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Ok, I had a quick look.  Assuming you have 2 times E-throttles?   Im not sure if you have any of the below connected to the C & D plugs but I will mention them anyway:

You will need 2 extra aux outputs assigned as E-throttle relay 1 & 2.

Your 4 TPS sensors will need 5V and gnds.

You will need a gnd out to the AP sensor.

Fuel pressure needs a gnd out.

Oil pressure needs a 5V and a gnd out.

You've got no aux assigned as Fan.

 

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1 hour ago, Adamw said:

Ok, I had a quick look.  Assuming you have 2 times E-throttles?   Im not sure if you have any of the below connected to the C & D plugs but I will mention them anyway:

You will need 2 extra aux outputs assigned as E-throttle relay 1 & 2.

Your 4 TPS sensors will need 5V and gnds.

You will need a gnd out to the AP sensor.

Fuel pressure needs a gnd out.

Oil pressure needs a 5V and a gnd out.

You've got no aux assigned as Fan.

 

yes 2 x e-throttles

Well spotted on the fuel pressure/temp sensor ground. I have it in the drawing and on my spread sheet but missed it out of this!

Plug D Pin #1 will have power from the front Power Distribution Module for Aux 17 & Aux 18

APPS is grounded @ Plug D Pin #5

Oil Pressure is powered from Plug A Pin #32 +5V and grounded @ Plug B Pin #22

My fans, 4 of them are controlled by dedicated controllers

i didn't omit pin outs for plugs C&D, I've only just finished them.

I'm most concerned about getting the E-throttle/pedal correct and I keep reading.

thanks heaps Adam.

Link Plug C.pdf Link Plug D.pdf

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You need to push the white lock tab in on the side of the connector, it should click in about 2-3mm.  You can then insert or extract the terminals fairly easily.  If they dont go in easily then your wire is too thick or crimp tool is not suitable.  The crimp on the insulation tabs should be round - not a B type crimp.  

Here is an old video I had on my phone showing how the terminals insert/remove:  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MnJlNTBhX_ccv40PbVgIi9XTy4HbXEfJ/view?usp=sharing

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I'm not getting your file Adam. It downloads as IMG_2393.MOV and previews as finger and thumb holding the plug but fails to do anything else.

I had a look at plugs B & C to see the structure and I want to remove 10 of the wires from plugs A & B that I wont be using and put them in C or D.

I've got the role of the white lock bit and can see that it frees the pins but when I try to open up plug A, the pins don't want to come away from the white bit.

I've slid the large black bit back down the loom a bit, to give me room to work and some wires/pins will move as if they want to come out but others are pulling on the whit lock piece and I don't want to bust anything.

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I found this video on youtube, 'very basic' instruction but clear. It seems I've gone way too far into the plug and I didn't need to separate the halves.

 

2 minutes ago, 928sg said:

about 2 minutes and 25 seconds into this video

 

Thank Sterling, you found the exact same one, well done.

I've been over thinking it!

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've been finalizing my E-throttle setup and I'm about to wire it up.

There have been a few changes to correct some stuff, so I'd be very grateful if this attached drawing could be checked, I really need to get this right.

Also, the cruise control switch on the bottom left of the drawing, is the stock Porsche one and is part of the column stork but the factory wiring diagram show all but the power feed wires just going into the control module.

Is there any way to work out what I should hook to my Thunder EU and where?

Link E-throttle layout.pdf

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16 minutes ago, Gsab said:

Mike, did you ever find PID settings for the 82mm Bosch t/b ?

 

I haven't looked for 82mm but the supplier [efi solutions] of my 74mm bodies supplied the pinout for them.

Interestingly, I have 2 Mercedes/Bosch bodies, 74mm that are close to identical to the new ones I bought but the pinout seems different, in that when I power plate, it works backwards!

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Pins B5 and D1 are the DBW supplies, ideally they would come from their own relay/PDM output that the ECU can shut off in the event of a safety concern.  See the diagram in the help file page: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-Throttle > Generic Internal E-Throttle Wiring for more info.

For the cruise switch, do you have a "schematic" type diagram of it?  How many buttons/switches does it have and how many wires?

2 hours ago, Gsab said:

Mike, did you ever find PID settings for the 82mm Bosch t/b ?

