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Shadow

AEM MAP and IAT Sensor

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Hi guys,

I am back and starting to feel a lot better, different medication again.

So hopefully this will be the final trick to get me up and running on all 16 cylinders again.

I will get myself sorted again and finalise this PCL so you can get cruising.

Regards

Dave.

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Hi Dave,

It is good that you feel much better. We started to get really worried for you.

How soon do you think it will be finished?

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ASAP BROTHER.

Did you end up getting expansion cables for the base board.

This will give me a few more tricks up my sleeve.

Just check for sure, but normally i88 TOPBOARD PNP's have 2 expansion loom connectors.

If you order a second expansion cable order a CAN/OBD2 loom connector also, this will give us CAN BUS ability and also some OBD2 ability etc.

Regards

Dave.

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Hi Dave,

I can't wait to do a test run soon :D

I have ordered a second expansion connector. And yes, there are 2 connector sockets on the board.

I'm not sure of what we can do with the CAN BUS/OBD2 at this point. Maybe implement the PLX devices if that is possible. The S14 did not come with OBD2, but with a Nissan consult port.

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Can cut OBD2 connector from car at wreckers and use smart phone or tablets for viewing data.

Can setup for vehicle yearly inspections when they wish to check operation of on board diagnostics etc.

Can also setup CANBUS circuit for future CANBUS capabilities.

Would you like me to setup Automatic starter motor control with gearlockout etc.

Regards

Dave.

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Hi Dave,

It would be cool to setup some CAN BUS features for later use, maybe I will get a dashlogger later at some point.

I don't think I need automatic starter motor control, but this is parameters we can play with later?

We have rented an airstrip to race on next weekend, so I'm in desperate need of the PCL soon so I can get it to the dyno.

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Hi mate,

still feeling a bit sick and in pain.

However I have finished your PCL file for you to try.

I have also created a layout for you to work from the PCL file with.

Please ask anything you are not sure of.

Make sure you turn the FUEL MAIN setting from SEQUENTIAL TO OFF, or disconnect the injectors.

Go to calibrate triggers and carry out a proper trigger calibration without any fuel, so it doesn't try to start.

Once you have the trigger settings correct and the engine timing , is correct, turn the fuel back onto sequential or reconnect the injectors.

Holding the throttle open very slightly say 5% max crank the engine, adjust the fuel master number up or down in small increments to get the engine to fire.

You need to use an AFR meter while doing this process, it is extremely important that you use an AFR meter so you know if your pouring to much fuel in or not enough.

If things are right and close you should have the engine running in around 5 minutes or so.

Once the engine fires and is running, you need to make sure ,coolant, oil levels, fuel leaks etc have no issues.

If all is good you need to restart the engine and it around the 2000/2500 rpm until the engine warms up and all fuel enrichments etc are all off.

While running the engine at 2000rpm re-enter the calibration mode and set the Ignition timing for around 20 degrees, adjust the offset to get the ignition timing smack on 20 deg.

Adjust the fuel master so that while running at 2000 rpm to keep things safe at around 13 :1 -12.5:1.

Before you start any of this turn the fuel pump onto test on and set the fuel pressure regulator so that the fuel pressure is around 43 psi to match my injector dead times.

Have fun let me know how you go.

Once the engine fires and runs on it's own , recheck and recalibrate the triggers.

99.9% of the time the trigger offset needs adjusting slightly as the engine is running at a more consistant rpm.

You will have to PM me as I can not attach the Layout file.

PM me your email address so I can email the LAYOUT FILE TO YOU.

Have fun,

Regards

Dave.

PS:::: PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT YOU SAVE THE FILE TO THE LAPTOP AS A NEW PCL FILE WITH A DIFFERENT NAME (F2)

ALSO ALWAYS PRESS F4 TO SAVE ANY CHANGES TO THE ECU, ESPECIALLY AFTER SETTING THE TRIGGERS UP ETC.

Don't forget to do a FIRMWARE UPGRADE FROM MEMORY YOUR FIRMWARE IS OLD.

SHADOWS SR20DET SR20 DET E85 FUEL..pcl

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Hi Dave,

Thank you so much!

I will follow your guide and do some testing :)

I will PM you my email address. It is possible to post zip files btw.

By calibrating the triggers, you mean the CAS?

I hope you get well soon mate.

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Yes, the CAS this is very important.

