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link lem v4 or v5 ?


Dan Allen

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Hello guys firstly let me introduce my self and my car . I should start by saying this is my first full management conversion , i have tuned with piggy back stuff before .My primera in its formerly n/a guise ran an aexi safc . The primeras turbo conversion is using s14 200sx crank , rods & pistons with arp rodbolts & headbolts , acl race main & rod bearings , cometic head gasket , modified head , hks 264 gtir cams , scooby 440cc injectors (to be run @ 4 bar & swapped for larger once the funds become avaliable ) t3/4 turbo with an external wastegate & a few other bits . Part way through the conversion my friend/tuning guru suggested i'd be better to run a standalone so i could ditch the distributor and run wasted spark for more advance/retard control. So i found a link lem v5 on ebay (previously fitted to an impreza ej20 ) so looking at the specs i decided for the money and my experience under the watchful eye of my friend , it would be an ideal first ecu that i could later upgrade once i find my feet .

 

Now for my questions :

i have the additional 4 pin connector on the ribbon side of the ecu, but upon removing the lid of the ecu the main chip has dv42v4  191112 on it which would lead me to believe its a v4 ?

& i now under stand the smaller pcb could be application specific ? Is there anyway to identify it ? (Main board has 2003/2 on it and smaller has 2004 ) is it possible i've bought a v4 converted to a v5 ? I'd really like it to be a v5 as i've already welded a boss into the boost pipe for the recommend iat & i'd really like to connect my aem uego wideband as well 

Any help would appretiated guys as well as information on were i could buy some link ecu decals for when i'm finished :)

post-4237-143621568126_thumb.jpg

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You have a late V4 G1 LEM.

The V5 was the only firmware to support the the extra connector.

The sub-board that is fitted to that unit is for a subaru EJ20 (pre the vvt motors)

You will need a sub-board change to suit the nissan and if you want wideband and IAT will also need a V5 upgrade.

[email protected] will be able to advise pricing.

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Thanks very much simon for your response , faultlessly answeared my questions , although being a pest i have another . I intend on running a trigger wheel mounted to my crank pulley & have seen 24 , 36/1 , 58 & 60 tooth trigger wheels i would really like to run wasted spark and understand that certian trigger wheel set ups are insufficient on their own & would require a second trigger ? could you possibly suggest a.trigger wheel / sensor combo that would allow wasted spark from the 1 trigger , i like to keep the top end of the engine clean as once its all working i may wire tuck the engine bay at a later date . Above all thanks for your help faultless tech support have messaged sales & hope to hear from them soon.

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Hi Dan

To work on a G1 unit you would have to go for the 60-2 trigger wheel.

The catch will be that we no longer have any of the required sub-boards to suit that trigger pattern.

You could use a 12 on the crank an a single tooth on a cam. But the easiest would be to retain the nissan CAS

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello simon

firstly sorry for the very late reply , i'd like to thank you for the excellent customer support on a product that you havent sold for years. I have decided to sell this ecu on & run the car in on a gtir ecu , whilst i save for a more modern link ecu ( a g3 or g4 ) . The customer support i have recieved has been unlike any i have recieved elsewere , not to mention the control & flexibilty of the newer link ecu's . I'm sure my car would benefit from launch control and some of the other features avaliable .

 

Thankyou for your help & i hope to look for advice on my next link set up soon

 

Dan

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