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434josh

Link Extreme on a Barra swap

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Hey guys, 

My time with the 6 liter Ford V8 has come to an end and now a 1400+ HP Barra is in the works. I'm in the US so the Barra knowledge base is limited and the Link users even more so. 

I have basically everything lined out except cam timing. The vct's are deleted since I have larger cams and stiff springs. The cams has multiple sensor teeth on each but I feel I only need one tooth total. Which should I keep and which can be cut off? I only need one cam for signal and I have had great luck with approx 40* before the missing tooth on the crank. Should I stay the same with the higher revving Barra?(crank has always been 70* before with cam at 40* before missing tooth on a 36-1 setup)

The bara is 24-1 tooth I believe. 

Any advice? Read from intake or exhaust cam? Which tooth to keep?

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Single tooth would work and location is not critical just avoid any happening at same time as gap on crank.

Or can just leave stock and use the intake cam. 

One bit of advice is the signal strength on the CAM sensors is very poor and I would suggest closing the sensor to tooth gap as tight as you can. 

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Thanks Simon. What makes the signal so weak? The post is similar in size the the cam sync I have been using for 3 years. Just curious. 

The OEM sensor is VR, I can do a Hall effect if needed. 

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Likely either the sensor itself, the gap is a bit big or the tooth material. But generally running a close gap is enough.

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Why dont you just leave the factory trigger system in place?  It is 36-1 on the crank.  Due to the low voltage on the cam sensor the Ford BA trigger mode ignores the cam sensor during cranking and starts up in wasted spark/batch fire so you will potentially get faster start-up using the factory system.   You then dont need to mess with anything and I dont see any negative.

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19 hours ago, Adamw said:

Why dont you just leave the factory trigger system in place?  It is 36-1 on the crank.  Due to the low voltage on the cam sensor the Ford BA trigger mode ignores the cam sensor during cranking and starts up in wasted spark/batch fire so you will potentially get faster start-up using the factory system.   You then dont need to mess with anything and I dont see any negative.

How is the cam trigger setup them with the 4 uneven posts? I would gladly run that, I just assumed it would be problematic. 

I am using the factory 36-1 crank wheel but with a Hall sensor. 

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19 hours ago, 434josh said:

How is the cam trigger setup them with the 4 uneven posts? I would gladly run that, I just assumed it would be problematic. 

Just set the trigger mode to "Ford BA XR6 VTC".  

The Thunder and Fury base maps are from Links barra test car so will be a reasonable starting point for many settings.

 

19 hours ago, 434josh said:

I am using the factory 36-1 crank wheel but with a Hall sensor. 

Be careful with that, hall sensors can be pretty fussy with tooth design and many reluctor wheel designs arent ideal for hall sensors.  I have never seen a barra one so I dont know how relevant this comment is but make sure you keep an eye on it initially once it is running.

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On 3/11/2020 at 4:04 AM, Adamw said:

Just set the trigger mode to "Ford BA XR6 VTC".  

The Thunder and Fury base maps are from Links barra test car so will be a reasonable starting point for many settings.

 

Be careful with that, hall sensors can be pretty fussy with tooth design and many reluctor wheel designs arent ideal for hall sensors.  I have never seen a barra one so I dont know how relevant this comment is but make sure you keep an eye on it initially once it is running.

Adam can I assume the Link BA trigger setup is only looking at one cam for signal? Which one? 

Mine are fully locked out with Dynomite lockouts and solenoid delete plugs. This motor is a full build with Kelford cams, springs, etc to make 1400+HP. 

Thanks for the advice as always. 

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