Jump to content

B18C Link G4+


Knox

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Today I tried to tune one of my fiends car which is sleeved b18c honda engine. Ecu is obd1 link plug in ecu. When I try to tune the ecu engine is strangely misfire or not misfire but bog for 1 second and continoue like afr is not ok but its ok off course. I did care and disconnet disributor socket before first calibration upload and I care for spark edge and select rising. Since engine is sleeve and have big bore pistons I wanted to use modelled fuel equeation and I entered correct engine cc and injector cc (injectors are stock for now so I wrote 240cc). First I tried with link base map injector dead times but later I tried with hondata's dead times for oem injectors because they are different. On link calibration 14v is 0.95ms and on hondata 14v is 0.49. I tried both dead times but same issue again. So I want to anyone check my calibration if I make a mistake (by the way calibration just tuned until 4000rpm because of engine break in). And also for trying we uninstall link ecu and put hondata s300 and engine runs very good but later (same day's night) distirbutor broken so may be the issue is warned distributor but I wanted to be sure. Since this plugin ecu is civic which civic's don't have b18c is there any difference for timing or injector phaseing? I already checked the calibration and I can not see and timing related setting except trigger mode "multi tooth" which they should be same for b16 and b18.

VE Honda Civic 92-95 G4+ Xtreme Plugin.pclr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A log would probably be more helpful, but I have a few suggestions:

  1. Your RPM limit is set to 4000RPM, increase this so it doesnt interfere.
  2. Your MAP limit is set to 150Kpa, increase this so it doesnt interfere.
  3. Launch control is set to always on with 10deg retard from 3000RPM, set this to off during tuning.
  4. Your base timing doesnt appear to have been checked as it is set the same as our base map which is highly unlikely with a distributor engine.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Adamw said:

A log would probably be more helpful, but I have a few suggestions:

  1. Your RPM limit is set to 4000RPM, increase this so it doesnt interfere.
  2. Your MAP limit is set to 150Kpa, increase this so it doesnt interfere.
  3. Launch control is set to always on with 10deg retard from 3000RPM, set this to off during tuning.
  4. Your base timing doesnt appear to have been checked as it is set the same as our base map which is highly unlikely with a distributor engine.

I will try first three.

this is modelled tune and when I have the issue I changed to fuel equation to “traditional” (in cass I did something wrong) and I synced the timing which is off around 3 degrees but I have the same issue. So last trial time is synced and have the same issue again. 

If there is nothing wrong with the calibration (tooth settings, distirbutor settings etc) I think that isdue is on the distributor which is gone after some hours with hondata ecu. 

Thank you for quick reply.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/14/2019 at 12:48 AM, Adamw said:

A log would probably be more helpful, but I have a few suggestions:

  1. Your RPM limit is set to 4000RPM, increase this so it doesnt interfere.
  2. Your MAP limit is set to 150Kpa, increase this so it doesnt interfere.
  3. Launch control is set to always on with 10deg retard from 3000RPM, set this to off during tuning.
  4. Your base timing doesnt appear to have been checked as it is set the same as our base map which is highly unlikely with a distributor engine.

Hello, I tried all but it did not work I have same issue again which is like a small misfire on every rpm  
randomly and when try to start engine sometimes it tries to start and stops sounds like engine timing is not ok
but engine timing is ok by the way car runs fine with hondata ecu. So I want dig it more. Link ecu is obd1 plug in version and
we are using it on a obd2a engine wire harness with conversion harness (which is good working condition) so 
is it possible to the problem is related with conversion harness or distributor (because distributor is obd2a also)?
Link's base calibration is for b16a engine and this engine is b18c so does it related with that? 
Trigger or something should be different on calibration I use? Or can it be trigger offset which is set to "97" on Link base 
calibration, I sync the distributor but I did not change the value "97" I just locked the timing to 16 degrees and adjust the 
distributor with timing light.
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need to set the trigger offset, that'll be your reason. 

 

Mine on dizzy is I think 117, cop is 279 trigger offset. 

Obviously dont take my figures to be right for you, that's just what mine is. 

At the stock offset mine would run on dizzy but not very well, get the timing light out and set the dizzy to centre, 16tdc on link and adjust the trigger offset until you see it right on the pulley 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Gregconboy158 said:

You need to set the trigger offset, that'll be your reason. 

 

Mine on dizzy is I think 117, cop is 279 trigger offset. 

Obviously dont take my figures to be right for you, that's just what mine is. 

At the stock offset mine would run on dizzy but not very well, get the timing light out and set the dizzy to centre, 16tdc on link and adjust the trigger offset until you see it right on the pulley 

Thank you for reply. I understand what you mean and deffinitely I will try and I hope issue will go. But I want ask that why it isn't enough to lock the timing to 16* from pclink and calibrate from distributor ? (Because I did that) I'm just asking to learn. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...
On 6/26/2019 at 12:10 AM, Simon said:

Moving the distributor will effect the rotor offset and you could end up with the rotor not pointing at a HT tower when its trying to fire. 

Simon, where it should be the stock dizzy while I'm calibrating the trigger offset? I'm just have too much time because of curfew here and thats why I'm asking, I'm just putting the dizzy in the middle of range and calibrate it from trigger offset.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Knox said:

Simon, where it should be the stock dizzy while I'm calibrating the trigger offset? I'm just have too much time because of curfew here and thats why I'm asking, I'm just putting the dizzy in the middle of range and calibrate it from trigger offset.

So have you changed from the T1 cam trigger now?  If you are using the distributor as a trigger but have COP then the position of the distributor and rotor phasing doesnt matter - just lock it up anywhere and adjust the trigger offset until the timing marks line up.  If you are using the distributor and single coil then clamp the distributor in the centre of the adjustment slot will usually be ok, then again use the trigger offset to give the correct timing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...