Jump to content
jolee

ECU for 1ZZ

Recommended Posts

hi guys i need some advice...i hv a toyota mrs zzw30 with 1zz engine....i would like to ask which ecu links is suitable for my car? should i go for the monsoon or storm? tq

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I moved your post into its own topic since it wasnt relevant to the thread you posted in.

This model is not a car I know well.  I suspect it will have a BEAN or CAN network for the dash and climate control which will make life difficult.  Can you tell us a bit about it...  Does it have electronic throttle?  Manual gearbox?  What are you trying to achieve?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I suspect you could make it work if its a manual but it may require some simple re-wiring around the AC systems (or for you to reverse engineer the BEAN signals) but it wont be plug & play. From what I know of these BEAN is just used between the dash & the ECU and is mostly used for electrical load infromation, AC status/requests, and the temp gauge.

All your important signals are still in non-canbus form on these - triggers, injectors, coils, speed, tacho etc. Pretty sure they were all cable throttle too.

Tacho is a standard PWM output from ECU -> dash

fuel level is all self contained between the gauge cluster & the tank sender

speedo is from the abs unit to the dash, then a dash output to the ECU & the power steering controller. Its a standard PWM signal that can connect to a DI.

AC clutch is all controlled by the ECU (ie it controls the mag clutch & gets input from the pressure sensor & lock sensor), but the user requests & whatever status lights it sets are over canbus (ac unit -> gauges as normal wires then canbus ->ECU). You could probably intercept the ac unit switch & light wires and connect them to the link ECU if you really wanted to, but climate control will probably break as the internal temp sensors wire back to the gauge cluster.

temp gauge is the one that will catch you up... there is only 1 sender & it goes to the ECU. that means the ECU will be happy but to keep the factory gauge working you need to output in on BEAN.

Maybe someone familiar with the BEAN outputs on the altezza plugins can confirm if these signals sound the same. Making an adaptor that would be my best guess at this point short of piggybacking the factory ECU to run the dash. BEAN is one of those not very commonly used toyota-only things so I've never seen much in the way of reverse engineering tools for it.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have recently fitted a Link G4+ Storm on my 1zz engined mk3 Mr2/Mr-S and all is good, it is wired in piggyback with the stock ecu, which is retained to run the dashboard instruments and while i didnt do the initial grafting into the harness ( bought it all as a used unit complete with engine harness and turbo kit hence the ecu upgrade) but from what ive found its basically taken over the fuel, ignition and VVT control from the stock toyota ecu and has addition of a Link Map sensor for the intake pipework so stock MAF can be discarded,  so far all works very well.

If i can help at all let me know, im still learning the Link setup but getting there now and ive pretty much got it dialled in on larger 470cc injectors running N/A at moment but Turbo install is imminent. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys 

I'm wiring a monsoon into a Toyota RunX Sport aero, with a 2zz. the first stand alone i've wired into a car.

I've connected everything from the engine up to the ecu and powered it up and I'm trying to get that dash working. 

I've really struggled to find diagrams for this car.

Is my best option for getting the dash to work piggy backing the factory ecu and splicing the Cam and crank triggers back into the factory plugs, 

any help or advice is appreciated.

On 10/30/2019 at 1:35 AM, thetyrant said:

I have recently fitted a Link G4+ Storm on my 1zz engined mk3 Mr2/Mr-S and all is good, it is wired in piggyback with the stock ecu, which is retained to run the dashboard instruments and while i didnt do the initial grafting into the harness ( bought it all as a used unit complete with engine harness and turbo kit hence the ecu upgrade) but from what ive found its basically taken over the fuel, ignition and VVT control from the stock toyota ecu and has addition of a Link Map sensor for the intake pipework so stock MAF can be discarded,  so far all works very well.

If i can help at all let me know, im still learning the Link setup but getting there now and ive pretty much got it dialled in on larger 470cc injectors running N/A at moment but Turbo install is imminent. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes i would say using the stock ecu in piggyback like mine to run dash is easiest way as the Link (and most other standalones) cant drive the dashboard on my 1zz MR2 and im guess same protocols etc on your RunX, basically on my setup the engine control was taking from stock ecu (fuel, ign, cam control etc) and other items left connected to stock ecu to run dash.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this is the 01-07 model? its essentially a corolla and the diagrams I can find for those years show the dash is still driven by 5-10 separate inputs - speed, tacho, various warning lights. celica's in the same year range did have canbus/bean (aka multiplex) but even then it looks like its mostly for the auto trans, and a bunch of stuff from the body module - park brake, door ajar lights etc. 

