Dadoulis Paschalis Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 Hello! I'd like to know if Link G3 wire in version (not with plugin adapter) suits the 4e-fte engine! The included 2m loom suits this engine fine? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 No problems... The 2m loom is generic and is wired to your existing loom to get all the connectors you require... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadoulis Paschalis Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 Is there a way to find a plug and play adapter for my 4e-fte engine so as not to wire-in? Even by ordering from you somthing like this! Thanks for your quick response! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadoulis Paschalis Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 Isn't it quite the same with MR2 or I am making a big mistake? I really don't know! I don't have a problem paying you extra 165Euros And I can wait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted June 17, 2007 Report Share Posted June 17, 2007 If you were to order five adapters, then we might consider making one, but for now unfortunately there is nothing available. If you were to research the MR2 pinout and determine it was the same as yours then maybe we could do something, but as far as I know it is different... Pretty sure Starlets are always a wire in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Karaklis Posted June 28, 2007 Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 The mr2 is not the same... we want to install a G3 on a 4EFTE too. Do we need any of Link's extra sensors or just the ecu and wire-in harness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted June 28, 2007 Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 Just the ECU and wire-in harness. Check both engines are fitted with: Igniter/s, throttle position sensor, coolant temperature sensor and intake temperature sensor (you may have to fit one, they are important for a stable tune). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Karaklis Posted June 28, 2007 Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 the throttle position sensor will have to be changed, (the engine is a GT, they have the switch type sensors, glanzas have pontatiometers). In the manual says that the coolant temp sensor must be calibrated in the software...i guess i could either play with a thermometer or install one of the bosch sensors that are precalibrated. intake temp sensor is already on the intake manifold. Turns out i will have to buy the linkplus g3, cause the LEM supports only group injection too bad, the price was so nice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted June 29, 2007 Report Share Posted June 29, 2007 Yeah, that group injection thing is the key point between LPG3 and LEM G3. Although, it is mainly an emissions and economy thing. Sequential injection will not generally give you more power... It is 90% likely that the coolant temp sensor will work with one of the precalibrated sensor options and you wont need to do anything... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Karaklis Posted June 29, 2007 Report Share Posted June 29, 2007 Still, i dont like injecting fuel against a closed valve... Its only locical that on a 4cyl, even divided into two groups of injecting, group injection will eat up twice the fuel , right? . Our cars are street cars, so we're tuning for both economy and streetability, as well as performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted July 1, 2007 Report Share Posted July 1, 2007 You will find that a lot of factory systems inject fuel against a closed valve even with sequential injection. Typically injection ends about 360 degrees BTDC. It definitely does not eat twice the fuel. In some but not all cases an engine can run using less fuel at cruise and idle using sequential injection. Driveability and power are not really affected at all. Depends on cost it would take a long time to recover the cost of a sequential ECU in fuel savings, but I would personally use a sequential ECU coz im fussy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Karaklis Posted July 2, 2007 Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 yeah im fuzzy too (not in a hairy sort of way ) i've been reading the manual, and if i get this correctly, i can toss away the distributor and install a pair of coils (like msd) for direct ignition right? and maybe use the distributor rotor as a place for a crank angle sensor?... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted July 2, 2007 Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 You can use whatever kind of ignition you want, wasted spark, direct spark, MSD etc... The distributor will have all the triggering you require for any ignition mode and sequential injection. The distributor should have a 24 tooth and 1 tooth pickup (and maybe also a 4 tooth pickup). You need either 24 and 1 tooth, or 4 and 1 tooth pickups to run sequential injection and wasted or direct spark... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted July 29, 2007 Report Share Posted July 29, 2007 If it was a factory injected 4E-FTE (which it is due to the E in the engine code) then no additional sensors or coils will be required to run the ignition using the factory setup, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadoulis Paschalis Posted July 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Hello again! Please answer me about the five adaptors for which I sent a comment above! The manufacturing time and the lowered value invoice!! