Chris-Andre Lie Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 i have a sierra cosworth that i want wasted spark on.. i got the 2 channel ignitier and a msd coilpack from zetec engine.. HOW???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted April 9, 2007 Report Share Posted April 9, 2007 Are you running one of our ECU's? If so which one... With most of our ECU's its as simple as switching the ignition mode to wasted spark and wiring the coils correctly. There are also some triggering conditions that must be met. If your engine has a 36-1 (35 tooth and one gap) crank wheel like most cosworth engines than this will not be a problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-Andre Lie Posted April 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 I got the lem G3 and i got the org crank wheel with 4 tooth... Both triggers are reluctar... All the wirering is ok and the ground is good. I am using falling. But i saw that there was an update that this bug was fixed... But it want transfer to ecu? I got the support files... Pclink finds the ecu at ones but not the updates? I try this without pclink logged in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 You cannot do a firmware update while PCLink ties up the comm port. You need to exit PCLink before running the update program. To run wasted spark you will need a sync pulse. As well as your four teeth (wired to trig 1), is there a single tooth sync pulse wired to trig 2? For a Link igniter you must run a rising dwell edge or you will burn the coils out. From memory, that bug only occurred when you hit the rev limit in rising dwell mode, the engine would cut, then stay cut until it stopped! the bug will not be a problem for you if your engine is not running. Falling dwell edge is only used on some honda and ford factory igniters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-Andre Lie Posted April 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 i dont have the pclink connected to the ecu.. and all i got for answer wen i try to update is check your usb connection.. but that is strange because when i try with pclink its connecting at ones.. about the triggers i got the 4 tooth trigger wheel at trigger 1 and the org cosworth distrubuter that has 2 tooth... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 I am uncertain why you are having trouble performing a firmware update! My suggestion is that you try it with a different PC... So for triggerin, you have a four tooth pickup on the crank connected to trigger 1, and a 2 tooth pickup in the distributor connected to trigger 2. Is that correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-Andre Lie Posted April 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 thats correct about the triggers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-Andre Lie Posted April 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 what kind of setup should i use with this type of trigging? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 Yous should use a Multi-Tooth triggering mode with the following setup: Trigger Mode - Multi-toothMulti-tooth Location - CrankTooth Count - 4Sync Location - Crank The reason to use a sync location of Crank is that the sync pulse occurs once per crank revolution not once per cam revolution....Once you have this setup, crank the engine with fuel turned off and check for trigger errors... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-Andre Lie Posted April 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2007 now i have tried that setup, but no spark at all. and the triggers are okey. what can be the solution to that? i really wanna start this engine now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted April 15, 2007 Report Share Posted April 15, 2007 First read through all the sections of PCLink help on triggering to make sure I have given you the right advice!!! Next is to see if you have stable RPM during cranking (that sounds like the correct RPM - 150-200 RPM). Also check that during cranking the trigger error counter is not incrementing. That would indicate the trigger setup is wrong. If you have stable RPM and no increasing trigger errors (you may get one or two on the first engine rotation) then trigger setup is most likely OK. Note that the YES/NO values for trigger 1 and trigger 2 do not actually indicate that the triggering is OK, just that a trigger signal is being received by the ECU... Have you set up your ignition mode correctly? Wasted spark and rising dwell edge for a Link igniter. You can check your ignition outputs from the ECU using an LED test light connected between the output and ground... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-Andre Lie Posted May 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 now i have startet the engine but it wont ignition on two of the plugs.. i have tried to switch the plugcables from 1-4 to 2-3 and it fires at just two of them.. then i messured the signal out from the 2 channel ignitier and on the cable plug to the coilpack it has 3 points + in the middle and triggers to right and left.. between + and channel one there is 12volts continusly and on channel two there is 0volts. and when I crank the engine it gives +12 volts on channel two when trigging. but on channel one there is nothing that happens.. then i testet the ignition module between trigger one in and coil negative 1 and it showes that the signal is on all the time. on trigger two and coil negative 2 there is nothing, only when cranking.. so i think that the 2 channel ignitier i got is dead on one channel... i have tried to call racefix in norway now for 2 mounths but still not answer... i am starting to get angry of this.. i hope you could help me here Ashley! