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Found 8 results

  1. Can anyone tell me what knock level gains they used for each cylinder of a 3sgte when using a Bosch 2-wire knock sensor? I have everything else set up, but I would feel more sure about myself if I could verify the values that I came up with. I am a beginner in the tuning aspect of things, but very competent on the electrical and programming side of things. When dialing in the knock level gains, I am not confident that I am adjusting for the noisiest rpm of the motor or if it is actual knock. So I don't want to set my gains to low that a knock event doesn't surpass the threshold. Just for reference this is a Gen 2 3sgte (I will take any information from any revision 3sgte) and the knock sensor is a Bosch Motorsports KS4-P.
  2. Dear All, This post may not be related to tuning but more towards wiring problem but I am hoping that I could get some basic guidelines as I consider myself still new in the arena and still got a lot to learn I am currently using Link G4+ Monsoon on a 3SGTE ST246 engine on my Toyota MR2. Car was running great for the past few months until recently I could not get my car to start. After I did the basic check-up I found that the fuel pressure is '0'. Therefore my focus would definitely be the fuel pump. For your information, the wiring was not done by me but I am now learning to do such wiring myself. My fuel pump is activated from a relay that uses AUX 6 of the Link G4+ Monsoon. I try to run the test using PC Link and can hear the sound of the relay clicking but I don't hear the priming sound from the fuel pump. Then I try to directly run the fuel pump from the battery (12v current) to its connector and I can hear the fuel pump priming. For that, I concur that my fuel pump is working and is not the fuel pump issue itself. Next from the connector that I have disconnected from the fuel pump, I tested it with a multimeter. What I found that there is a current supply of 8v-9v to the fuel pump when the key is ON (after finish the 2-second priming that I have set at Link G4+). When I set at PC Link Software 'test ON' for AUX 6 which is the pump, the current supply becomes 2.8v-3v along with the clicking sound. Picture attached is as per my explanation. Picture #1 8v-9v before TEST ON fuel pump at PC Link Picture #2 2.8v-3v during TEST ON fuel pump at PC Link Next, I try to test all the fuses that I can have my hands on but all the fuse seem okay. As my logic and understanding of wiring, I don't feel its the fuse as there are still current flows to the pump but it just seems that the current is low for the pump to operate. As I mentioned above the wiring was not done by me, therefore, I try my best to detect the wiring with the limited knowledge that I have. I seek the advice here to guide me on how could i further diagnose and solve this issue myself. Your advice and guidance is very much appreciated.
  3. Hello everyone, so i might be overlooking this but what's suppose to be the normal voltage to ecu for PIN 71 +14V?? My tuner told me that my the g4+ plugin was not seeing a good amount of voltage so he had made a jumper wire from the alternator positive post straight into the (B) Pin 71 thus ECU getting 14V, and had continued tuning my car like that. I eventually had to take that jumper wire off bc it would leave the ecu activated and drain the battery even after I would turn off the car bc it's straight powered from the battery. Right now I only see ~12.8V to the ecu. With car on i have 14V at the battery posts and alternator positive post to chassis ground. Battery is in front of the car, positive cable runs through the whole length of the car into the trunk where the fuse box is located. In picture provided, it's 13V at the 15A EFI fuse White/Red Wire to (Batt) Pin 61: 12.8V Black/Yellow to (+B) Pin 71: 12.8V Here's a log that I've recorded, ECU voltage varies bc of loads like lights, signals, fan, etc.. Can someone give me some advice? Log 2019-12-15 4;37;23 pm.llg
  4. Hi All, I hope someone can clarify something for me. I have a full kit ready to be built in my 91 St185, but have some confusion about connecting the Link 4 Bar map sensor. I think I should swap it with the factory one but... the factory has 2 sensor outputs and a ground (Brown) input, 1 sensor wire goes to ECU PIM pin & Boost Gauge in dash (Red-White), the other to ECU VC pin & AFM and Throttle sensor (Pink-Blue). The explanations for VC and PIM are pretty much the same: - VC: Turbo charging pressure sensor signal - PIM: Signal from the turbo sensor, also drives the boost gauge So if I can replace directly, is the VC the +5V? Or do I disconnect the factory MAP and need the expansion loom to make this work? Hop someone can clear my confusion :s With kind regards, Mystefyer
  5. pat90

    St205 engine fan

    Somebody knows If The oem ecu of Toyota switches The engine fan with 12volt? I have a Link ecu but The link doesnt switch The engine fan. We changed The fan wire to another pin(injector6) in The connector en in The ecu changed settings but with no succes, If we put 12V in The pin The fans start running, I think we must couple a relay to iT to switch. I think iT a little strange for such expensive ecu that this not works Like oem?
  6. Hi guys, I'm Mark, a new member of the Link forums. I purchased an old ST185 Celica GT-Four with a matching Link pulg in ECU of a similar era (early 1990's. Its been a steep learing curve to get the car running again, having been parked up for 13 years. I'm trying to identify which model Link unit it is and to find out if it will talk to a laptop. I have the led display hand controller but that only allows access to limited functions and is not ideal for displaying data on the fly. I have detonation problems at higher throttle settings and on boost. Tried pulling back maximum advance with minimal effect. Tried increasing master fuel a little with little effect. Perhaps its as simple as increasing fuel at higher throttle positions to allow for fuel supply as the boost increases. I'm installing a new fuel pump to make sure there are no fuel starvation issues that may be causing lean-ness. Inj / Oxy display tells me injector capacity and in theory the mixture but I'm struggling to make sense of the oxy display. It ranges 0 to numbers in the 90's but I'm not sure what the units are and what they mean. What units is this measured in (I expected 0-1.0 volt as a measure of air/fuel ratio). Any comments or assistance would be appreciated. Mark
  7. Hi all, I've just started looking into tuning with my G4+. This is my first shot at tuning and the car will almost exclusively be driven on the street. I've been slowly working my way around various functions and getting a feel for what they do and how my car responds. I've been gradually going through some of the HP Academy webinars but still feel like quite a noob! A few details about the car. - 98RON Petrol exclusively. - Walbro 255 fuel pump - CT26/GT35 hybrid (yes I know....) - 540cc Toyota injectors - 3SGE (NA) cams - 1ZZ COPs via an external converter box (Was operating this way on the factory ECU. Will be wired directly eventually) - High flow CAT I'm after any advice on the particular setup, but in particular I'm looking at some help trying to narrow down a low rpm hesitation. It feels like I have very little torque around 1000-2500 rpm. This has pretty much always been the case with the factory ECU and the stupidly oversized/restricted turbo in it, but this I think still comes down to tuning. There are probably a whole heap of things that need to be changed on the attached map. Some may have been tweaked in isolation. Also, does anyone know if the 3SGTE factory knock sensor is able to be setup in the PnP G4+? low_rpm_stutter_3.llg MR2_Modified_Tune_v3.pclr
  8. Hi Everyone, New To The Site But Have Searched For A Map And No one has ever Asked So I Thought I Would im Doing A ST202 Celica Repower and I Have A Link G4+ Storm and Before i Go To Butcher The St204 Map To Work im Wondering If Anyone has a Standard Base Map For One? Cheers In Advance
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