Make sure you go to test ECCS tab first under Trigger setup, disable the fuel or injectors and crank the engine continuously until a value appears in the widest slot position.

Once this value has been recorded, turn the test ECCS SYNC function to OFF.

Then make sure you hit F4 and save to the ECU, I always hit F2 and save to the file also.

Now go to the Calibrate triggers tab, double click the set base timing tab,

Once again make sure that the base fuel is set to OFF instead of SEQUENTIAL or just disconnect the injectors, you do not want the engine to fire while trying to set your offset correctly.

Select a reasonable value such as 20 deg, 20 degrees will be the fourth line from left to right on the balancer each mark is 5 degrees.

Adjust the offset until you see 20 deg

Once you see 20 degrees, re enable the fuel system and try to start the engine, remembering what I have posted in the previous post I made.

Once you have the engine going, set the trigger offset again to achieve 20 deg.

I have sent you emails with the other info.

Good luck.

If you look at my timing able you will see it is fairly savage, comes onto high timing values fairly quickly, you have eliminated the inlet VCT so I have tried to allow for this and also you are running E85.

But as always watch out for Detonation.

I have setup Knock control in your file, however unfortunately I cant setup the rest of that for you without being in front of the engine on the dyno.

Good luck.

Sorry about the delay.

Dave.

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An important message, I never rely on the timing loop at the rear of the engine or clamp the inductive pick up around the coil driver wires to trigger the timing light.

I always fit a HT SPARK PLUG LEAD to the coil and then onto the sparkplug, I put the inductive pickup on the lead.

Tape up the end of the coil where the HT LEAD plugs in, to stop shock or HT SPARK misfire to ground.

DONT FORGET TO CALIBRATE THE TPS AND MAP SENSOR.

Dave.

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Hi Dave,

I just got home from the garage now, and have done some few tests.

I did the ECCS test, and the ECCS widest slot said 16 degrees after I cranked the engine.

Also used the timing light (between the coil and spark plug) and it was 15 degees.

I didn't do anything with the trigger offset. Not sure how it works, so didn't dare trying.

The engine starts at first try without adjusting the fuel main.

At idle speed it revs up to 2900 rpm on cold engine and after the water temp gets to around 75 degree Celsius it start to chase between 2400 - 2900 rpm. I turned the car off/on and the rpm was at 800 - 900.

I tried to adjust the master fuel up and down, but the engine starts to rev higher when I decrease it, and almost choking when I increase it. The AFR is at 10.x all the time even when I increase/decrease the master fuel ms.

The car is so rich at idle speed so there is big white steam cloud coming from the oil catch tank. At the moment the car works best as a mobile distillery. The oil catch tank is filled with pure alcohol.

Are you able to help me on teamviewer/skype at around 7 p.m at your local time?

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Hi Dave,

Been at the garage today and solved the problem with the car revving to high. It was a leak between the upper and lower plenum. After I sealed it and started the engine everything was fine!

Took the car out for a drive and summonme adjusted the fuel while I was driving and it was all good :)

Had some issues with the battery not charging, but I will figure it out tomorrow.

I will come back to you when I have done some more tests and tuning.

Thank you for all the help mate!

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Hi mate,

I am very happy to hear your car is running and you are sorting it out.

However I just wish to appolagise for not catching up on the weekend etc.

I became very ill again and was bed ridden for 3 days, I am on new medication again and I am starting to feel a little better now.

Let me know if you need further help.

Did you need to make many changes to my PCL file for the engine to run well.

Regards

Dave.

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Hi Dave,

The engine worked great with the PCL file. Just had to adjust fuel a little and it was fine.

I had the car at the dyno on friday for a final tune, but I think they forgot to save the boost control.

The turbo won't do more than 1 bar (14.5 psi) of boost. When I disconnect the wastegate hose I get more than 2 bar (29 psi) of boost (just for testing purpose).

The MAP sensor shows 176 kPa and the boost gauge shows 1 bar (14.5 psi). I tried with two different boost gauges, installed the vacuum hose before and after the throttle body, with the same result.

I have now changed the MAP sensor to the one sold by Vi-PEC (5 bar TI) but I can't find it in the dropdown menu.

Here is a log for the test and the final pcl:

Shadow final PCL and log.rar

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Hi mate,

that's great news.

What boost did you wish to run 28 psi or something wasn't it.

