G4+ Fury Wiring questios for a Series 6 RX7 (FD)

[Pete_89t2]

Greetings,

I recently purchased a modified single turbo '93 RX7 that is running a wired-in Link G4+ Fury ECU. I'm a newbie with the Link G4+ platform, but I have experience working with and tuning Mazda rotaries on other ECU platforms, such as the AEM Infinity. To make a long story short, I'm going to need to rewire this car to incorporate some features that the prior owner didn't bother with. After doing some research on the G4+ Fury ECU, it appears that what I want to accomplish is all feasible, but I have a few newbie questions that I'm seeking guidance from the more experienced experts out here. I attached my Link Installer I/O table for folks to review against the features I'm looking to add and questions below.

As mentioned above, this FD is a modified single turbo setup. The motor is basically a stock FD 13B-REW, which is running a Cosmo (13B-RE) intake manifold with a pretty slick drive-by-wire throttle conversion using a GM 90mm DBW TB that is currently being managed by the G4+ Fury. I'd like to retain the DBW functionality in my build. Here's a list of features that I want to add:

1. Add back the FD factory electronic Oil Metering Pump (which I will supply 2-stroke oil to via a gravity feed tank and Rotary Aviation MOP adapter), and manage it with the G4+ Fury

2. Replace the factory VR Crank Angle Sensor with Full Function Engineering's Hall Trigger kit. Plan is to use the 36-1 wheel; sensor FFE uses is a Honeywell 3-wire Hall device that requires +12VDC, Ground and has a single output signal wire. Question - FFE advises in their instructions to power their sensor up with +12VDC, which on my other cars/ECUs I wired to the +12VDC power out from the main ECU relay. For the Link G+ Fury, should I be wiring this to the +8VDC output instead? If it's wired to the +12VDC output from the main relay, would that damage the Link ECU?

3. Question - Previous owner didn't provide me with any serial # or unlock codes for the Link ECU. Now I know the warranty is void since I'm not the original owner, but will I need that info after I rewire the car/ECU or for future firmware updates and the like? If the previous owner can't find that information for me, how would I acquire it if needed?

4. Another question - Since the car is running a DBW throttle, would it be possible for the G4+ Fury to manage a cruise control feature? If so, what I/O would be needed to be wired in to support it? I'm assuming it will need digital inputs for vehicle speed (tap the factory speed sensor?), brake, clutch & neutral switches, factory cruise control switches for "cruise on", "set speed" and "cancel" as a minimum. Thoughts? Is this just a stupid idea?

Thanks,

Pete

Link Installer IO Table.pdf

[neil brown]

Can answer point 3

 

unlock code is only applied once when it’s new as shipped locked

 

the tuner who did map and put a pin code in to stop people accessing map, if that is the case you won’t be able to modify map but can save map to laptop

 

you can get ecu serial number when you connect to ecu and look under info 

[Adamw]

4 hours ago, Pete_89t2 said:

1. Add back the FD factory electronic Oil Metering Pump (which I will supply 2-stroke oil to via a gravity feed tank and Rotary Aviation MOP adapter), and manage it with the G4+ Fury

You have the I/O assigned correctly in your installer table.  For basic software setup you can copy one of the S6/7/8 base maps.  Pinout info etc for OMP is in the help file page: Wiring Information > Rotary Engine Wiring > Metering Oil Pump Wiring.
And on this page there is a fairly complete article explaining how to calibrate and test it:  G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Auxiliary Outputs > Rotary Oil Pump Control.  The down side of the OMP is it does burn up 4 auxes and a valuable analog input.

 

4 hours ago, Pete_89t2 said:

2. Replace the factory VR Crank Angle Sensor with Full Function Engineering's Hall Trigger kit. Plan is to use the 36-1 wheel; sensor FFE uses is a Honeywell 3-wire Hall device that requires +12VDC, Ground and has a single output signal wire. Question - FFE advises in their instructions to power their sensor up with +12VDC, which on my other cars/ECUs I wired to the +12VDC power out from the main ECU relay. For the Link G+ Fury, should I be wiring this to the +8VDC output instead? If it's wired to the +12VDC output from the main relay, would that damage the Link ECU?

