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EJ20 NA dealing with AVCS


Anthony Parle

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On the Subaru EJ20 NA motor from around the 2010 period it has 2 groves on the cam as opposed to the 3 that the turbo motors have as can be confirmed by the scope trace.  With your help Adam we got that sorted my question do you think the work around will allow me to still use the AVCS and is there anywhere that I can read about how the Link Thunder would manage the solenoids to control it?  Purple is the spark on cylinder 1, yellow is crank and blue cam as you can see it has two groves not 3 as we expected.

tek00017.png.a04b008916fb2b7a23ae4517bbc602af.png

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The VVT part is easy, you can use the user defined mode, setup is explained in the help file.  

The unknown is how well the triggering side is going to work as the Subaru V7-10 trigger mode that you are using was never designed to work with cam teeth that move in relation to crank.  On the V7-10 engines they have a separate 2 tooth wheel on the front of the cam for trigger 2 that doesnt move in relation to crank.  I just done a quick test on the bench and it seems to work on ok on the simulator so you might have struck it lucky but I still have a little doubt.  It really needs a new trigger mode written to suit this engine but it is the only time I have ever come across it so it wouldnt be high on the priority list.

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3 hours ago, Adamw said:

The VVT part is easy, you can use the user defined mode, setup is explained in the help file.  

The unknown is how well the triggering side is going to work as the Subaru V7-10 trigger mode that you are using was never designed to work with cam teeth that move in relation to crank.  On the V7-10 engines they have a separate 2 tooth wheel on the front of the cam for trigger 2 that doesnt move in relation to crank.  I just done a quick test on the bench and it seems to work on ok on the simulator so you might have struck it lucky but I still have a little doubt.  It really needs a new trigger mode written to suit this engine but it is the only time I have ever come across it so it wouldnt be high on the priority list.

Its Okay Adam, as long as I can get the engine to run stable (Still working on, had to enter -30 degree in the calibration) I will be swapping out the cams for ones with 3 slots from Josh at Kelfords in the next round of testing.

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I have some sort of issue as the calibration change doesn't exactly relate to what I see on the timing light.  I maybe assuming incorrectly that a change of 10 degree on the Calibration setup will cause a change of 10 on the crank but it seems to cause a change of 20 degree but its not so simple, it appears that it will move a different amount depending on were it is on the tooth.  Pretty sure I can't get it to run this way but I will experiment with it a bit more and see.

Any idea's would be appreciated.

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Increasing the trigger offset by 1 deg should advance the timing by 1 deg.

Is the engine wasted spark?  If you have an advance timing light it will read double unless it has a specific wasted spark/2 stroke setting.

Otherwise it sounds like it may be a trigger issue, will need to see a log and your tune to help.

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You have very obvious trigger error in the video.  RPM should not bounce around like that.  You need to set trigger 2 to hall/opto.  Pull-up on.  Not sure if it will need rising or falling edge, possibly either will work.  I would try rising first.

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1 hour ago, Adamw said:

You have very obvious trigger error in the video.  RPM should not bounce around like that.  You need to set trigger 2 to hall/opto.  Pull-up on.  Not sure if it will need rising or falling edge, possibly either will work.  I would try rising first.

Okay done and the rpm is acting normal and calibration is doing the correct thing as well , I haven't been able to get it to fire during cranking, if when its stopped I do a spark check it will sometimes fire.   It maybe a wiring problem which I will check.

Have attached the latest log file,

Log 2020-08-22 8;51;32 am.llg

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All Sorted we have a running engine.

Because its a flat 4 cylinder 1 and 2, 3 and 4 are 360 degree opposite so I swapped the pins on the ECU plug.  Next thing you know she is firing took a while to get rid of the gut of fuel but once clear it fired up on all cylinder and I now have it idling so I can do a tune.

I assume I will need to adjust the injector time by 360 degree?

Thanks for your help Adam, I feel sorrow asking for help.

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The coils should always be wired ign 1 to cyl 1, ign 2 to cyl 2, etc.  Set the correct firing order in the software and then the only unknown you need to find yourself is the trigger offset.  

This will then mean injector timing is correct, knock control will identify the correct cylinder and any individual cyl trims will work correctly.

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