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gixer

BMW M50 VANOS trigger scope check

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Hi, i have a freshly installed G4+ Fury and experince several problems, so firstly i want to know that my triggers are setted right. Thank you very much in advance for the help.

The motor is BMW M50B25 VANOS with inductive/reluctor crankshaft sensor  and hall camshaft sensor.

86695546_491487321731179_8826835242766565376_n.jpg

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Due to that cam tooth edge being right under the the point at where the ecu does a sync check (the first tooth after the gap) I think using the multitooth/missing mode is going to be problematic for you.  I dont think M50's normally have this problem but nevermind there are a couple of things we can try.

My first suggestion is to try the Chev LS7 (90 offset) trigger mode.  This mode uses a 60-2 crank and it checks for sync somewhere around the 9th tooth after the gap.  After swapping to this mode you will need to change trig 1 back to reluctor and redo the base timing.  Let me know if that doesnt work, there are a couple of other options.

CJ7m2eJ.png

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So, strange things start to occur with the modified trigger wheel. First the car wont start on Cam pulse x1 Sync mode like before and i managed to start it on Cam level setting, but more strange is how the trigger scope looks like. The scope is taken on runing engine and engine dont run good.

 

 

trig log.jpg

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Triggerscope looks ok to me.  Change back to cam pulse 1x sync mode and add or subtract 360 deg from your offset.  I suspect you are probably firing on exhaust stroke when you tried.

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I did what you told me and it works, thank you. I setted the base timing with stroboscope. Now i have different problem, i cant manage to run the pwm cooling fan which i used with the Ecumaster, before i swap it for the Link. Are all 10 aux outputs of the fury able to.run it and do they have build in pull ups?

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Aux 1-8 would be suitable and have week internal pullups. Just set the AUX to GP PWM and configure to suit. 

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Hi again, we tuned the car yesterday with good results, but i have another problem, i think temp sensors, especialy coolant one, shows much higher temp then it realy is. How to calibrate them accurately? Before i had same problem with Ecumaster and one guy boil them in oil, but he tolds me that different ecus have different resistors and may be the values will be different, but i dont know did he measured them, connected to the ecu or not.

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A quick check you can do is remove the sensor and put it in a kettle of boiling water (while still connected to ecu) and it should read near 100°C.  You can do the same in ice water to check it at 0°C.  

If they are stock BMW sensors then they should just use the "Std Bosch NTC" calibration setting.

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Can i use cal1 table, set it to ohms and type in the boxes the resitent values of the sensor? And if i can do so, which pull up to choose 1kohm or 10kohm? 

Screenshot_20200302-110413_Drive.jpg

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You can enter it but you dont need to.  That table you have there matches the "Bosch Std NTC" calibration that is already built-in.  You should use the 1K pull-up.

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But injection can be used sequentional, right? There is 8 injection drives. And what will be the dissadvantage to use wasted spark?

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9 minutes ago, gixer said:

But injection can be used sequentional, right? There is 8 injection drives. And what will be the dissadvantage to use wasted spark?

Correct.  The only disadvantage with wasted spark Vs Direct spark is you cant do individual cylinder knock control or individual cylinder ignition trims with wasted spark.  You can still do knock control or individual trims on pairs of cylinder however.

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