Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'trigger'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Link
    • G4+
    • G4
  • Vi-PEC
    • Vi-PEC i Series
    • ViPEC V Series
    • ViPEC Power Sport
  • General Topics
    • Guest
    • WishList
    • Engine Tuning
    • Customers Vehicles
  • Historic Products
    • Link G2 G3
    • Link G1


There are no results to display.


  • Bryan
  • 카지노 사이트, 카지노 추천«TSG79.COM
  • 2JZ Tuning Tips

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







ECU model

Serial Number

ECU model

Found 13 results

  1. Hi there all, i am facing a problem that i can not solve and i would like to know if anyone has face anything like this before. I am having the oem ecu and i am running with it for example at 1.5 bar of boost 20o advance and with the link now i am having 10o less.... and it is still doing some noise on the knock control. i have checked everything from the trigger to all the configurations... can anyone explain that please?? Thank you in advance Ted p.s. this is my map file https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u2cx1ZBQ66FVdE6DoaYb8im1vIODOZun/view?usp=sharing even that i am running less advance the car goes same or even better when i am running the oem ecu
  2. Hey guys, Just trying to fine tune my trigger setup on a 4G63T engine, late model evo 5 setup. I've purchased an aftermarket Kiggly crank trigger wheel, 12 tooth that runs off a standard mitsi hall sensor. Really nice piece of kit. My questions are directed at the cam sensor side of things. I have read that a crank sensor with a missing tooth arragement can be better, as the cam sensor tooth location is less important, but I don't really want to be hacking off a tooth from the new crank wheel. The standard mitsi Cam sensor is also a hall sensor, and the pickup has one large, and one small vane on it, as so: I will obviously be removing one of these vanes all together, but my question is which one and how much? Is there an ideal crank location for the cam pickup to be in? i.e 60 crank degrees either side of TDC. And tooth size on the modified vane can only be as small as the Hall sensor magnet? Or is tooth size irrelevant as it is only worried about leading edge? Obviously I dont have 360 degrees of choice to modifying this particular cam pickup, but I would like to put some thought into it. I.e I can flip the whole pickup 180deg if that allowed me to place a vane in a more desirable postion etc etc Cheers Ian
  3. I've been working on Subaru's basic settings for days, but I can't set the settings do the standarts for this car to make the WRX V5-6 runnig, have anyone a basic setting for wrx v5-6 that works? I think the problem is with the crankshaft sensor, he can not read the RPM, because I also get a wrong RMP on the ignition timing setting device Sorry for the bad english im from switzerland thanks ECU WRX Link 4+ Subaru Impreza RS WRX GC8 Engine EJ20
  4. Hi I am currently converting my distributor style to coil on plug and wanting to control trigger inputs through a 12 tooth crank wheel with a hall effect sensor and a single pulse cam position with a hall effect sensor. Just wanting to know what the pinout is for both trigger one and trigger 2
  5. We installed a link atom on 5VZ-FE, but we have a problem with the trigger, the car was run, but the rpm is very slow, we think the trigger not correct 100%, anybody can help us, on the other forums said the crank trigger is 36-2, but whats about the ref timing and trigger offset ?
  6. I would like to ask the meaning of Trigger filtering level. In help online is a sentence to explain it "Some trigger signals contain a large amount of high frequency interference and electrical noise,..................". Trigger arming hold is the threshold which direct variation with trigger voltage. But, i don't get the main idea of filtering level. Level 1-4 are low-pass filter or anything else?
  7. Hi, I'd like to know if it's possible to configure an hybrid CAM/CRANK trigger or if it as to be "hard coded" like the "NISSAN 360 Opto" option? I'd like to use the reset based on NISSAN 360 Opto (0º, 180º, 360º, 540º), that I already have installed on the CAM, and a 60 teeth wheel placed on the crank (one tooth is equivalent to 6º crank revolution). To my understanding and I might be wrong, the NISSAN cam trigger has 2 portions the resets with 4 slots one big that corresponds to 30º or 15 slots, the next corresponds to 22º or 11 slots, next 12º or 6 slots, and finally the smallest corresponds to 6º or 3 slots, and with this setup NISSAN doesn't need more than 1/4!? of a revolution to know where it is exactly (knowing that for each of the reset positions pulses it sees 15, 11, 6 or 3 pulses corresponding to the 0º, 180º, 360º, 540º angle position). The second portion are 360 slots corresponding to 2º, the part that is troublesome because of belt slop and or some other CAM related harmonics and it start to have erratic readings on higher RPMs even applying the highest filter possible. The change I need is to have the reset slots pulses correspond to different angle pulses (0º correspond to 5 pulses), (180º correspond to 3 pulses), (360º correspond to 2 pulses), (540º correspond to 1 pulse) of the crank wheel. I don't know how well explained this is, but hopefully someone understands where I'm getting with this. Setup: LINK G4+ THUNTHER on a NISSAN 300ZX Thanks for the help.
  8. Hi all, Have had a few link ecu’s over the years, never had any issues with them Recently we have “inherited” a skyline (92/93) with a link plugin with a few startup issues. We have done the steps for the ECCS sync, both trigger one and two are coming up as yes, the opening is coming up as 24 degrees. We then set base timing to 15 deg, put a timing light on the high induction coil (near the igniter) to get our timing mark near 15 degrees on the harmonic balancer we end up with an offset of around 95. on startup the engine will not start, it only backfires out of the exhaust and occasionally from the intake. but when the offset is down in the 40’s the engine stumbles to start then dies, but our timing is way off the mark. We are using the standard rb20 with 440cc injectors map, engine is as follows Rb25 9.5-1 compression (Ross pistons and rods) standard crank 254 duration cams-221 @.50 (vct delete) Aeroflow rising rate, brushless fuel pump spitfire coil packs (running wasted spark) iridium plugs Garret 48/54. ICS-1 wideband any help would be appreciated! Our overall timing is setup from the factory marks and the adjustable cams are the same.
  9. Speedpro

