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r32 gtr first log after starting


Tom's r32 gtr

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It looks like the throttle position sensor hasnt been calibrated. Throttle stop may first need to be closed a little to bring idle down a bit so do that first.  I would probably bump the master fuel up to 6 also since it goes very lean above 2000RPM - it will then be a bit on the rich side at idle but it will likely run happier.

Your fuel pressure cal looks wrong, input value B would usually be 4.5V for a MLH.  

Your flex fuel sensor isnt working.

 

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Should I calibrate the throttle position sensor from where it’s sitting right now or with the adjustment screw all the way out throttle all the way closed? I have adjusted the screw to where the car will idle any lower and it wants to die.. From your side of things can you see why my flex fuel sensor is not working?

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2 hours ago, Tom's r32 gtr said:

also should i set my idle adjustment screw to fully closed and then calibrate tps or get the car to idle and then calibrate?

Get it set so it idles first, then do the TPS cal.  You want the TPS to read zero at idle.  

 

2 hours ago, Tom's r32 gtr said:

but cant figure out the flex fuel sensor, its wired correctly but wont register anything...

Your settings are correct but the log shows no signal from the flex sensor.  Either the wiring is wrong or the sensor is faulty.  

Is your wiring like so?:

1KB2zDy.png

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Im not sure if I would expect there to be any resistance with a solidstate sensor like this.  Another thing you can do to test your wiring is change DI6 to GP input, pull-up resistor on.  Then with sensor unplugged DI 6 should show active, and if you short the Gnd/signal pins together at the flex plug then DI6 should show off.

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so my flex fuel sensor was bad. ive replaced it and this one now reads ACTIVE but not a actual percentage... ive switched to a thicker oil to cope with the 110 degree weather here in AZ  in hopes to raise my oil pressure a little... that has seemed to work. i also suspect that my oil temp sensor is bad. but judging off the oil pressure id say temp is probably fine.  also this thing WILL NOT stay running at a decent rpm. do i need to mess with any fuel tables or ign tables to get it to calm down?  ive attached my most recent log and tune. it was taken after it had reached operating temp with the help of my working the throttle to keep it running .... i let it die and then started it back up within the same log.... i think... let me know if im doing this right....:wacko:

thank you for all your help!

  • r32  gtr
  • rb26
  • g4+
  • e85
  • radium fpr with built in pulse damper
  • 1300 id inj.
  • gm flex fuel sensor
  • r35 coils
  • stock cam angle sensor
  • single throttle body
  • single turbo
  • link can lambda
  • link 3 port boost solenoid
  • internal map sensor

log 5.llg

tom 8.2.20.pclr

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I’ve set base time to 20 using a ht lead on cylinder #1 and put 20 in the timing reference section in pc link.. is that how that’s supposed to be done? Originally the timing reference in pc link was set to 10... as soon as it attempts to drop below 1k rpm it just dies.

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9 hours ago, Tom's r32 gtr said:

I’ve set base time to 20 using a ht lead on cylinder #1 and put 20 in the timing reference section in pc link.. is that how that’s supposed to be done? Originally the timing reference in pc link was set to 10... as soon as it attempts to drop below 1k rpm it just dies.

Yes, sounds like youve got it right.  the timing reference you can choose any number you like - usually to match whatever timing marks you have on the front cover.  Some engines for instance only have a TDC and 10BTDC mark so you would use 10 in this case.

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So this is what I’ve done, I’ve set my cam angle sensor to where the bolts are directly centered in the slots my timing at that point was way off using my timing light. I adjusted the offset to -58 that brought my timing to 20° with the timing light and cas center on the bracket. I’m sort of confused though because everything that I’ve seen says RB offset should be somewhere around -80 to default -87

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Most likely, adjust the throttle stop to see if it idles happily at lower RPM, it may need the idle cells in the fuel map adjusted if not.  Once you have the throttle in a position where it idles at an RPM you are happy with then lock up the screw, shut it down and do a TP cal.

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