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I have a 3UZ-FE with VVT and E-throttle,

and a G4 Red Extreme with external E-Throttle controller.

Just starting planning on the wiring and settings.

Will the 1UZ-FE VVT basemap be a good place to start?

Not worried about the tuning as I can sort most of that, but more with the trigger and VVT settings etc,

as I have not configured a vehicle with VVT on two banks before.

The file I have has

trig2: VVTi Cam type set as OFF,

Digital input 1 set as cam position RH

Digital Input 2 set as cam position LH

Auxiliary output 1 set as VVT cam solenoid RH

Auxiliary output 2 set as VVT cam solenoid LH.

 

Is trig 2 setting correct?  and do I need a sensor on the trigger 2 wire at all or is it left unused.

And do I just wire the two cam sensors to the digital inputs rather than analogue inputs,

even though I presume they are reluctor type sensors?

Trying to sort what wires will go where before I start.

I have attached the pcl file I have so far.

Thanks

 

 

G4 Extreme for 3UZFE VVT.pcl

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Yes our 1UZ map will be a pretty good starting point.  There should be another cam sensor at the front of the engine somewhere near one of the sprockets.  The front sensor should be connected to trigger 2, the mid sensors should be connected to the DIs.

I personally would have put the LH cam on DI1 and Aux 1 and the RH to DI2/Aux 2, so it matches our base map but it will still work the way you have done it.

The DI's 1-6 are designed to take VR sensors ok.

jfD7QLM.png

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  • 1 month later...

Ok Next question,

Injector and coil wiring firing order.

I take it that I wire

cylinder 1 injector to the output Injector 1

Cylinder 2 injector to the output injector 2 etc etc

and same with the coils Cylinder 1 to ign 1, cyl 2 to ign 2

But is that with the cylinders numbered

1, 2, 3, 4, on one bank and 5, 6, 7, and 8 on the other bank,

or is it 1, 3, 5, 7, on one bank and 2, 4, 6, and 8 on the other?

Using the 1UZ-FE base map it has firing order of 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok I have had it start and run on all cylinders so most of it must be right.

Having a heap of trouble with getting the E-throttle to work correctly though.

I calibrated the FPS not a problem,

Calibrating the TPS I had errors for Cannot achieve 98%.

Reading through a few files on here I swapped the TPS sub and Main and then it seemed to calibrate ok,

and sometimes the throttle works ok in setup mode if you move it slowly,

but if you move it too fast you get the throttle plate oscillating back and forth very quickly.

In on mode it does this then errors and stops working.

I think I need some help in getting to the bottom of this fault, and have attached a log and the map.

 

 

Log 28-09-20 9;12;40 pm Ethrottle Fault Link.llg G4 3UZFE.pcl

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An oscilation is an unstable control loop - it means your throttle PID needs work.  Best way to do this is leave it in set up mode, set up a time plot with TP main and TP target overlaid and adjust PID one at a time while moving the throttle - you will soon see the effect that each setting has.  

Do these engines have the clutched throttle like a 1UZ?  I dont see any aux output set up for the clutch.  There are settings for the 1UZ throttle in the help file.

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No this is not a clutched throttle so does not need that.

I have tried that and can now get it to work as well as expected while in setup mode

but will not work in on mode. I get error code 76.

 

I am still suspicious of my two TPS signals.

I have two outputs and if I manually move the throttle plate by hand

1st signal will go from 0% throttle at fully closed to read  100% throttle at about 2/3 travel

and the 2nd signal will read 60% when the first one reaches 100% and then continue on to 100% at full travel.

I have checked them in the runtime values,

and the first signal only spans from 0 to 60% and then the voltage output value does not change for the rest of the travel,

while the other one will span the full range of movement.

This means that the Sub and Main TPS percentages are the same at fully closed throttle,

but then are never the same for the rest of the travel and get further apart the more the travel.

 

Will the link still be able to work with these two signals like that,

and which one should be sub and main? I guess the main is the one that should span the full range?

 

 

 

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On 9/30/2020 at 1:19 AM, Matt Dunn said:

Will the link still be able to work with these two signals like that,

Yes.

On 9/30/2020 at 1:19 AM, Matt Dunn said:

I guess the main is the one that should span the full range?

Correct.  The TP main must cover full range.

This is taken care of during the auto calibration, the ecu records where the sub stops working in relation to the main.

QapvoT4.png

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Ok then, sounds like I have it all setup correctly, just a matter of getting the settings right.

I will see if I can get it right, otherwise I will leave it to the tuner to sort out when it goes for a tune.

 

 

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