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Found 3 results

  1. Hi All Complete newby here! I have a G4+ plug in running my ca18det s13. Car has a ECT sensor connected / reading correctly etc. The car did not have factory electric radiator fans, was viscous. I have put fans in and want to switch them on/off via the ECU. I have the solenoid earth connected to auxiliary 6 at the moment and can switch the fans on / off with Test ON set to auxiliary 6. The issue for me, I can not for the life of me see how to set a fan control where fans come on at temp 1 and off again once temp 2 (hysteresis?). I set auxiliary 6 to be "engine fan 1, 2 or 3" and get the same results - nothing to configure other than Label, Polarity, Driver Type (see below screen shot hopefully) I tried using GP Output, but from how I understand it, I can turn the fans on (drop to earth) with cond 1, 2 with AND/OR etc but it my logic of this would be if cond 1 = turn on at >90c ECT, then as soon as temp is 90 or less it will turn off, so will come on/off non stop rather than the hysteresis way? Any help would be much appreciated, losing my mind here tonight trying to figure it out. Ryan / Stretch
  2. Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum ,is the second time that I install a link ECU, first it was to my university project which you give to us a link G4+ ATOM like sponsorship for Tyφοοn Motoracing Team. After that I buy a Monsoon for my personal car bmw e30 m42 but the wiring now is a little more difficult. My problem is the wiring of main relay because the Motronic 1.7 send a ground to pin 85 (27) of main relay which have supply from ignition switch input (56). Also the OEM ecu have an input from pin 87( main relay)(54) and a battery voltage input (26). (there is attached image) My first thought was to use one more relay to use the ignition switch(56) to give ground to 85 main relay (27). And take +12V for monsoon from pin 87 main relay(54). After that I find to forum a diagram that use a Mosfet transistor and a diode to do exactly the same job. although, I do not understand why he use diode to connect the to side of relay 85 and 86 (image ) There is other solution to my problem and what do you suggest? thanks you for your time! Peter MS
  3. Hi to all, I'm having some trouble with the relay controlled by the THUNDER ECU on my NISSAN 300ZX, they just don't pass enough voltage when they are switched on, battery is at 12.5v and the voltage output after the relays is +-10.5v. The ECU powers up but the injectors don't have enough juice to click at 10v and the ignition also doesn't power up to use a timing light. To my understanding relays just have 2 states ON or OFF. I had to do a modification to the original wiring harness as injector had battery power all the time and created a feedback on the THUNDER, so I installed a relay to the injector circuit as can be seen on the attached images red circuit inside the pink area (pink area is based on the Thunder Hold Power Low Side Wiring that I altered to suit the stock harness). When I use this same circuit on a NISTUNE ECU this modification is completely transparent and the voltage out of the relays is the same as battery give or take 0.02V and car runs perfectly, so the relays are not to blame. If I manually bypass the relays the THUNDER ECU sees 12.0V and I can perform injector tests on the software. So can the THUNDER pull a better ground to make the relays close better? I'm using a patch loom made from the A and B Loom Part # 5LB and # 0LA. Should I try a thicker wire for the "main relay+" and "main relay-" ? See attached images and thanks in advance for any help. Miguel Silva .
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