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Evolink G3 and anti-lag


Stephen Fargher

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hi. just finished installing my new evolink G3 - very impressed - car started first time and seems to run ok (well, it idles and revs) - was hoping to annoy the neighbours by turning on the anti-lag (mode 2 - Gp.N) - but it's all a bit confusing! Car is going onto the dyno tomorrow morning so I'm not too concerned, but it's giving me grief when I try to enter values into the settings panel (i.e. cyclic idle limit etc) - it doesn't display the numbers I'm entering and when I hit enter it either does nothing or tells me that I've entered a number outside the limits. wha? Mostly curious as - like I said - it's going on the dyno to get turned by someone who knows what they're doing!

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ok, I've figured out what's going on - the numbers in the fields aren't displaying - If I use Q and A or enter a figure the field goes blue to show it's changed from what's stored , but it doesn't show me the numbers themselves - anyone come across this before? So onto my question proper - once AL is enabled and the settings panel filled it, do you need to set the tables or are the default values (mostly zeros!) a good starting point? thanks.

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Press enter after typing into the fields.  Table changes are made immediately, all other changes require enter to be pressed after typing...  A pain I know, but that is the way windows controls work!

You will definitely need to enter the correct values in the tables, especially for group N mode.  Make sure that you have the latest firmware installed as it fixes an anti-lag bug with the ignition trim.  Read the help (press F1 on any setting) about what each table does.  the G3 anti-lag is very powerful and works well, but it is all in how it is set up.  It is not the easiest to set up, but with a powerful feature comes complexity...

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Ashley, I read the help about entering values and

i am hitting enter, but it still does not show the numbers - as stated when

i hit enter it changes the field to blue to show it's changed but I can't see anything!!  it should have the latest firmware as it only arrived yesterday from you guys and I downloaded the PCLink software on tuesday!!

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hi. got it working - sort of.  It does the cyclic idle stuff ok, and arms the AL at my preset RPM and TPS % - and makes it launch like a rocket! which is all good - however, I had to turn it off for the weekend as it was doing something very wierd - when the AL is working - if you back off the throttle (to brake for a corner or simply push in the clutch) the motor holds @ 4000rpm until the AL times out (currently 5 seconds) and I can't seem to be able to change that RPM - I tried backing out the idle screw and changing the arming RPM in case it was using that.  Also, we unplugged the idle stepper plug in case that was causing a problem.  I suspect we may need to retard the timing when AL is activated?

Also, in the settings, the 3 tabs for AL ignition cut/fueld and ign trim the headings are in italics and it says inactive - not sure if this is right or not?  I've compared these tables with the G3 example map that comes with the PC link software and they seem to be about right.

Also, I disabled the AL by setting the activation to a digital input that doesn't exist - but the car is a complete pig to drive - @ 100km/h it's not too bad but @ 50km/h it's impossible (and quite embarrassing!!) - is this normal?

any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated!  Also, I can email a copy of the current map if that would help...

Steve.

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Cyclic idle is meant to be a dog to drive...  The idea of group N anti lag is:

  • No additional throttle step up devices are allowed.  Anti lag requires that additional air is bypassed around the throttle as an engine cannot produce boost with a shut throttle.
  • Since the throttle is open far enough to produce boost all the time, some sort of limiting is required to stop the engine from continuously over revving.  That is known as a cyclic limit.
  • So at idle and cruise, the cyclic idle is the only thing slowing you down.
  • when you back off, the throttle is still open so the revs stay up, the engine is still trying to produce power to keep boost up.  Adding more ignition retard will reduce that RPM.

Anti-klag is a pig to drive, you have little or no engine braking and no vacuum assist (as there is no vacuum).  Group N anti lag is worse as the throttle air bypass cant be switched off.  If you are not running in a group N class, then run the group A mode and add a switchable idle bypass, then you can turn it off while you are driving.

Be very careful setting up anti-lag.  It is a powerful feature but can result in total engine destruction if not setup correctly.  Get hold of a tuner that knows his way round anti-lag.  Also read all the online help in PCLink.  The base numbers in your ECU will probably not be suitable for your engine.  Also read up on what the AL ignition cut table is used for, it probably should not all be 0's.

When table names are in italics, it means they are not being used (not active).  Antilag tables are only used when anti-lag is "Activce".  Remember that cyclic idle and anti-lag are two different things and operate independently.  Cyclic idle keeps the RPM down when Antilag is not working, but does nothing while anti-lag is working.

You can attach you .pcl file to a forum post or email it if you want...

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Hi Ashley, thanks for your reply.  I've re-read everything (again!) and think I'm on to it.  I'll get this tuned by a professional but I'm keen to understand why it wasn't working for my own knowledge....  As the IGN Cut table is all zeros, when AL is active, backing off the throttle will not create  anti-lag as such - as the throttle plate is open, fuel is being injected (despite the rather high IGN retard values) - it's the IGN cut that causes the AL mis-firing?  So for aggressive AL, I would enter 8 in the relevant fields (2 x 4cyl) and for mild AL I would enter 2 in the relevant fields?

Also, 1 more question!!  I assume the EvoLinkG3 ECU header is different from the standard LinkPlus G3 header?  I'd like to hook up a Digital Input to activate the AL as well as the TPS and RPM settings.  However, my car doesn't have a plug for the A/C switch (it's an Evo RS) and I removed the factory water-sprayer switch (seemed like a good idea at the time!!)  Do you guys have a diagram of the EvoLink G3 ECU header (Evo 1-3) ?

Thanks again for your time (and patience!)

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Well, the idea of the ignition cut table is not cause misfiring, but rather to limit the  RPM a little.  It also has the effect of allowing unburnt fuel into the exhaust.

Fuel is always being injected, but that can be increased during anti-lag operation using the anti-lag fuel table.

It is the ignition retard that has the most important effect.  The fuel is ignited so late in the cylinder that it is still well and truly burning and expanding when the exhaust valve opens.  That also helps to ignite other unburnt fuel in the exhaust manifold.  The popping and banging does not come from the ignition cut, but rather from fuel being ignited in the exhaust pipe.

So, you do not enter a higher value in the ignition cut table for more aggressive anti-lag.  A higher number in that table will help reduce the 4000 RPM that you get between gear changes.  The anti-lag idle up also has an effect on that RPM value.  A higher retard and fuel value will give more aggressive anti-lag.

The EVOLink G3 and LinkPlus G3 ECU's are similar but not the same in the header pinout.  But as far as digital input locations go, the lower 8 are in the same pin locations as the LinkPLus G3.  Download the LinkPlus G3 wiring manual for a pinout.  We can also supply terminals for the factory connectors if you want to add wires...

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  • 3 years later...

You will need to adjust a combination of your throttle stop setting and ignition retard numbers.  There should be no need to alter the fueling if it was setup up correctly before.  I would suggest that the throttle is not far enough open if it only idles at 4000 when you turn AL off.  throttle positions of 15% to 20% from fully closed are quite common.  If you open the throttle that far you will need to leave AL on all the time, use cyclic idle or have a solenoid that pushes the throttle open when required.

Have you considered upgrading that ECU to G4 firmware?  It would move you to the latest firmware and PCLink.  Note that G4 firmware has a much improved anti-lag and cyclic idle system as well as a major list of other improved features including data logging.

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yes we are most proberly doing a ecu upgrade next year after the engine freshen up so it will be back to the dyno and tuned accordingly. the throttle is set up on a hand jack to open the butterfly when you turn the AL on (a bicycle gear shift leave attached to the throttle linkage set on a stop) realy the AL just needs to be made more agressive to keep the boost up when braking into corners.

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