Without specific year/model, i'd say you'd get most of it working in a complete rip and replace job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the runx only needs the factory ecu to run the water temperature guage in the dash.  The speedo is independent of the ECU and the tacho can be driven directly by the link.  

Climate control is easiest to make work with a piggyback setup.

You'll find the attached wiring diagrams are likely very close to what you have if the car is cable throttle

corollaewdsupdr112w50.pdf corollaewdsupdr112w51.pdf corollaewdsupdr112w52.pdf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Car is 2001. and a rally car so had no AC 

Will the heater not work without the factory ecu piggy backed ?

Also is manual and cable throttle has been a big learning experience for me so far with help from lots of friends.

I will print these diagrams out tomorrow and compare them to the wiring under the dash. thanks so much for the help. 

I will post back with results tomorrow afternoon.

 

also currently the K's dont show up on the dash when i turn the key on? are these stored in the ecu or the dash?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey team. 
Today I got the dash working ! I was very excited. after pulling the dash apart and tracing cables I found that I had cut the ground for the dash while removing the engine loom. once I grounded it and switched on the key I got the RPM sweep :)

also when I pulled the dash out i found lots of shoddy work done by someone previously so ill need to clean that up too. 

I Finished up the engine bay side of the loom.

I want to set up launch control on the car too. Because its a rally car when they launch they hold in the hand brake, slip the clutch and drop the hand break to take off. should i wire launch control to the hand brake or clutch? 

I'm just going to run an after market water temp gauge as there is already another after market oil pressure gauge in the dash, any recommendations on gauges ? 

Also Should i use the 1zz Base map for cam and crank timing or 2nz? I've read something somewhere about which to use but need to find it again. Thanks so much for your help with those diagrams. Defiantly learning allot with this project.

Excuse the VVT in the photo I'm tracking down a new plug and crimps.

80980712_2607916849428323_844640589029834752_n.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For dual use road and track cars I tend to wire launch control into the handbrake (ground switched active) but I put a switch in series with it so it can be disabled and the handbrake used as standard.  Into a DI with pull up on and set to active low.  We have used the clutch pedal before too, but I find the handbrake to be more flexible with the deactivation timing.

HTH, 

Richard. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Car is used only for rally and driving between stages so yeah I like the idea of it being on a switch as well as the hand brake. 

I would have been stuffed without JMPs Diagrams  so thanks for the help.

Still need to test a bunch of things but stoked as its my first ecu wired. 

 

First start today. Tested the coils and injectors and got all the trigger information from the PC link help file which is awesome.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys hope its okay to jump on this topic 

Seeing as the 1ZZ is Similar to the 2ZZ

Ive got a G4+ Storm wired up to my Corolla 2ZZ-GE via a piggy back harness but im struggling to get it running was hoping for possibly a base map or someone to point me in the direction as where im going wrong this is my first standalone install 

Thanks 

Ryan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, RSW said:

Hi guys hope its okay to jump on this topic 

Seeing as the 1ZZ is Similar to the 2ZZ

Ive got a G4+ Storm wired up to my Corolla 2ZZ-GE via a piggy back harness but im struggling to get it running was hoping for possibly a base map or someone to point me in the direction as where im going wrong this is my first standalone install 

Thanks 

Ryan

You will be best to post what you've got so we can diagnose.  Attach a log of it cranking, a triggerscope capture when it is cranking and a copy of your tune.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Adamw said:

You will be best to post what you've got so we can diagnose.  Attach a log of it cranking, a triggerscope capture when it is cranking and a copy of your tune.

Thank you for your reply i will try get a log 

Its currently just on a the Storm file thats on PC Link with adjusted triggers ect for my engine like the help files suggest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi...the not so good news is that all these 1zz ECUs from later years run a Electronic Throttle Control System aka drive by wire and many if not all have an immobilizer on board. These are not insurmountable obstacles but they do affect the usability of this ECU for non-native applications. Also being CANbus there is no possibility of communication with the dash without a conversion.

order pcb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...