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Fury - Skyline GTR R32 TPS signal for ATTESSA


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Hi all, 

I recently installed a Fury G4+ in a 1989 Skyline GTR R32. Motor is up and running and all is remaining is the TPS signal to the stock Atessa controller. I have been reading online that I can share the current TPS singal directly to the Attessa ecu and I  will need to possibly output the TPS signal via the Fury AUX for the Attessa . The vehicle now runs on 2WD as the TPS signal is not connected to the Attessa ECU.

I have attached a diagram of the Attessa ecu pinouts. There are 2 TPS input signals. 

Can someone advice what is the best way to get the TPS signal to the Attessa unit for it to function?

Thanks in advance.

R32 Atessa.jpg

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You cant just share the TPS signal as the attessa ecu loads the circuit up too much and messes up the TPS signal.  One the GTR plug-in ECU's there is an op-amp circuit on board to generate this signal.  

I cant read your diagram but the relevant signal is the one that connects to pin 56 on the engine ecu.

I think you could probably do it with a GP PWM output but it will probably need a pull-up and a small resistor/capacitor filter to smooth it out into a more analog looking signal.  Which aux outputs do you have spare?

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Only aux 1-8 can do PWM so 7 or 8 may do it.  Let me have a play on the bench when I get a minute to see if I can come up with something that will work.  Chase me again if you havent heard from me by the end of the week. 

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  • 5 months later...

Hi Simon, 

I need some advice to enabling the Atessa 4WD with the Fury ecu. I have wired in the Haltech 4wd adapter to boost the TPS signal to the Atessa 4wd ecu .

With this GTR 32, we have removed the stock cluster and replaced it with a AIM dash.

I also noticed that I need to run a rpm input signal to the Atessa. I now need to push a rpm output from the Fury to the Atessa 4wd ecu. Can I use the spare  INJ 7 output a 'tacho' signal for this? 

Tacho configuration should look like this ;

 image.png.569aed7c31a12a7263dc819699f23783.png

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A normal aux output will be easier as they have a pull-up resistor built-in.  The injector drives dont have a pull-up so I suspect you will need to add an external one if you use it for the tacho signal.

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Thanks Michael. My last challenge is trying to get a vehicle speed from the wheel speed sensors.

I checked the resistance of the wheel speed sensors and they are within spec 1.3-1.4 K ohm. I connected the wheel speed sensor to a digital input and the other to the ECU sensor ground. However,  I cant seem to get a reading. I swapped them over and still no luck. I must be missing something. 

Di3 configured as below for reference.  

image.png.797e1140bbbbbf9e7dcd9d422a9289f2.png

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The factory speed input into the ECU comes from the dash cluster and is a converted version of the gearbox speed signal (at least that's how it was from factory in my stagea). If you don't have the factory dash cluster anymore you can run the gearbox speed sensor straight into the ECU but it will need a different calibration number (think I was more like 500 from memory) and you will want the pullup off as the gearbox sensor is a 2 wire VR sensor.

If you have wired up one of the abs sensors to the ECU this will most likely screw with the 4WD and ABS system as they both use the ABS wheel speed sensors.

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Hi Vaughan , As I  understand, the R32 factory speed input from gearbox drives an old style speedo cable. It is different from the R33 and R34.  

As for wheel speed, I tapped the wheels speed sensor (LR) from the connector to the 4wd Atessa ecu.  I havent been succesfuly to get a good reading.  I dont the signal is strong enough.

Currently without the cluster, there is no 'vehicle speed'. This is required for the ABS, Atessa and HiCAS. I need to find another way to get vehicle speed. I read online that the R33 speed sensor from the transmission can be installed in the R32 box. I will investigate further on this alternative too.

Any advice will be much appreciated. 

 

 

 

 

 

image.png

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The ABS sensor should work connected direct to a DI, the pull-up will need to be off.  The DI needs to see a bit over 1V so ABS sensors often wont reach that level and start working until over about 20kmh.  Did you reach that speed when testing?

But yes, the R33 VSS would be a better option as you may exceed the max frequency of the DI at high speed with an ABS sensor too.

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Regarding the TPS output sensor that Haltec offers, did you notice it Specifically says for R34? I assume its a 1:1 TPS output scale.
 https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-038001-nissan-attesa-4wd-tps-adaptor/

R32/33 seem to input to the 4WD ECU at a scale of 2/3 or so the Link manual states this?
I assume when using a scale of 1:1 then the 4WD ECU of the R32 will see MORE TPS voltage than it usually would for a given throttle angle. Unsure the effects of this, but maybe MORE is sent to the front wheels than normally would be?

What say you Link Gurus?
 

TPS out.png

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R34 GTR was compared against the display that they have, my Stagea (WGNC34 Series 1 wih RB25DE S2 motor and auto box, Grey Plug ECU but not a NEO) had a 1:1, if you want to be sure for a particular car would be best to check with the factory computer and a multimeter with the engine off. I think I may have heard that there is a difference between auto and manual so any additional information to add to the manual would be helpful.

using 2:3 instead of a 1:1 on a 1:1 car will result in a lower tps signal which should theoretically mean less power to the front wheels but the factory accelerometer/s signal might result in 50:50 in that situation anyway.

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Yup exactly, except when using a 1:1  converter when the 4wd Ecu expects 2:3 results in MORE TPS voltage...

ill measure with a multimeter. link guys know else they wouldn’t have made the dip switch, I’m waiting for their guru input. :)

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