    Crank trigger wire

    Is there a preferred type of cable to be used to connect a crank trigger to the Link ECU? I know the standard connector and cable have plain wire but diagrams I have seen suggest the use of a shielded pair type of wire. Going on a high speed engine but only 6 tooth trigger wheel and using Link supplied crank and cam trigger sensors.
  10. Hi I hope someone can help me. Car is old vw beetle and i try to get more than 500bhp out of it. Had struggles past 3 years, but i really hoped to join my friends next weekend for my first dragrace. On the dyno, with load, the car is "buggering" or misfires. My "dynoguy" says there is not clean enough trigger signal, so the ecu does not now exactly were crank position is and misfires. I have tried 3 different triggerweel setups with VR sensors, and had several dyno attempts, also rerouted the shilded trigger cable so its far away from power wires. I have a friend with same type V44 and i borrowed his ecu last night, but could not hear any approvements or see any on the log. I have log files if someone could look at them. My "Dynoguy" also told me to log RPM-rate, so i did. But was this data mean? I really hoping for help. Edit: I Have attached engine map and log from yesterday. Just started it on trailer. min-ecu-Log 9-08-17 9;24;20 pm.llg Turboroadster-09-08-2017.pcl
  11. hi guys just wanted to post this to help other that may come accross it i purchased an r31 with rb30 in it and ross trigger setup it had honeywell gt101's on it at the time i rewired the car and in the process replaced the honeywells with cherry alternatives when car runs i found that i was getting no consitent trigger errors 30-40/5min period after help form adam and simon and ross (all were extremely helpfull) found that the particular pickup i have was one which ross dont make anymore due to having trigger errors you can see in the trigger scopes below a normal cycle and i was lucky enough to trigger scope right when an error occured which you can see is the large pulse inbetween the two cam pulses this is caused by the cherry sensors being sensitive enough to pickup the balencing hole inside the pickup opposite the cam pulse. (honeywell sensors as far as im awear have some sort of integrated filtering which stops this occuring) ross have very kindly said they will replace the pickup thanks again to simon and adam esspecially who made fault finding this alot easier matt
  12. ahizou

    L15A trigger

    hi i'm Japanese i have link g4 storm I am in trouble by trigger error count trigger setting   do not know use k20a preset There was a person I could not use it l15a trigger scope     I saw it. The waveform is different from the TDC of the image that was in the k20 forum The waveform is generated only on the + side Is wiring different? I want to solve it thank you
  13. I have a separate engine in my dyno and I can get it to start, not sure whats going. Harness and ECU work on the car but not on dyno engine. Both have Hall Effect Sensors, in spite of them being feed 12V trigger 2 seems to have a hard time holding up voltage. In the "Trigger Status" there is a thing called "ECCS Sync" I get a NO should I get a YES for it to work? I have attached the "trigger scope", this is during cranking as I can't get it to start.
  • Create New...