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William B. Cushman

G4 Extreme internal knock control - MR2

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Hi, I'm trying to set up an Extreme G4 with a 1993 Toyota MR2 3s-GTE engine and am trying to get everything as close as I can before attempting an initial start. I'm not at all sure I understand some of this, though. Can anyone tell me what knock settings they use with this engine? I'm using the stock Toyota sensor fed directly to Knock 1. Thanks! Bill

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Hi Jurgen, I did read the help file section, and used the values given there for my initial values. I also think I understand what's going on . . . but this is all completely new to me and I was looking for a concrete example to compare with. The engine starts up and runs! I still have an issue though, I'm getting an error message from the Wideband (LC-1) saying the voltage is going over 5 volts. This is probably a 'difference of opinion' between the LC-1 and the Extreme about what constitutes 5 volts which will be easily fixed by lowering the upper limit on the LC-1 slightly. I'll try that today weather permitting. It's freezing here today! Another question: the LC-1 is powered on when the O2 Heater is powered up, so should this be immediately upon starting, or after a certain ECT temperature, or what? Best regards, Bill

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It usually takes 10 or 20 seconds for the LC-1 to heat up from cold then the controller will start working. The new sensor calibration works out how long it takes I think then it knows for future starts. Depending how you've wired it (+12V power from an ignition on source as specified in the installation manual) it should start heating as soon as the ignition is on.

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Thanks Nick, I suffered another misconception, apparently, and wired the LC-1 to switch on with an AUX output set up for 'O2 Heater.' The high side input for the LC-1 is already attached to ignition-switched B+, and both the ground for the heater part and the controller itself are switched low by the Extreme. I see now that this was wrong, because before the Extreme switches on ANY output from the controller will be higher than 5 volts simply because there is no ground reference at that time. I'll re-wire that today. Is there any reason to keep the heater part switchable from the Extreme? I presume that the 'O2 Heater' option on AUX outputs is to accommodate the narrowband type and is no longer relevant here? Bill

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Hi Bill.

O2 Heater function is operable for both... It's about as smart as a GP Output and works the same way.  If you have the outputs, you may as well.  It can destroy parts of the sensor if the heater is on (key on) and engine off.  I will sometimes sit in my car waiting for the Mrs and have the wipers on for instance (which needs key on).  May be you could set conditions to say only >400rpm, so your engine will have to be running for it to be heating.

You are bang on with the adjusting of the output from the LC-1 (by not letting it output 5v), as most times it will throw a 'at 5V' code when you hit over-run, backing off the gas pedal.  If you would like to disable any ANVolt error high/low fault codes from coming up at all, you can input 0v for the low and/or 5v for the high to disable either or both.

Jurgen

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Hi Jurgen, Sorry to keep asking stupid questions, but I can't seem to find where to input the voltages to prevent ANVolt error fault codes. I seem to have 'disabled' my LC-1, or in any case it ceased functioning, and I replaced it with a NGK AFX system. Unfortunately, I now have no way (that I know about anyway) to change the range values for this new system and am again getting over-voltage faults. (When the LC-1 was still working, setting it with a range up to 4.95 did clear out the fault problem.) PCLink says the system analog voltage is 4.98, so if the AFX is actually 5.0 at the top end that would explain the issue. So, I'm now using ANVolt 1 and have it set at 'Wideband,' with 'calibration' set to NGK AFX Wideband. How do I get to the input range settings? Best regards, Bill

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