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Captain Proton

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  1. Got the gas swapped, primed the system and started Captain Proton (my Ariel Atom 2) and within 2-3 seconds, I was getting a 80% ethanol content read. Went to the DI frequency screen and saw it oscillate between 120.2 to 120.7 Hz. Checked all the fittings again, re-installed the body panels and went for a quick drive. No studdering, popping or stumbling. Adam, thanks so much for the support and assistance, it's much appreciated. So you can see who you helped; here's a vid of me and Captain Proton on the dyno. IMG_0699.mp4
  2. Running out to the hardware store for a jiggle pump. Should I fill w/gasoline?
  3. Adam, Got it done. The tuner I used didn't set-up the screen like you have so it took me a bit to find the correct screen. The E85 sensor is on DI6 in my set-up. The Hz reading was @ 190. What does that signify? Further, the E85 sensor appears to be active since it's still reading fuel temp. I pulled the connector off while @ idle and the temp went to 62 degrees from 72 degrees when I have it plugged in. I plug it back in and the fuel temp goes back to 72 degrees, then up to 74 degrees after a couple minutes @ idle. So, I'm kinda ruling out a wiring issues. What's your thoughts?
  4. Adam, Thanks for the info, I'll check it out here in about an hour and report back.
  5. Fuel pressure is fine as far as I can see. I have an AEM FPS in-line of the fuel rail. I replaced the fuel filter w/a new WIX when I installed the E85 sensor.
  6. I will preface this by saying I am not a tuner. I had my Link Fury tuned buy another company who tuned it for E85, using a Continental/AC Delco E85 sensor so I can have a flex fuel option. This is been running well for the last year and a half (I use E85 primarily). However, a few days ago I went to get fuel and when I started the car back up it, began to buck and pop and would not go above 3000 RPM. I drove the car home, plugged in my laptop to the ECU and found that the ethanol sensor was reading 0% ethanol however the sensor was reading fuel temp. I purchased a new sensor and installed it however I'm still reading 0% ethanol. There has been NO changes to anything else in the ECU. I check for fault codes, there were none. I'm at a loss for where to look next. I have contacted the tuner but I don't expect to get a call until next week. Any help on where to look would be appreciated.
  7. I wish this was the only problem. Looks like I damaged my b loom plug, can't get it to seat correctly and the white tabs are stuck hard in the up position.
  8. While removing the supercharger and manifold from my Ariel Atom 2, I pinched the CAN 1 cable which caused my Banks iDash gauge to read gibberish. I decided to do away with the cable and just run the green and white wires from loom B on my Link Fury ECU to the iDash. My questions are now that I have elected to use CAN2 for my datastream from the Link, can I plug in my Link USB Cable that allows me to tune without having communication issues on either one of the two systems, i.e. the iDash and the PC? Next, is there any change in the ECU via the tuning software that I will need to do to have data transmitted on the CAN2 channel?
  9. Ok, got the gauge wired up using the Link cable. However I don't know which CAN port to use, 1 or 2.
  10. So, there is 120 ohms between CAN HI and CAN Lo, correct? If so, the directions on the IDash say it will work. Quote: (The iDash 1.8’s CAN bus is not terminated. If your ECU is already terminated (measures 120 ohms between CAN HI and CAN Lo) you can just wire in the iDash 1.8. If there is no resistance between CAN HI and CAN Lo you will need add in a 120 ohm resistor.)
  11. I have a Bank Engineering Dash 2 1/16 gauge that I'm using the Link cable (I purchased it and already wired it so using the Link harness pins is not an option) to read info from my Link Fury real time (IAT, fuel pressure, LAMBDA, Oil Temp etc...). I found that the gauge requires the ECU to be terminated (measuring 120 ohms between CAN HI and CAN Lo) so it can just be wired in. They are making a plug and play termination cable for this but unfortunately it is not yet available since this is a beta kit for aftermarket ECU's. So, do I need to wire in a resistor (I'm not sure how to do this or where to get the resistor if necessary) or can I wire it in?
  12. LOL, had I known that, I would have never purchased CANDash plug. Can the CANDash wire be used since I already purchased it?
  13. Which wires are those exactly? I posted a thread to find out which wires I need to attach to the Idash gauge. Idash notes the green wire is CAN lo and the white wire is CAN hi.
  14. Lol, I found it; Seem that if you have the Link USB cable plug in for tuning your can't plug in the CANBUS cable. Thanks for the assist though
  15. Hello all, This is my first post to the forum. I purchased a G4+ Fury for my 2007 Ariel Atom (2.0 LSJ supercharged) and have just about got it all wired in (no patch harness available for this application) when I came upon a Bank Engineering 2 1/16 gauge called Dash 1.8 which uses CANBUS com for displaying/toggling through different screens of data outputted by the ECU. The connection wires for the gauge include a hot, ground, CAN lo (green wire) and CAN hi (white wire). On the Link output CAN wire, which wires are used? Oh, here's a pic of my Atom (AKA Captain Proton) for inspiration, lol.
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