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadoulis Paschalis Posted July 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Also the price remains at 165 Euro each? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Sorry, I completely missed that post about ordering five adapters. Please deal directly with [email protected] on this.  Also send me a copy of the email so I can make sure he keeps on at it...  Development time depends on our ability to get accurate information and a test car. Production time is less than a week. Hello again! I'd like to know how fast these adaptors can be ready to be shipped out if I order five and if it is possible to send a lowered value invoice for example 50$ in total so as to avoid custom taxes!! Waiting for your answer so as to proceed with the order!! Thanks a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Conklin Posted August 12, 2007 Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 hello, jason from hiper developments, if you want i can help you build your own adapter for the 4e-fte as i have all the toyota ecu codes and i build a couple of that works great. if just done one this week with a linkplus g3. if you want you can e mail me at [email protected] cheers jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadoulis Paschalis Posted September 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2007 Hello there! I need a little bit of Help or you could say a lot of help! We've finally setuped LinkG3 ECU but athough sensors are reading ok something is wrong in our setup so the engine does not start! I''ve sent you as attachment my .pcl file (one in PClink 3.30 and one in Pclink 3.31) to tell me if something is wrong in our settings! Is there a need to replace the distributor with coils? I think no! I think we are mistaken in Distributor settings! I have a 24 and 1 tooth distributor! Fuel setup - Ignition setup - The most important Trigger Setup because I cannot get a correct signal for RPM! Thanks a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted September 18, 2007 Report Share Posted September 18, 2007 Trigger setup for a 24 and 1 distributor should be as follows: Trig 1 wired to 24 tooth with correct polarity.Trig 2 wired to 1 tooth with correct polarityTrigger Mode = Multi ToothMulti-tooth location = CamTooth Count = 24Sync Pulse = CamTrigger 1 = Reluctor, Filter level 1. Arming voltages like 0.3, 1, 1.5, 2 etc...Trigger 2 = Reluctor, Filter level 2. Arming voltagets like 0.3, 1, 1.5, 2 etc...Ignition Mode = DistributedDwell Edge = Rising  That should pretty muchly be enough to make it go assuming it is all wired correctly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 OK. Here is how you will wire the crank angle sensors: Trig 1 wires to NETrig 2 wires to the single tooth pulse, not the 4 tooth pulse which is usually G1 I think.Both the 24 tooth and 1 tooth senor must be grounded! Wire G- to the ECU's green sensor ground! I think you have not done this.G2 is not usually used.STA is of no use unless you wire it to a digital input for the post crank prime function. To test triggering. Look at the Triggers runtime vales and check that they say YES when cranking. Check that the RPM value is stable and about correct (usually 100-200 RPM at crank).  Check that the trigger error counter does not keep incrementing (you may get one or two counts on the first engine revolution). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadoulis Paschalis Posted September 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 I'll check it out today first thing in the morning and I'll let you know! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadoulis Paschalis Posted September 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 Perfect! Always perfect! It started immediately! All the hard work was the G-! Thanks a lot! I'll let you know if something seems difficult in the setuping! Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadoulis Paschalis Posted October 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2007 Hello there! One more question that came up! I can see that I cannot control the polarity of a GP output! Is it right what I can see? Does it always give one polarity? Or am I wrong to something? I fully understand the conditions and other stuff there! It's only the polarity that I cannot find! If you could help me again it would be perfect! Thanks again and again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 If you fully understand the conditions, then you will understand that to reverse the polarity of the appropriate conditions, to reverse the polarity of the output eg: Conditions: ECTÂ > 50 AND ECT < 90 will give an output that is ON (pin low)Â when temp is between 50 and 90 degrees, and OFF (pin high) when temp is above and below that range. Conditions: ECTÂ < 50 OR ECT > 90 will give an output that is OFF (pin high)Â when temp is between 50 and 90 degrees, and ON (pin low) when temp is above and below that range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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