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mihalyirobert

E36link issue

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Hi guys, I'm having a weird issue, and I just want to make sure it isn't an ecu related problem. I ordered an e36link for a customer (with an e36 m52b25 automatic... he hadn't checked to make sure it was compatible before ordering, which it isn't). He decided instead of returning it to use the correct ecu header and wire it in a piggyback configuration with the standard computer, and now I have the car. The cam sensor needed to be changed to an earlier model hall (12141726590) and it is running set to cam level with pull-up on it and the crank sensor set to off as it is in piggyback configuration. As far as I can tell, the wiring is all correct, have verified the wiring, injectors, coils and all outputs all trigger correctly as expected, sensors all read as expected. The issue is that I have set the timing offset and without the engine actually running everything seems to be correct, triggers all ok and synchronised and it gets rpm correctly. The issue I'm having is that the engine barely runs and it sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders at best. When locked the timing is stable, have checked to ensure no leaks but I'm at the point I'm stumped now. Have attached a trigger scope, just wondering if anyone can shed some light on my issue or point me in the right direction? Haven't had this sort of issue before, and I'm leaning toward it being a mechanical issue.

Thanks

capture.jpg

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40 minutes ago, mihalyirobert said:

The cam sensor needed to be changed to an earlier model hall

That trigger 2 trace does not look like a hall effect signal. The crank signal looks like hall. Are you 100% sure you have hall effect sensors (3 wire) on both cam & crank? Best guess from that trigger scope is you have a VR cam sensor installed but configured in the ECU as a hall effect sensor. 

You wont be able to run it with the current sensor as cam level because the cam signal never stays high. you *might* be able to get it to run as cam pulse x1 with the right voltage thresholds set but it seems like the "good" option is to find the right cam sensor to match the cam you have in there (looks like a single tooth 180* cam-level cam trigger). swapping sensors etc might get interesting for your piggy back config though depending on what the factory ECU is still doing (ie is it sending RPM to the dash?)

Can you post your config? I want to check the settings you have for trigger2. 

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Note that cam sensor is never going to work with the cam sprocket you have.  You can see how it spikes upwards (start of cam tooth) , then about 360deg later it spikes downwards (end of cam tooth), this is because its got a "long" tooth on the cam for a hall sensor but you have fitted a VR sensor.  A VR sensor will only work with a short/sharp tooth.  You will need to fit a hall sensor to the cam.

They are easy to tell apart, the VR sensor has a little nipple that pokes out the end whereas the hall sensor has a flat end.  They also have opposite connectors.  Im pretty sure the part number for the hall is 12141740959 or 12141748400, but double check those yourself.

For now to get you going you could just set trigger 2 sync mode to "off", it will still run sequential but it wont always start up.  If it doesnt start just stop cranking for a couple of seconds and try again.  It should sync on the correct phase approx 50% of start up attempts, for the other 50% it just wont start.

Also, make sure trigger 1 is set to falling edge - since it has that weird extra rising edge in the middle of the missing tooth gap.

 

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