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Dantical

Which ECU??? Mr2 3S-GTE

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Hey there,.. 

i hope it is the right section,.. 

I want to mod my 3S-GTE gen 3 in my MR2 Turbo.

I know there is the LInk Plug in ECU for it but i don´t know what it can and what it doesn´t?

I am not a tuner,.. so please for give those 'noobie' questions,.. i know a lot about this and other Engines and a lot about cars,.. but not really much about the mapping,.. my friend will do it ,.. :)

I mean does it have full Knock control? and if yes, does it work with the standard sensor?

Iam planning to add an open element IAT Sensor.

And a Wideband O2 Sensor,.. do i need a controller? which Sensors would fit?

I want to switch to CORP Ignition and a Borgwarner efr 7064,.. Sard 1000cc injectors bosch 044 fuel pump and so on,.. 

what is the best ecu for my purpose ?

I would like to get the Plug in but i really don´t know the Pros and Contras about it ? What do i have to buy and what does not work with it ??

Thank you so much!

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Hi Daniel,

The G4 Plug-in ECUs do not have knock control, so if you want knock control you will have to go to the G4 Xtreme wire-in ECU as it is the only Link G4 ECU with built-in knock detection. The alternative is to use an external knock detection device like the KnockBlock.

The plug-in ECU is designed for more minor modification that uses the factory inputs and outputs. The plug-in for your car would be the TST205 ECU code. You can find the manual for it here:

http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g4-engine-management-documentation/toyota-mr2-rev12-3-toyota-celica-st205

For a wideband O2 sensor you will require a controller. The ECU needs to see a 0.0 to 5.0 volt signal.

Because of the setup you already have and your future plans I would recommend going with a wire in ECU, it has the ability to support more inputs and outputs so you can add more to your setup in the future. Another benefit is that if you change cars in the future you can likely use a wire-in ECU on your next car.

Scott

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And another question of me ,.. ;)

 

What is when the engine gets an error ? Does the link ECU Show it up in the Combination meter like the original MIL?

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Hi Daniel,

I've just looked at the expansion connector on the plug-in ECU. The manual is actually incorrect! The expansion connector gives you access to 3 additional Digital Input channels, but only 2 more Analog Volt channels. I will get the manual corrected.

The plug-in ECU can do launch control.

Yes, the check engine light will come on if the plug-in ECU detects a fault or if the engine coolant temperature is over 105 degrees C.

Scott

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Hi Daniel,

I am running the 3SGTE with 850s and an EFR 6758. I'd suggest buying a Storm or even Extreme. I bought a PnP ECU and actually I would have gotten off better with one of the latter ECUs. Reasons:

1. More flexibility. You simply have more Input channels with wire ins. Besides, I chose to open up my engine wiring loom to extract all wires unused and ended up with an almost completely stripped and reworked loom in the first instance, so I could have fabricated a custom loom as well.... which I did in the second instance....

2. No need for an external MAP Sensor. The PnP board relies on your stock MAP Sensor which is definitely 'outboosted' if you plan to use the EFR in a way it is designed to so you'd need an external sensor eliminating one of the already scarce Analog Inputs. The Storm and the Extreme have internal sensors with 2.5bar which are perfectly suited for anything but insane builds.

3. No hassle with basic setup. Just copy the settings and Maps of the PnP File and you have a perfect startup map as you would have with the PnP.

As an excuse: when I bought the PnP I wasnt aware how crappy the stock wiring is and had no plans on switching to COP ignition, an EFR and so on...

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I'm running the storm with my Gen4 3s-gte (no plug and play for me).  I'm going to add the knock block but have more than enough input's otherwise.  I really like being able to switch back to the stock ECU so I'm leaving my wiring as stock as possible.  If you are doing the same then go with the plug in, if you building a fresh harness then go with the wire-in.

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