Can you give me the P/No from the sensor so I can correct the CAL for you.

Are you tuning in Lambda or AFR, your data log mixtures look pretty wild.

I also need to know what type of wastegate you are using and how it is plumbed up.

The boost table has 100 % duty in it, when the solenoid is at 100% duty the boost should be off it's head.

I need you to connect a vacuum hose from a boost source either on your compressor housing or even inlet plenum and connect it to the under side of the wastegate if it is external, or just to the fitting on the wastegate dashpot if it is an integral wastegate.

This way we can see how many psi the waste gate spring is rated at, if it is only for example an 8 psi spring and you wish to run 2 bar, it will never happen.

Regards

Dave.

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Hi Dave,

Yes, I wish to run 28 psi of boost. But the local tuner said that I got backpressure at 25.5 psi of boost, so there was no point pushing any further above this.

I will install a boost gauge to monitor the back pressure to verify it.

The Vi-Pec MAP sensor P/No is #VMAP5 "Vi-pec Map sensor -5Bar Ti".

I am using an internal wastegate 15 psi to 32 psi: Ebay Wastegate actuator

When I did the test with removed vacuum hose to the wastegate actuator, the boost gauge displayed 29 psi and the MAP in iVTS displayed 300+ kPa. And I could really feel the cars power.

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Hi mate,

OK can you please verify the exhaust back pressure please and let me know what it is.

Also need to know how your wastegate is setup, as having 100% DUTY in the table does not make sense.

Do you own the wideband and is it connected to the ECU still.

Need to do the tests etc I have requested so I know what is going on.

I should be able to rectify your other issues for you and get a lot better tune in the engine for you.

Regards

Dave.

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Hi Dave,

I will see if I can find a heat resistant hose I can use for the back pressure and see what it is.

I got a wideband sensor in the car and it is connected to the ECU.

I don't know why the wastegate is set to 100% duty, but it clearly does not work.

Here is the dyno chart for looks:

post-1672-143450215412_thumb.jpg

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Hi mate,

here is a basic and accurate TI 5 BAR calibration for you.

Set your MAP sensor up as the same and carry out a MAP calibration and press F2 to save to PCL file and F4 to save to the ECU.

I will create a list of things I need you to check and will post them ASAP.

Have to go play with the tune on a Twin Supercharged Big Block Chev now.

Regards

Dave. :D

post-1099-143450215427_thumb.gif

post-1099-143450215436_thumb.gif

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Hi Shadow,

I have attached a data log of an R32 GTR Skyline with twin small HKS GT-SS turboes, I tuned on the dyno Saturday.

I used basic open loop waste gate control on this engine and as you can see the boost curve is pretty sweet.

The GTR runs 413 HP @ all 4 wheels on 18 psi , stock bottom end and straight BP98 fuel.

The maximum duty I used in this set up was 50% down low to bring the turboes in strong and hard.

This thing is awesome to drive in 4 wheel drive mode.

Regards

Dave.

post-1099-143450215419_thumb.gif

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There is something about the boostcontrol that`s not right.

It was boosting 1.75Bar on the dyno and above that we were having typical backpressure issuses.

It made 476whp and more boost just lowered the power.

The timing of this engine makes it sensitive to backpressure, we would have played around with timing on the dyno but its a hassle with this engine.

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Hi,

a little late now, but when ever I think I am having a back pressure issue I drop the exhaust, unless I believe the issue is the exhaust manifold or turbine A/R.

A simple way to make up a back pressure sensor fitting, is to weld a fitting to the manifold or the exhaust dump pipe, depending on where you believe the back pressure issue to be.

Use a fitting that will allow the use of small diameter copper or stainless pipe with compression olive fitting or swage lock type fitting, make this pipe as long as possible to disapate the heat as much as possible obviously, then use a piece of hose to connect to the pressure gauge or use olive or swage lock fitting to the gauge again.

I would also like you to connect a hose from your boost source to the wastegate actuator.

I want to find out the wastegate crack pressure, the point at which the wastegate first starts to open and bleed boost off.

Completely disconnected one would expect a radical boost pressure, even with only an 8 psi spring, but I want the test done this way please.

Also I need a diagram very basic is fine of how the wastegate is plumbed up and what solenoid ports are used etc.

In the parts of the boost table where the boost solenoid duty is 100% the boost should be 300 odd Kpa.

Regards

Dave.

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