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Link fury ecu hold power issues


MichaelR32GTR

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Hello

 

i am running a link g4+ fury in my r32 gtr,

 

I have issues where if u turn ignition on and then off, reds on dash stay on as it’s holding power, funny thing is if I start the car and go for a drive and turn it off then back on it won’t do it when it’s hot, only when cold...

 

anyways my ecu hold power is on “injector 7” channel

 

i have read briefly I might need a diode of some sort 

 

if anyone can help me what needs to be done exactly would be much appreciated as always !

 

 

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 Not sure honestly 

I know with my previous Vioec V88 I never had an issue with this 

 

now got a custom milspec plug and play harness from r32 gtr to Fury ecu

 

the plug and play wiring harness pin out diagram says: B connector, Pin 2 - injector 7 “ecu relay control” and in my ecu software injector 7 is ecu hold power

which connects to factory ecu engine harness plug Pin 16 - eccs relay

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Hmm, thats not going to work with a Fury.  It looks like the coil of the ECCS relay and the Ign coil relay in an R32GTR are live all the time.  The Fury has P&H injector drives so when the ignition switches off, the power will back feed through the injector drive and keep the ecu powered up or partially powered up.  Usually you need an ignition drive to control a relay that is live all the time as they cant back feed.  I suspect maybe your V88 used an ign drive instead?  Unfortunately you have no spare ign drives...

I think to solve this you are going to have to add another relay in somewhere to control "pin 16" to the ECCS relay rather than the ecu control it.

 

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Hmmm ok thanks 

 

that’s correct the Vipec v88 was using a spare ignition drive

 

about half way down, Scott said to do what you recommended and use an additional relay, 

so we are on the right track !

 

but I’m finding it hard to read his relay diagram which pins go where (hasn’t included eccs relay PIN numbers and I’m not Very familiar with Reading relays diagrams without them)

 

if you are more familiar with them and could help me out that would be awesome 

 

 

 

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The new relay:

Pin 85 to ground.

Pin 86 to ignition switched +12V (you can use the original ecu wire that goes to pin 45)

Pin 30 to ground.

Pin 87 to original ECU pin 16 (ECCS relay control). 

 

The Link ECU ecu hold power output should be turned off and Inj 7 disconnected from pin 16.  The "ign switch" DI is also not needed.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/13/2020 at 10:20 AM, Adamw said:

The new relay:

Pin 85 to ground.

Pin 86 to ignition switched +12V (you can use the original ecu wire that goes to pin 45)

Pin 30 to ground.

Pin 87 to original ECU pin 16 (ECCS relay control). 

 

The Link ECU ecu hold power output should be turned off and Inj 7 disconnected from pin 16.  The "ign switch" DI is also not needed.

Been busy sorting out other things but almost 100% done now 

 

I will be wiring the new relay this week/weekend 

 

in regards to the new relay pin 87 to original ecu pin 16 (eccs relay control)

should I splice into it or run a new wire from pin 16 to relay 87 thus bypassing the factory eccs relay completely (or do we still need the factory eccs relay wired up and running aswell as the new relay)

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I turned the car on and off multiple times and it did it once back feeding out of say 8 times 

I will keep an eye on it 

 

I have Digital input - ignition switch OFF

 

and injector 7 - eccs relay - OFF

should I disconnect injector 7 wire that goes to engine harness pin 16 completely as I think that’s what u meant in the reply below 

or just turn them off in the ecu settings 

On 5/13/2020 at 10:20 AM, Adamw said:

The new relay:

Pin 85 to ground.

Pin 86 to ignition switched +12V (you can use the original ecu wire that goes to pin 45)

Pin 30 to ground.

Pin 87 to original ECU pin 16 (ECCS relay control). 

 

The Link ECU ecu hold power output should be turned off and Inj 7 disconnected from pin 16.  The "ign switch" DI is also not needed.

 

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Ok, perhaps there is another aux connected to something live.  For some of the stuff that has a relay or fuse you can test by getting it to back feed then pulling the relay/fuse for each aux circuit and if it suddenly switches off then you have found the culprit.

Some of them may not be easy to test that way so for those you will have to pull one wire out at a time and do an on/off test.  

 

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