Guest |330| Posted April 26, 2009 Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 Started fitting the rad and intercooler, the bumper isnt mounted but just hung on there so I can see how much space I had to do the intercooler. Then put the camera in my back pocket and guess it got switched on at some point so this is the only pic I have. Got bored with that so switched to mounting other things in the car like the dash, hand brake, wipers, rear lights and started on the wireing. The dash is so far away once your sitting so I think the switch panel is going to end up in the center area infront of the shifter. Made a quick mount just to see and may just keep it. Simple little aluminum panel, 6 switches and a start button. Still need to find a place to mount the kill switch and just cant find a good place for it. The hood is so high in the back, and there isnt much space under the fender to mount it ether. I may just end up drilling a hold in the 1/4 panel and sticking it there. Going to hate it but at least you can see it. The small things take so much time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted April 26, 2009 Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 The quicky switch panel... Went out and picked up some stainless brake line and started on that. Since the abs things are gone, needed to also pick up some T fittings and tie the stuff together. Here is the front. I was originally going to T the rear in the same place since it runs double lines and I already put those back in, but after looking at the rear again, decided to just T off the rear and I'll take the other rear brake line out when the fuel lines go in. Looks like I'll be getting a twin disk setup from competition clutch soon for the R154. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted April 26, 2009 Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 Mishimoto sent me one intercooler, I took a look at it and was like, its too small. Emailed them back and asked if it was possible to get another one. "What for" they ask. "I'm going to try and double it up, looks too small for 1000hp, I'll show pics, I promise", Mishimoto "Ok, send Alex one more." So they sent me another intercooler, this time in black. So, which way to make this thing bigger, was thinking first of making it double thick, put one infront the other since alot of the supra's run like 4" thick cores. Then thought of going double as long since the front of the car is so wide, problem was the frame rails are a bit low and would have to cut those out. Then was thinking of making it double tall, like the size of the rad. Then a friend was like "just make it taller" so yeah, here is how it went. start with 2 intercoolers... Cut the end tanks off the black one. Pic of the inside... Then trimed the black one up the the first core area. Cut the other end tanks but left the hose ends still on it. Then measured how much space I had in the front of the car and took a chunk out of the aluminum core. You can see it sitting up there by itself, and welded up the corners. As you can see, its now the full height of the rad, kinda like diesel truck style. Still need to trim down a few things like that hood latch area and the high beams, then it will be nice and tight in there. I just hope there will be enough clean air to keep the water temp down now that I filled alot of it up with this thing. Still need to finish up the end tanks but probably do that when its time for the pipeing. Thanks Mishimoto! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted April 26, 2009 Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 Picked up the brakes today from Rotora and did a quick test fit. Then helped the guys clean shop at G-Dimension. Having a garage sale this weekend (4/25 and 4/26) from about 10 am till about 5. Tons of sr20det parts and a bunch of random things. I'll be there on sat for sure, dont know about sunday yet. If your not doing anything and want to check out the car, the address is 817 lawson st, 91748. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 Did a few things. Got the head back, then started on shimming the valves. Ordered a bunch of shims from toyota so hopefully get those soon. The valve lash is pretty much the only thing keeping me from putting the motor together and sticking it in the car. Then finished up the brake lines and did the clutch line. Got bored since I'm waiting for parts, so started on the electrical again. Think I'm going to throw away the original switch panel and made one on the dash cause it looked too empty. Used some thick carbon fiber sheet and cut it out to fit the little area in the middle. O yeah, thats the steering wheel off my ae86, it fit the sc. Just going to leave it on there till I find a replacement since it looks better then the stock one. Started on the main circuit board. Thinking of running it behind the switch panel basicly on the firewall pretty much. That way the wires are rather hidden. Not sure if I like it yet. May redo it like alot of things I end up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |273| Posted May 1, 2009 Report Share Posted May 1, 2009 Very nice Subscribed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted May 1, 2009 Report Share Posted May 1, 2009 cool, didnt know anyone looked at this post yet. Clutch came in today. Competition Clutch really came threw. When they said it was a complete kit, they were right, this has to be the most complete clutch setup I've seen. Came with everything including a slave and clutch line. Converts from pull to push style, twin disk, light flywheel. I weighed it earlier and think it was 23lbs with the flywheel and clutch together. Best part is its a tight diameter clutch so it drops down the rotating mass of it. Should make the motor perky. Also picked up the shims for the head and got to work on that for a few hours. Pretty happy now that the head and the rest of the parts are ready to go together. Just need to line up the DVD filming and should be in the car soon. I did finally find a spot to stick the damn kill switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |273| Posted