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 If you still have triggering problems, then the ECU may not output the correct ignition pulses. Have you checked that both trigger signals are present and that there is no trigger errors. Have you selected Wasted Spark ignition mode? Use the LED's on the igniters to determine if the ECU is trying to fire them... You must make sure triggering is 100% correct before worrying about what the outputs are doing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-Andre Lie Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 now i have used timing light and calibrated the triggers and still now spark at sylinder 2 and 3... 1 and 4 sparks very well.. both of the led flashes as they should... and there is no trigger errors now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted May 3, 2007 Report Share Posted May 3, 2007 Are you using the RS500 trigger mode or the multi tooth trigger mode? RS500 mode is setup for your triggering mode so they tell me. Sometimes the ECU will not fire one ignition channel if it is having trouble with triggering. there are cases where they trigger error counter does not actually count. Have you tested the ignition outputs of the ECU to make sure that they are both pulsing? Oh , hold on I just saw that both LED's flash OK, that means the ECU is trying to fire both ignition channels! Have you swapped the wires on the inputs and outputs of the igniters to see if 2 and 3 start firing and 1 and 4 stop. That would eliminate the igniter.  If both LED's are going, then the problem is the igniter, wiring or coils. The LED's should be off at key-on, then start pulsing when you crank and run the motor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-Andre Lie Posted May 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 now i have tested to swap trigger 1 and 2 out from the ignitier so that sylinder 2 and 3 should spark, but still 1 and 4 that fires.. so i tried the coil in an friends mondeo and it works very well... so my conclusion is that one of the ignitier outputs are dead because the triggers are calibratet and engine timing is correct and both leds are flashing as they should... but what do i do when i dont get in contact with your dealer here in Norway, (RACEFIX) i both the management lem G3 8th of february this year... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-Andre Lie Posted May 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2007 sorry i ment that it sparks on 2 and 3 when i switch the triggers output from the ignitier... so it dont sparks on 1 and 4... when i use my multimeter and messurs between 12+ in on coil and the trigger out from the ignitier, it showes 12v + continusely on one and 0v on the other output... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted May 6, 2007 Report Share Posted May 6, 2007 OK, sounds like you have a faulty igniter doesn't it? The channel that has 0V all the time, is that the faulty one? The output of the igniter with the coil connected should be 12V when the LED for that channel is off and 0V when the LED is on. If the LED's are off with the key on (as they should be), both outputs should measure 12V. If one measures 0V the channel is stuck on and will be driving the coil all the time! Does the coil get hot? Have you checked that the wiring on the channel with 0V is not shorted to ground! You can test the igniter by manually putting 12V on the input, then watching that the LED comes on and the output goes to 0V. Do this with the key on and coils connected. Disconnect the ECU from the igniter. Do not hold power on too long as you may damage the coils. How have you been trying to get in contact with racefix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-Andre Lie Posted May 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2007 i have tried to call a dusin times and send him e-mails.. he dosent answer on e-mail og phone... i am getting pretty tired of it.. because he promest me that he would help me with the tune up and all that so i would be correct... so both of the ignitier outputs should show 12v out? remember that I am jusing "RISING DWELL EDGE"  its output 2 that shows 12v and thats the output that dosen`t work... output 1 shows 0v and works very well...   i dont know what to do when i want this to work and fire on all 4 sylinders since i cant get to talk to RACEFIX...  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-Andre Lie Posted May 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2007 could i use some other type of ignitier modul on G3 ? i dont have patient to wait for RACEFIX to answer... most likely i am going to dyno run next week, so i need this to work.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted May 7, 2007 Report Share Posted May 7, 2007 Pretty muchly any igniter can be used on the ECU... Just to get this clear, at key on, both led's are off. When you crank, they start to flash? If that is not the case, then something else is wrong. Rising dweel edge means that the signal out from the ECU will normally be 0V, then go to 8V (rising dwell edge) to charge the coil (LED will come on), then go back to 0V to fire the coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-Andre Lie Posted May 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2007 yes at key on both led's are off.. they start flashing as soon as the engine i cranked... about rising dwell edge we thinks the same here.. but one output i 12v+ all the time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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