If you have the factory FD trigger with reluctor sensor I would save yourself the money and leave it alone.  The Stock trigger wheel is 36-2-2-2 so has the same 10deg resolution as a 36-1.  A reluctor sensor is more accurate than a hall effect and gives far better signal to noise ratio (noise immunity) at high RPM where it is important.  The only reason to change to hall effect is when using ECU's with poor VR conditioning circuits (AEM, Megasquirt, Microtech, old haltech etc).

FYI, if you did still want to change to FFE hall for whatever reason, the Link 8V pin is fine.  Both hall sensors that FFE sell are speced for a 5-24V power supply.

 

4 hours ago, Pete_89t2 said:

3. Question - Previous owner didn't provide me with any serial # or unlock codes for the Link ECU. Now I know the warranty is void since I'm not the original owner, but will I need that info after I rewire the car/ECU or for future firmware updates and the like? If the previous owner can't find that information for me, how would I acquire it if needed?

If the engine is running now then it has already been unlocked and is unlocked forever.  You will have no drama doing firmware updates or anything.  If it hasnt been unlocked it still shouldnt be a drama, Link can direct you to the original dealer to get the unlock or they will do it in special cases.

 

4 hours ago, Pete_89t2 said:

4. Another question - Since the car is running a DBW throttle, would it be possible for the G4+ Fury to manage a cruise control feature? If so, what I/O would be needed to be wired in to support it? I'm assuming it will need digital inputs for vehicle speed (tap the factory speed sensor?), brake, clutch & neutral switches, factory cruise control switches for "cruise on", "set speed" and "cancel" as a minimum. Thoughts? Is this just a stupid idea?

Its pretty neat to have.  

If your gearbox has a VSS sensor this would be best to use for the speed input, the FD ABS sensors will be too high in frequency to connect directly to the Fury DI's.

Minimum requirements:

As you can see, clutch and neutral switch isnt strictly required, clutch switch is def nice to have.  Also nice to have a cruise resume switch (this along with the set switch allows you to increase or decrease speed).  Since you are out of analog inputs you will have to do all of these switches as seperate digital inputs.  FYI, if you could free up an analog input you can get 2 wire "cruise control stalks" from many japanese cars that do all 4 main functions via a single analog input (Cruise on, set, resume, cancel).

[Pete_89t2]

Thanks Adam & Neil, I'm glad to hear my lack of an unlock code won't be an issue. Car is currently running, so the ECU has been unlocked before.

Regarding the cruise control, I'm pretty sure the FD has the a VSS sensor in the gearbox for speed measurement. Although the factory cruise control was chucked when the previous owner went DBW, the factory cruise control switch gear is all still there - will need to delve further into the factory wiring diagrams to figure out how Mazda used the switch hardware to implement "cruise on", "cruise set/resume & cancel" functions. 

[Pete_89t2]

14 hours ago, Adamw said:

As you can see, clutch and neutral switch isnt strictly required, clutch switch is def nice to have.  Also nice to have a cruise resume switch (this along with the set switch allows you to increase or decrease speed).  Since you are out of analog inputs you will have to do all of these switches as seperate digital inputs.  FYI, if you could free up an analog input you can get 2 wire "cruise control stalks" from many japanese cars that do all 4 main functions via a single analog input (Cruise on, set, resume, cancel).

^ I might be able to do what you suggest. below is the schematic for the factory cruise control switch. What's not shown below is there is another "cruise main" switch, which is a latching switch that routes power to the cruise control unit. I'd assume I'd route the "cruise main" switch to a digital input, to engage the cruise functions. Similarly, brake and clutch switches would be digital inputs as well to cancel cruise on demand.

As you can see, there are three control switches on the steering wheel assembly for the "set/coast", "resume/accel" and "cancel" functions. The problem might be that all of these are momentary contact switches - so if connected to a spare analog input (with a pull-up resistor wired in since this is a 2-wire switch assembly), the G4+ would see the max voltage normally (~+5VDC) when no switches are being pressed, and depending on what those resistor values are, the G4+ would see different voltages while the driver is pressing on any of those 3 switches momentarily. Could the G4+ be programmed to respond to momentary changes in an analog voltage in this manner?