May 2, 2009 Report Share Posted May 2, 2009 How much does it cost to powdercoat the shell? Thanks Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted May 2, 2009 Report Share Posted May 2, 2009 That was the cheep part. It was only $650. Mike over there at Ikon said they havent charged anyone over $850 to do a chassis and they have done all kinds of sand rails and off road truck type machines. For me, I started off working on porsche race cars and we would powder coat the chassis but usually just a single stage color like silver. This is the first time I tried a 2 stage with the candy coating. It looks good and I'm really happy with it. Plus its way cheeper then paint. Dropped off the clutch at Speed O Motive to get ballanced. Figured since the crank was ballanced, needed to make sure the flywheel and clutch was too. Come to find out it was good so no worries there. Moved the switches to the center dash peice. They look alot better, just hope I can reach them. Mounted the ViPEC V88 (ecu) in the center of the trans tunnel. Should be easier to wire up from there. Anyone got a stock guage cluster? I need to mount the guages and dont feel like having to create something to fill that hole. Seats still for sale. Only a few things left to find, some 1000cc injectors are the main things I need right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |201| Posted May 2, 2009 Report Share Posted May 2, 2009 This is such an awesome build!!!! I'm super impressesd with the powder coating, looks great. You are going to love the V88 on your car! What tranny are you running? Jeremy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted May 3, 2009 Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 I wasnt able to find a 6 speed at a good price so unfortunatly I'm stuck with a r154. Not sure how well it will hold up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 Back to business. Turbo came in. Bullseye s368 T-4 .88ar, BEP 68mm compressor wheel, S300 68mm 2.5 BEP inlet bell. I dont know what any of that means, Dan said it would spool pretty quick and make 800 to 900hp depending on boost, thats all I needed to hear. Now I need to find the v band and fitings and such. Going to hopefully be finishing up the dvd soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |273| Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009  I cant wait to see your car in action. It's 1am in Chicago and I just come home from re-tuning my drifter using plug in ViPec for SR20 It's a stock S14 with ARP head studs, Eagle rods, Tomei cams and a better head gasket. We maxed out stock injectors at 338RWHP and about 19 PSI Greg PS. I turned on ALS but the guy who did the tuning/driving was unsure what was happening. He liked the responsiveness thou. See vid. On the Dyno standing 5 ft away it was beyond loud. Loudest thing I've ever witnessed and I've been to Slayer concert years ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |201| Posted May 7, 2009 Report Share Posted May 7, 2009 I wasnt able to find a 6 speed at a good price so unfortunatly I'm stuck with a r154. Not sure how well it will hold up. That's what I have hooked to my 2j but I will not be making any were the power you will. I would keep an eye open for a V160 if I were you lol. I'm interested in the clutch you have and how it works out. I had a CC clutch on my 1jz and it was just a single Iron replacement and there max PP but it completely destroyed my Flywheels and would not hold 400whp. I wish you better luck, and hope you do not have problems with this clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted May 7, 2009 Report Share Posted May 7, 2009 Yeah I hope so too. It wasnt cheep and dont feel like buying another one. Worked on the motor, pretty much done with the dvd other then maybe getting a dyno shot when its finally running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted May 16, 2009 Report Share Posted May 16, 2009 Last week went out to streets of willow. Lots of cool cars and cool people. I did get to watch an s14 kinda run over an atom. It was pretty interesting to say the least but I still cant find video of it. Sorry I havent updated in a little bit. Been getting home real late and been spending more time on customer stuff then my own laitly. I did however get the motor in. The famous Andy Yen ladies and gentlemen helping out with the turbo. Wicked 1 on clublexus saw that I needed the stock guage cluster and sent me one. Thank You Wicked 1!! Pulled the insides of it out and made a backing plate out of carbon sheet, then had this tach from one of my old cars and figured why not have the most famous a biggest tach you can get in there. Took a little bit of work triming it out and I still feel fiberglass in my arms. More guages will be added but this is just a taste. Picked up a new steering wheel from Sparco, and some seat brackets. Mounted the drivers seat and took it back out cause I dont want it to get too dirty just yet. Goes back to K&W Autobody in a couple days. Should have the paint finished and start working on the graphics soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 In the booth, spraying the frost. Then clearing the front. Got the car back in the shop The frost that they used on the car is kinda like a metalic that you only see in certain light. You get that glittery look, just dont see the glitter. Here is a closer pic of the hood after and you cant even see it in the pictures but in real life it has a sparkle to it. Also Casper was kind enough to kick down some of his coopers so I mounted those things up, threw the brakes on the car, and took off the shocks to check wheel fitment and such. Turns out these +1 offsets may be too aggressive for not having a widebody. It really stressed me out when I put the car down. Got a few options right now like change the wheels, run smaller tires, make all new control arms or mod the original ones. Only time will tell whats going to happen next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Got a few questions for this forum specificly and instead of starting