Nathan Pryor Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Hi All Tried to fire up the beast finally, just got a shed full of fuel, a bang out the exhaust (hope the turbo survived, it was a big one)and some muffles of an engine trying to fire. oh and the rev counter works when cranking but when trying to fire it stops completely. Sometimes when cranking it flies right off the scale??? Right, I know nothing of engines and Links, I simply hope to start it and drive (or trailer) to the tune shop on a reloaded map after supplying the link with cylinder info spark injector etc. Done all that and still no joy. Only change from factory is wasted spark conversion plus the usual other mods. I have preformed the initial set up as per the book. I think I have a timing issue. You have to treat me like a six year old here, and walk me through it. Unfortuantely the paid professionals in my area have their hands full for a good couple of weeks. The link is running MAP control and I intend to change that to MAP + TPS and perform a TPS span calibration. Any help appreciated, cheers Nathan Hastings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 OK, first things first... What ECU are you using? Sounds to me like you have a triggering issue, the ECU is having trouble measuring engine position... This could be becasue the CAS sensors are wired incorrectly or backwards or the trigger setup is wrong. Here is the first step of diagnostics: Disable fuel injection to stop the big bangs... Do this by setting fuel mode to OFF if using a G2/G3 ECU or unplug the injectors. Locate the Trigger Error Counter, Test RPM (or just RPM), Trigger 1 (YES/NO) and Trigger 2 (YES/NO) values in PCLink or on the tuning module. Crank the engine and observe all of these signals... Here is some trigger wiring information: Old ECU, LEM V5, LinkPlus V14, LinkPlus G2 - Trigger 1 = 6 slot CAS sensor, Trigger 2 = 360 slot CAS sensor G3 ECU's - Trigger 1 = 360 slot CAS sensor, Trigger 2 = 6 slot CAS sensor Here is some trigger setup information: Old ECU, LEM V5, LinkPlus V14 - Sync/Cyl ratio = 6, Sync Position = 4 (I think) Link Plus G2 - Trigger Mode = 1 Tooth Per TDC, Trigger 1 = Reluctor, Trigger 2 = Reluctor, Sync Position = 4 setup up sub-board swithces as in instructions G3 ECU's - Trigger Mode = Nissan ECCS... then follow ECCS setup in PCLink help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Pryor Posted March 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Hi Ashley Using an old school Link Plus. Been pretty busy at work, sorry for not getting back sooner. I have pulled all the fuses and bascically explored every menu and function via PC link and had a play with the sample programs. Trying to learn a little. With regards to starting, I haven't attemted again till I have my shit sorted out. Awaiting oil pressure sender that went faulty on me, then i'll check for trig errors. Please note that the little sub board is set up and I have 1 flash of the LED per 1 CAS rotation. I was just wondering about the Nissan factory Bosch O2 sensor. With power on the sensor to the heater wires and no CAS rotation, I have a reading on the Link of zero volts. Is this normal at atmosphere, ie no exhaust gases? (Closed loop lambda function is currently switched on)I will confess to droping it after a few beers and a massive session of dark side of the moon up at the shed sometime last year. Cheers Nathan Industrial electrician (just so you know im not all the way completely dumb) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Hmmm, I think from memory the O2 sensor will have a 0 volt output with no exhaust gas flow. Heating it without the engine runnning will do no harm. Dropping them doesn't do them any favors, but doesn't always kill them. Wait until your engine is up and running then worry about it. Best switch the CLL function off anyways... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Pryor Posted March 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 Hi Ashley, You were right, I have a triggering problem. Ran the diagnostic menu via PC link... Cyl pulse = present Sync pulse = present Cyl/Sync error = 200ish after a 5 sec crank. The rpm gauge on the gauges menu shows roughly 200rpm when cranking. Priority is set to sync. I cannot find the cyl/sync ratio adjustment anywhere in any menu??? Sequential fuel and multi coil modes are selected. I am running a LPV10b Link plus. Firmware version info 270202 Using PC link version 2.5 The subboard settings are Offset = 0 Sync = B (Guessing that's 11) I have again belled out the CAS wiring and it checks out as per the CAS schematic on this web site. Looking forward to your reply Thanks mate, Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 OK, I think we should start from the beginning... Did you buy the ECU new or second hand? Is it set up for your engine? What type of engine is it? .. oh, just spotted that in the forum title!!!What sub-board is fitted to the ECU? Tell me all numbers and writing you can find in the ECU.I have put you wrong, V10 software does not have a cyl/sync ratio... The problem is that the ECU isn't seeing the trigger pattern from the crank and cam angle sensors that it expects and therefore cannot decode engine position from it. That is why you are getting all the bangs and funny RPM signals. Three things are required to make the engine run: The correct sub-board is fitted.The sub-board is configured correctlyThe ECU is setup correctly (easiest one) We will start with number 1 to make sure the ECU has the right hardware for your engine. Let me know all numbers inside the ECU, also, do you know if it has the facotry CAS fitted or has it been replaced with one from a different engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Pryor Posted March 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Hi Ashley Apologies for cutting you off during our phone conversatioin on Friday, dirty pre pay phones. Success, did as you said, took 40 units off the master fuel, and managed to get hold of a tuning module to change the cyl/sync ratio. I still can't get the timing bang on (5deg off from factory setting) but it's close enough to impress my mates with the sound this thing makes. Next engine start will be at Lodge Auto centre for a tune and a tank of Av gas. On a side note, I have wired a hot wire switched from the ignition relay, to the link and this wire also feeds power onto the fuel and engine relay coils. Now when I switch off the engine the ign relay drops out but it appears I get a back EMF from the Link. It self powers itself keeping the fuel and engine relays engaged!!! It must be the noise or something generated within the link been sufficent enough to generate enough voltage to back feed my fuel and engine relays. I banged in another relay to solve the problem but it was a weird find. Is this something you guys know about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 Yeah, its a Nissan thing. You idle speed control solenoid will be back feeding through the ECU's fly wheeling diodes. Remove the hot feed (it is powered directly from the battery) from the ISC solenoid and supply it from somewhere that gets switched off when the key is off... If you have fixed it with a relay, then dont worry about it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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