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7ishnz

Kawasaki ZZR1400 link install

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I am using a monsoon ecu on a turbo zzr1400 and have a couple of questions about the setup.

The motor has a 24-2 crank trigger and a cam trigger, both variable reluctance sensors. I have no way of checking the base timing as the trigger is internal. Any ideas how I can resolve this?

The injectors are 330cc but I can’t find any data for them... how should I configure them?

Does anyone have a base map I could use for basic fuel and ignition settings? Maybe from a hayabusa or similar?

Thanks.

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Couple of H2's on here and another local to me with turbo ZX10 all with Link G4+ 
I am set to 245 deg , so is the zx10,  Andys is similar but -360 from there 
Thought the 14 has the same inspection hole in the alternator cover to check timing with , need an adjustable timing light though .
If no one comes up with more specific maps for the 14 i can send you something that will likely need a lot of tweaking , but should get you running 


 

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Hi Greg,

Thanks for the info.  If you could send me something to get started with, it would be appreciated.

There is no viewing port on the stator cover on my motor.

 

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Havent forgotten you 
one of the files i was going to reference is not opening on my current Vipec or G4+ versions and i will run it through an ecu to update it  and adapt a few things to suit your setup 
EG single injectors instead of my staged 
 

Also what coil driver are you planning , if your looking at smart Coil on plug i can leave the R35 coil setup in the mix 

You will need to access the timing to setup properly , can you remove the radiator and give it an alternate coolant supply short term 

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Hi Greg,  thanks for the reply.

 I have the stock kawasaki coil-on-plug setup.   Stock 330cc injectors ( I think).   

Can't run the engine with the timing cover removed as it is a wet area and I'll get 4 ltrs of oil sprayed around the shed....   Not sure how I am going to sort that out.

Do you know if I can use one of the timers to run the turbo oil scavenge pump through an Aux output?  I need it to run 30secs, off 30 secs then repeat only when the engine is running...

Thanks.

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Early 14 with the 330 injectors ? , too small for a turbo , you will probably run out of injector before 250hp
 good option is H2 injectors,  650cc at 50 psi and guys are taking them out to replace with 1150's 
What fuel pump and regulator ? 

Stock coils will not work with the Link without a coil driver or coils with internal ignitors  , the file below is setup for smart coils , LS2  (D585) coils with short leeds, 

You will need to calibrate trigger 2  base timing , Shouldn't  loose a heap of oil at once if you remove the cover, or get a sacrificial cover and drill it with something like  25mm  to get a good window at the timing mark and stay mostly dry 

file below should get you going once base timing is set , its from my busa done in traditional fuel mode ,  with the H2 base timing , and 240cc primary injectors (i switched of the staged injectors )so it may be a little rich initially and fuel maps will be way off once you start making a few psi boost , play with the master fuel or master fuel % trim once started to get it running smooth 


you will need to setup and test all your AN inputs and outputs  etc before starting 

zx 14 starter.pclr

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Thanks Greg.

I have purchased the 4 channel ignition module... didn't know the link wouldn't work with the stock coils!

Bosch 044 fuel pump with Tomei fpr.  I will look at changing the injectors to ID 650 units...only planning on 6 psi max boost.

I will study your map...Cheers.

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Reluctor polarity question.... I have  2 screen shots ... which one shows correct polarity for the crank trigger ( 24/2)?

1  http://O2FTE6i.jpg

http://tibz8hh.jpg

 

I think the first one is correct...

There also seems to be a spike of interference on the second picture??

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Another quick question... to get this to start on petrol with 1000cc bosch injectors, what sort of fuel numbers should I see in the first few rows of the fuel table using traditional model?

I have the master fuel down to 2ms and 10 in the first few rows....  

Thanks

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#1 scope is the correct polarity.  Yes, it appears you have some ignition noise coming through, get it running first then do some more scopes to confirm.  

I would typically want numbers no smaller than about 20 in the fuel table otherwise you have less adjustment resolution.    I would expect master to be more around the 5ms ballpark but that is just a guess. 

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The noise on picture 2 appears to be from the starter motor.. I removed the power from the ecu and ignition and put the scope on the crank trigger and the same spikes were there. 

I have seen the active cell on both the fuel and ign maps jump around while attempting to start. It will start and run but not reliably.

 I am using the shielded cables provided in the link loom for the trigger circuits, wired as per the manual.

Do you any ideas how to stop this noise? Thanks.

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Its pretty hard to imagine how a starter motor could case a spike like that.  Im not confident from my experience with the 6022BE that the scope might be the culprit rather than real noise...

Does the noise always look like a sharp spike like this, even with ignition disconnected? Is it always only below zero volts like the 2nd image?  How about cranking with the spark plugs out (low compression/low starter current) - still noise on the scope?

Its not unusual for RPM to jump around a lot while starting high comp/low inertia 4 cyl engines.  Can you give us a log of it cranking/starting so I can see how bad it is.

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Files added..

crank2.llg crank3.llg

Just confirming the trigger base setting procedure... I have a 24/2 trigger, the first tooth after the gap is 125 degrees past the trigger when at TDC number 1, so offset is -125? Timing light looked OK.

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Still having trouble with this install... I can get a reasonable rpm cranking trace when the fuel pump fuse is out, with the fuel pump running, it all goes to hell.  Could the low battery voltage be part of the problem? I have wired the fuel pump as per the link wiring instructions.  Logs attached... 

 Could you give me some ideas where my issues may be?

Thanks.

Fuelpumpoff.llg Fuelpumpon.llg

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So I have attached a scope of the triggers with the fuel pump running... I did change the earth on the fuel pump before I did this test... haven't tried to start it yet, but it looks OK to me.

Can you give me an idea of what trigger threshold voltages I should be using? I often see an evenly spaced rpm spike when cranking... probably from the cam trigger?  Scope scale is 1v per division.. I am using 0.6, 1.2 v for the first two threshold settings for both triggers.

Thanks

fuelcamcrank.jpg

Fueltrace.jpg

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I would set thresholds to more like 0RPM = 0.2V, 1000RPM = 0.5V. for both trig 1 & 2.

You can see at the right hand end of your capture where the crank has slowed down due to compression the amplitude on trig 1 is only about 0.7-0.8V.  So you may sometimes not be quite meeting your existing thresholds.  You want to be a good margin below that to allow for colder weather, flat battery etc.  

qXhxHks.png

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I’ll try those numbers. 
The reduction in amplitude was as the engine was slowing after I released the start button... 

Thanks.

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