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2jz non VVTi Crank angle setup?


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Hello all!

I have a 2jz-gte out of a 94 Supra. We have got the V88 all wired up and set to run with LS1 truck coils. One thing we were not sure of was the crank angle set up for the 2jz. The only one that seems to be listed for the JZ is a 1jz vvti (we get no RPM with that selected), is that the same?

Bill was able to go in and set a custom one that should work (when we crank it we get 50rpm) but I had a low battery and we were not able to light it off (no spark).

What we have right now is:

Multi-tooth Posn: Crank

Sync pulse:Cam

Tooth count: 24

Trigger mode: Multi-Tooth

Trigger Priority: Trig1 (this was the only one we were not sure of)

We are running Firmware 4.2.2 we will be updating to the new one next time we work on it.

Thanks for any help!

Jeremy

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Ha I had a feeling it was a 12 tooth crank wheel! we were using the front cam sensor too so we will change that and see how it goes on Friday.

Thanks a lot Ray!

My e-mail is turbodrifter at hotmail dot com

Jeremy

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One last quick question, what is a good setup for LS1 coils. Right now we have it setup as Dwell Edge: Rising, Ignition delay: 0us(have not run it yet to set this up) and Spark Duration 1.0ms.

Thanks,

Jeremy

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Well tonight we got the car cranking. We tested spark on all coils, inj, cam and crank signal both show up. We set the triggers the way you described Ray and the way it was in the cal you sent. Cam signal is set on the rear most sensor. We tested spark with a timing light and did not have spark with the sensor set on sensitivity 1 and ended up getting spark with it set to 2, 3 and 4. To get the timing to 10deg we needed to set the Trigger Offset to 90deg.

We then turned on the injectors and proceeded to try and start it. It would fire and run for a sec then die. We looked at the timing light when it fires and dies the spark dies too. If you continually crank it the engine fires then dies, fires then dies at the same time as the spark falling off and coming back. The error count is also increasing at bout the same interval. We tryed all sorts of different things to no avail, it was late so maybe we missed something.

Any ideas off the top of your heads?

Jeremy

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Any ideas off the top of your heads?

Just to confirm you have no trigger issues, try disconnecting the coils and cranking the motor, leaving one coil and plug connector to watch with a timing light. If you don't get trigger errors under cranking and the light is steady, it may simply be a post-start fueling issue.

-Neel

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It does sound like a fueling issue.

Do you have the fuel pump relay controlled directly by Vipec?

Also, try increasing master fuel scaling.

It could do that if main table is too lean.

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Do you have the fuel pump relay controlled directly by Vipec?

If you do not, I would absolutely recommend you do for two reasons:

1. This can prevent a fire in the result of an accident. Having seen a customer's car burn to the ground on its first test because a fuel line was left loose and the ECU did not control the fuel relay, I can assure you this is a real threat.

2. In case an injector sticks open, this will prevent hydro-locking your motor and bending a connecting rod. Again, I saw this happen when a chafed harness resulted in an injector sticking open and filling a motor with fuel. This was even worse because it was an ALMS P2 prototype where the mechanic left the fuel pump switch in the "service" position so even though the ECU controlled the pumps it was overridden....

Regards,

-Neel

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Thanks for the ideas guys!

It definitely was getting to much fuel, spark plugs were totally fouled. After we reduced the fuel there was still no luck, same thing as before but this time plugs not fouled in fuel. We also looked at the polarity of the triggers ans changes them around to see if there was any change and there was none.

I have been able to look at a stock harness and find the correct ways to hook up the Crank and cam sensor. Hope to check mine and make sure its hooked up right tonight.

When we were testing the timing with a light we would turn off the fuel and crank, lock the timing at 10deg. When we did this we would get about 1 out of 3 flashes of the light on the 10deg mark. We would also get no trigger errors when it was doing this. Now if you then turn on the inj and unlock the timing at try and start it the trigger errors mount up fast 20-30 in 10 sec of trying to start.

We were limited with what we were able to do the other night as we ran out of batteries to try and get the car going. I have since purchased a proper charger/jumper.

Tonight I am going to confirm we have the crank and cam triggers hooked up right and go from there.

I think my main problem is triggers and getting them sorted.

Jeremy

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Well as we expected the problem was with the triggers. It RUNS!!!!!!

The crank trigger was fine, the cam trigger how ever was pined revere polarity (the pins had been swapped at some point). Once we fixed that and set the timing at 10deg it fired right up with out problem. It started so easy it startled me and I turned it off right away LOL. I found I had a leaking injector so I called it a night, I need get a new O-ring and install it.

Once I get that dose its time to finish off the wiring and start tuning :D

Thanks for all the help guys!!!

Jeremy

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  • 8 months later...
  • 6 years later...

9Dear Scott ,

thanks a lot for your response ....

will actually i am almost done with my setup ... car is up and running ...

its the first project for me as follow 

  • running shell is e36 
  • engine is totally rebuilt 2jz button end with 1jz head ( ported and polished )
  • Extreme Link ECU black 
  • Sequential injection , Direct spark setup
  • Holset HX40 turbo 
  • 1200 cc injectors
  • E-throttle setup

car is running smoth and boast now is up to 1 Bar ( 200 KPA ) , I even start drag race with some of my friends to test it out ... and believe me its a beast ..:DB)

what i am interesting about is the triggers setup , simply i just want to double check it ,for the time being trigger setup is as follow :

  • stock crank wheel setup for 2jz GTE ( 12 tooth ) VR
  • Rear CAM shaft for sync .VR
  • Trigger calipration is as attached

 

I know that trigger setup could be verified by a timing light , unfortunately i don't have one 

A verification for my trigger setup would be highly appreciated 

thanks in advanced

 

Trig.JPG

Edited by Hatem Bakhiet
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