UrbKlr Posted June 27, 2019 Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 So I have an EZ30R swapped into my older Impreza chassis, using a G4+ Xtreme. I went through all the setup this morning, set timing and tried to get the car started. Initially I had no luck on modeled fuel so I decided to try traditional and it started right up. Ran smooth and no problems other then extremely rich(10-11:1 afr). When I started to trim some fuel out the car stalled and I haven't been able to get it to start again. I left it until the end of the work day, then I double checked everything, even threw a new set of plugs in thinking they were possibly fouled. I noticed that while cranking my rpm was around 200~ then would jump up to 400-500 and back down randomly. Voltage is around 11.5v during cranking. My starter ended up failing but I grabbed a trigger scope right before that so Im hoping someone can look at it or my pcl file and catch what I am missing here. Is it possible the faulty starter is screwing with things? Thanks for any assistance! mitchez30rturbo.pclr Trigger Scope Log 2019-06-26 8;16;27 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 27, 2019 Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 Triggerscope looks ok and there are no trigger errors showing in your map. Most of your settings look ok. The master fuel of 13ms suggests you have quite big injectors (~700cc)? If your injectors are stock then that master fuel will need to be quite a bit bigger. Also, just FYI, if you change to modelled fuel you will need to import a more appropriate fuel table (the one from the Monsoon map is a good starting point). Really need to do a log of a start attempt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbKlr Posted June 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 The injectors are 550ish CC, stock in the STi. I used the base injector settings from the v7 STi to get going. I'll post a log when I replace the starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbKlr Posted June 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 Here is a log of my startup attempt startupattempt.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbKlr Posted June 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 I'll add with my new starter the trigger scope looks really good. Car turns over nicely, injectors and igniters work as per the tests. Plugs were new last night, at a loss as to why this won't start up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted June 27, 2019 Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 Can you do a PC log with all parameters as would like to check on cuts, ecu hold or engine kill parameters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj Posted June 27, 2019 Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 I'd run a compression test on that engine. normal cranking speed should be ~250 and that fact that yours spends ~50% of its cranking time running at nearly double this (without the engine firing) suggests to me that some of your cylinders have compression issues. I'd also do this before you properly fire it up as if its a timing issue, it may get worse. Maybe one of the cam advance solenoids is jammed fully open? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbKlr Posted June 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 I would but my new starter stripped as well, not sure why but the aftermarket ones use plastic gears. I did watch for any cuts/holds and there are none. If I disable the injectors it cranks totally steady around 200rpm. I'll check an advance solenoid. Just kind of stumps me since it started right up and ran on my first go but never since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 Have you run all the timing light checks etc? The fact that injectors on vs off speeds up your cranking rpm suggests that its trying to fire and is just really late spark timing so its only providing a tiny bit of extra "push" to the cranking force. The fact that you keep breaking starters may also be part of this if the timing is way off and its bascially sparking against the starter motor. Hypothetically if you were around 170-180 off, your retarded-ish cranking spark angle might be very near BTC and so providing just a tiny bit of extra force, then as RPM creeps up and your timing advances a bit, its actually on the up stroke and then bad things happen to your starter. All just an educated guess though. Can you post your config file, confirm you have run the timing checks (and how you did it because these engines have pretty marginal timing marks from factory), and also confirm that you have run spark and injector tests for every cyclinder and the cylinder numbers all matched up? I'd still want to run a compression test once you fix your starter just to be safe. Also, when you ran the timing checks - did you have the injectors disabled so you got consistent engine rpm? And did you attache your timing light to the coil wiring or an HT lead between coil pack and plug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbKlr Posted June 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 I agree that would explain a lot. I've set timing using a light and checked using a spare lead between coil and plug. I marked TDC myself on the crank pulley. Injectors disabled yes. All inj/IGN tests correspond to their correct cylinders. I have a video of the car running I can post, I have changed nothing relating to timing since. https://www.instagram.com/p/BzK7YZvhDRz/?igshid=1n90zsl1q81a3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 How easily did it fire up when it was running rich? Having a better look through your log file (and not getting hung up on your cranking rpm like I was)... your ignition table says you would be at ~14* ign at cranking, which is a little higher than I would put it (0-5 ish to make the starters life easier, if it will fire like this), but its generally ok. However... your commanded ign angle is 18* spiking up to 30* which is enough to get it to kick back in the wrong circumstances. I'm just figuring out why. How big are your injectors? [edit] - 6deg of the additional timing is coming from your ECT ignition trim table. turn this off for now. [edit2] - it looks like ignition idle control is kicking in @300 rpm and deciding you are way below idle target and throwing 30deg of timing at it. try disabling this for now too, and changing the parameters for it so MAP lockout is 80-90kpa to prevent it coming on during cranking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbKlr Posted June 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 It started up easy enough, the fuel settings were different then my posted PCL at the time though. I will adjust those settings, good call! Injectors are 550cc stock STis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbKlr Posted June 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 So made some changes to reduce some variables just to get it started. Also triple checked timing, 6deg correction lines up perfect with a timing light and lead between plug and coil. It kind of coughs and seems like it wants to go but that's it so far. Attaching a full log, my pcl and a current trigger scope startupattempt2.llg mitchez30rturbo.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 Things ive found. Where did you get this map from? 4d fuel table is on. Turn this off Start with a 2d idle base table. Change this. Add timing back in at cranking and set all cells around idle to 15 as a start point. Having cranking at 15 deg will not stop it from starting. Do a injector and coil function test to make sure each cylinder is getting the right fuel/spark when needed. To me it looks like its not getting spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbKlr Posted June 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 I got a 30r base map ages ago but ended up going through and reconfiguring most of it. I guess that was something I overlooked. I made the changes and still no luck, possible my plugs are fouled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 Check each injector and spark plugs is firing using the LINK test function. Start at the basic things first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbKlr Posted June 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 I already have multiple times. The car will spit or sputter sometimes like it might go but then nothing, do my fuel settings look realistic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 I haven't played with one of those motors. If you pull a plug is it wet? Try adding more fuel if required. Are you using a wire in ECU. Reason I ask is ive seen guys wire in the cylinders in firing order instead of 1 to cylinder 1, 2 to cylinder 2 and so on. Also make sure your fuel pump is running during cranking. Check your fuel pressure is still high when cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbKlr Posted June 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 Plugs are wet yeah, I'm assuming my cylinder walls and oil aren't looking too good either. Injectors were clean and flow test prior to install so they shouldn't be leaking. Wire in ECU, all coils and injectors correspond to the correct cylinders. Pump is priming properly and running when cranking, 43.5PSI of fuel pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbKlr Posted June 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 Just thinking on the no spark thing, realizing I didn't wire in any 2uf suppressors like the help file recommended. Could that have anything to do with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 Doubt it. What coils are you using as the ECU can not drive all coils and needs an igniter. Plug will show spark but will be very small voltage and spark. How do you have them wired? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 Have you tried pulling fuel out. If your plugs are wet. Try a large adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbKlr Posted June 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 Stock COP, wired as per the diagram in the help file specifically for this engine. At this point I'm certain it must be weak spark, just to figure out why. I have played with fuel adjustment, no change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 Is it firing 360 Deg out? Add or subtract 360 from current offset. Did u lock timing when using timing light? Has motor been apart before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 When i have been chasing my tail and getting nowhere like this i do a quick sanity check to see if its spark or fuel related Dont laugh ,. but i disconnect the injectors (or turn them off ) and use fly spray in the inlet (at the throttlebody not before the intercooler etc )while cranking , it has enough hydrocarbon to run a motor without knocking bad like ether based starting fluids Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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