 

The VDO settings in the help file usually work ok with most Bosch throttles.

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14 hours ago, Adamw said:

Pins B5 and D1 are the DBW supplies, ideally they would come from their own relay/PDM output that the ECU can shut off in the event of a safety concern.  See the diagram in the help file page: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-Throttle > Generic Internal E-Throttle Wiring for more info.

For the cruise switch, do you have a "schematic" type diagram of it?  How many buttons/switches does it have and how many wires?

The VDO settings in the help file usually work ok with most Bosch throttles.

OK Adam, I can do that. I can supply their voltage from an ignition source through 2 solid state relays? Or can one relay feed thhe both? 10 amp should cover them should it not?

The cruise switch schematic is as I've drawn it. I copied it from the factory diagram. It has 4 wires black one is from the ignition and the other 3 go to the control module. Control module wires go to constant 12v, speedo, earth and bulb check unit and 2 to the actuator, which is vacuum controlled on this model and aren't very good.

The column stalk has 3 operation positions; forward = set/accelerate, down = resume, backward = cancel

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9 hours ago, Mike928 said:

OK Adam, I can do that. I can supply their voltage from an ignition source through 2 solid state relays? Or can one relay feed thhe both? 10 amp should cover them should it not?

Yeah one relay for the pair would do.  I think they are rated at max 4.4A continuous each, so 10A should do it.

 

9 hours ago, Mike928 said:

The cruise switch schematic is as I've drawn it. I copied it from the factory diagram. It has 4 wires black one is from the ignition and the other 3 go to the control module. Control module wires go to constant 12v, speedo, earth and bulb check unit and 2 to the actuator, which is vacuum controlled on this model and aren't very good.

The column stalk has 3 operation positions; forward = set/accelerate, down = resume, backward = cancel

Can you attach a pic of the factory switch schematic, because yours doesnt show any switch elements at all.  

If I were to hazard a guess I would say it is 1 common wire and 3 switch outputs, so you would connect the common to either ground or +12V (either is fine) and the other 3 to digital inputs.

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On 10/13/2020 at 9:08 AM, Mike928 said:

OK Adam, I can do that. I can supply their voltage from an ignition source through 2 solid state relays? Or can one relay feed thhe both? 10 amp should cover them should it not?

The cruise switch schematic is as I've drawn it. I copied it from the factory diagram. It has 4 wires black one is from the ignition and the other 3 go to the control module. Control module wires go to constant 12v, speedo, earth and bulb check unit and 2 to the actuator, which is vacuum controlled on this model and aren't very good.

The column stalk has 3 operation positions; forward = set/accelerate, down = resume, backward = cancel

Here are my mods. I've run a fresh supply for the E-throttles as the PDM has few outputs over 7.5 amp.

Also the schematic for the cruise switch.

Link E-throttle layout.pdf cruise circuit.docx

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Ok, all looks fine to me.

For the cruise switch; Black can be gnd or 12V.  Yellow is Set DI.  Brown/Blk is Cancel or On DI (Link needs On sw as a minimum, but doesnt need cancel).  Blue is Repeat/Resume DI.

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15 hours ago, Adamw said:

Ok, all looks fine to me.

For the cruise switch; Black can be gnd or 12V.  Yellow is Set DI.  Brown/Blk is Cancel or On DI (Link needs On sw as a minimum, but doesnt need cancel).  Blue is Repeat/Resume DI.

I think I will actually power the SSR from the PDM on a 7.5 amp point with a 10 amp wire and loop the next door 7.5 amp in to feed it 15 amps. There are plenty of 7.5 amp points.

On the cruise, does 'yellow is set DI' mean connect it to a digital input? Thus another DI for each of the others?

So Link just cancels via brake input?

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On 10/20/2020 at 9:28 PM, Mike928 said:

Can you tell me if, On the cruise, does 'yellow is set DI' mean connect it to a digital input? Thus another DI for each of the others?

Yes.

 

On 10/20/2020 at 9:28 PM, Mike928 said:

So Link just cancels via brake input?

Basically in your car the "ON" switch and the "Cancel" switch are the same thing (backwards on the stalk).  Some cars have seperate On and cancel switches - so you can cancel and resume without having to set the speed every time.  

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