. To get everything to the IO they needed to be I needed to relocate the boost solenoid and a "PS Pump" signal that I use to turn on my electric power steering pump. In relation to those 2 relocations I moved them to ignition drive 5, 6. Do i need a flywheeling diode on a boost solenoid if driven by an ignition output? If so, I believe it would be ideal to locate this at the solenoid connector, correct? I have the ign6 set to be "ON" when below 500RPM (pulled to gnd) and "OFF" when over 500 RPM (which should pull up to 12v?). This doesn't look to be working like it did when connected to AuxOut8. I'm guessing that this either doesn't have a pullup or it's not strong enough. This is just an "engine running" signal that I'm using to start the electric PS Pump. Can I add a pullup to 12v? (recommended resistance?) or should I just put it through a relay?
  6. Thank you for the clarification. The plan is to get all this installed and tested this Saturday. I'll follow-up here with results just in case someone else is trying to do the same.
  7. That was my plan so I'll proceed with that route. If i have issues I can always change it. The benefit of doing everything yourself.
  8. If that tach output wasn't required for the DCCD I'd relocate everything to 1-4 but since it'll allow me to set then I'll give 7/8 a shot. I will check resistance. I can't imagine they are much. It's the usdm 04 Subaru STI PnP in a 2004 Forester XT. I've remapped and moved a lot of IO around.
  9. Bringing this back from the dead since I actually have a quad cam AVCS jdm motor in the car now and would like to get the exhaust AVCS connected and have a couple questions/clarifications. The software will let me set Aux Output 7&8 as VVT solenoid. I'm assuming if it will let me make this selection then it will work OK on those outputs? The power for the intake avcs solenoid is connected at the ECU. RH and LH each have their own +12v connection. Any comment on if i'll have an issue using this pin to supply power to the RH and LH exhaust solenoids? The exhaust cam sensors are a 2-wire VR type. is there a preferred sensor ground source? Will i have an issue if i bring both sensor, sensor ground connections, back to where the crank sensor connects? If that's not a good idea any recommendation on pin selection?
  10. Thanks @Adamw that's the kind of information I'm looking for. I'm now understanding what you're saying about shifting during warmup. Not do to oiling or anything but due to the actual expansion of the block. I may be able to do some maths and get a good approximation of I could heat a block up and see how far the deck height moved. @Brad Burnett No it's not a "crazy" build... 400hp, 9k rpm ej22t with D25 heads. Stock cams to start since my initial power levels aren't crazy. However since it's my first real engine build and I have the winter I'm trying to make it "perfect". I'll be balancing the rods, getting the Pistons all matched, doing all the little stuff that people don't normally do. Having my cams where they should be is big. @Davidv Good idea on the MAF. I actually have a slot style MAF that I was going to use blowthrough before I went Link. Could be a useful tuning tool if nothing else if I slapped it in.... Or added some easily removable piece.
  11. I guess that could make sense why people have measured cold motors stock and found significant error. As a DIY engine builder for this project I don't suppose you could point me in the right direction as to this fudge factor. I was planning on just ensuring the oil control gear/control inside the cam gear was pushed all the way to one edge and degreeing it from there. Basically it looks like you're answering my question with... degreeing the cams would be beneficial to ensure the cams are in the correct position. If nothing else ensuring both sides are matched while cold seems like it could be beneficial.
  12. I guess my main question on the intake cams is how does "0" relate to the cam angle test value. If the cams are not both "0" at the same offsets (I know they won't be the same value but the same offset to TDC) does 0 put those cams at that offset value essentially or does it sync them to the motor at a "real" zero. Maybe the cam angle test is already taking care of this and I just am not understanding it. I've read that even factory cams have been measured 2-5 degrees off spec.
  13. I've read through the manual and I don't see this laid out but maybe i'm missing it. We have cam angle offsets to define the actual position of the cam trigger. This tells us where the cam is but what if this is incorrect. If the cam is shifted a couple degrees due to poor quality control and we set the cam offset to this position couldn't that perpetuate the error across the control scheme? The tables say that 0 in the cam tables is the fully relaxed position. What if I want one came to be -2 at "Zero" and the other to be +2? Can this be factored into the cam offset if you degree the cams manually? I'm currently in process of doing a built subaru motor and plan on taking a lot of time with eccentric idlers and adjustable exhaust cam gears to degree the cam. However with stock ecus people say degreeing the intake cam is pointless because the ECU takes care of it. I'm not sure how true this really is... but i'm wondering if there is a set way to basically use the avcs to control individual bank cam timing. If so it may make more sense to go to a quad cam avcs head.
  14. I had this same issue and pretty much asked the same question. The issue turned about to be my power wire routing which was set up just like you did. I wired from the trunk battery, to the starter, to the power distribution. I separated the feeds (you shouldn't need nearly as big a wire) over the winter when i did a bunch of wiring changes and it resolved any dropping issues during startup (I think I was also having starting issues in cold weather as well due to the same issue). FYI I'm running a tiny lithium battery in my car.
  15. barge

    Fuel pump controller

    Pins 1 and 4 are the "Supply" Pins 6 and 3 are the Pump Motor Connection So essentially 2 "power" wires in, 2 "power" wires out. Could you bypass the controller controller with 12v directly to the pump. I'm not sure. I never tried that. I think I used 12 awg for those 4 wires. See if this drawing helps. This is how it's wired in my Subaru.
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