a post, wanted to just ask for help in this one. With the V88, do I need to run peak and hold injectors? (or more like whats is suggested to run) Looking for something around 1000cc. Since I have such a large fuel pump, was planning on running it at 2 levels, I do have the factory toyota fuel pump controller but wanted to know if there was a low lvl voltage output or is there a different way to set that up. Can I set multiple maps on the ecu and beable to switch between them. Reason why I ask is sometimes we end up at events where gas isnt so good (mexico) and there is no real way to tune for it at the track. Also local events would probably be using c16 while out of state it pretty much comes down to whats available. Switching between boost levels and timing maps would really help. Has anyone run wasted spark on the stock 2jz coils? Did they work? I dont have the stock ignition box, but do have the aem ignition box but its only 4 chanels, which means to use that one, I would have to run wasted spark. I'm missing a map sensor and need a 5 bar one if you guys have some suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hic Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 With the V88, do I need to run peak and hold injectors? (or more like whats is suggested to run) Looking for something around 1000cc. You can run ANY injector available on the market. Since I have such a large fuel pump, was planning on running it at 2 levels, I do have the factory toyota fuel pump controller but wanted to know if there was a low lvl voltage output or is there a different way to set that up. Which pump do you have exactly? Can I set multiple maps on the ecu and beable to switch between them. Reason why I ask is sometimes we end up at events where gas isnt so good (mexico) and there is no real way to tune for it at the track. Also local events would probably be using c16 while out of state it pretty much comes down to whats available. Switching between boost levels and timing maps would really help. Yes you can, Just wire-in one of the exsitsing digital inputs, select 4D/5D, overlay or dual tables (many options available as you can see), and with a flip of the switch you can have everything you can think of! Has anyone run wasted spark on the stock 2jz coils? Did they work? I dont have the stock ignition box, but do have the aem ignition box but its only 4 chanels, which means to use that one, I would have to run wasted spark. Yes they work in wasted spark, no problems. I'm missing a map sensor and need a 5 bar one if you guys have some suggestions. Use the one that Ray sells with vipec! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 Thanks for the answers, I have this pump http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |201| Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 Thanks for the answers, I have this pump http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku That pump will run out of steam at about 800whp so if your goals are higher I would look at something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted May 28, 2009 Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 I would like more just to say I have it, but in all reality, with street tires and drifting, even 600hp is more then enough. The longer this build is taking, the more nervous I'm getting about keeping the motor together. Think I'm going to make 2 maps and use an aftermarket boost controller. That way I can turn down the boost quickly depending on the track. Run one map for good gas and one map for crappy gas. Working on the suspension, here is the angle with the spindles cut about an inch. Worked on getting the front end together, I kinda want to run some zuse fasteners or something so I can take off the bumper faster, but those high beams are held in on the same bolts as the top of the bumper. Went out to G&J and picked up all the fuel line fittings and such. Mr. Yen has some time laitly and is helping me with the build so we started on the fuel stuff. Ran the hard lines under the car. We decided the best place to put the fuel pressure reg would be to kinda hide it pretty much under the intake mani. One word of advice if you ever work with Andy, keep him away from teflon tape! Fuel pump and cell in the trunk. Not many other places to stick it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |201| Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 Why not use the boost control built into the V88 to control boost? Have it on a switch so that you can quickly flip from low to high boost and so on. I bet you could even make a radiostat so you could turn the boost up/down on the fly. I plan on having the V88 control my boost and also have a high/low switch on the dash and an on off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 Its just so that I can control hp output on the fly. For the pro events, we dont get many practice laps so being able to adjust the car and fast is usefull. I dont know if this is possible but was thinking of setting boost by throttle possition. Sorry for the lack of updates. Without a working Tig, there wasnt much to do. Now that I can get back to welding, things should be going a bit faster. Finished up the intercooler and mounted it. Here is a pic from last week when Andy and I were playing with the suspension. At this point the body kit would be on the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest |330| Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Started on the exhaust. Wasnt exactly sure how I should run it. The outlet on the turbo is 3.5" and the wheel is kinda tight in there. So was thinking of going 3.5 vband and up it to a 4" down pipe, then spit it to twin 3". Reason being is with the tight radius bends on the down pipe, it kinda needs larger OD to keep the flow. Then running twin 3", its just cheeper and easier to get 3" tubing and gives me more ground clearance. Also started on the hot pipe. For more room I cut the outlet on the turbo and welded on a new end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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