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Igniter question on a Subaru Impreza MY93 to 96.


Andrew Conway

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Hi I have just bought the G3 and after reading the manual it suggests you fit igniters before the coil packs to help control the dwell. Does anyone know if the coil packs already have igniters built into them so i can just wire each unit direct to the ECU. I was think of wiring each coil pack separately to each Ign port on the ECU, is this the best way or should i wire them in pairs to Ign 1&2 and use Ing 3&4 to control the fans. Secondly, I was going to use the 5v out for the constant feed to the TPS. But i also need a 5v feed for the ISC. Can i wire both units to the same 5 v output or is there a different way of doing it. Many Thanks Andrew

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OK, firstly, you DO NOT need 5V out for the ISC.  In fact that would be a very bad idea.  ISC will already be powered by the EFI main relay.  You will only need +5V for the TPS on that engine. 

My advice would be to buy an AdaptaLink and just plug in and go.  But, if you want to do a wire in, then you can open the appropriate base map for your car in PCLink and wire the same as that. 

If you have four coils you can wire one to each ignition drive through an igniter.  If the coil packs have wires coming out of them rather than a plug on them then they do not have internal igniters.  The car would have a factory fitted igniter (usually on the right strut tower) that can run from the ECU.  If you want extra outputs, you can pair the igniter inputs and just use two ignition channels (but best use four channels).

If you have a wasted spark coil pack on top of the manifold with HT leads to the spark plugs, and three wires chances are that it will need an igniter too.

Igniters are not fitted to control dwell, that is the ECU's job.  They are there to drive the high current and deal with the high voltages involved with spark generation so that the ECU doesn't have to do it...

If you be more specific about the engine you are wiring to, I can probably give more detailed help.  Turbo, non turrbo, 4 coils, 2 bolt coils, 1 bolt coils etc...

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Im guesing you are still using the early style single bolt two wire coils   in this case you will need an appropriate igniter

you will need 5v to the tps  but the idle control motor needs 12v not 5v

if you can wire each coil individually

Regards

Dave

[email protected]

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Hi Ashley and Dave Thanks for the reply's. My car is a turbo'd GC8 engine running 8.5:1 compression, i have fitted high lift cams and vernier pullies. I am still running the standard inlet manifold, ISC and coil packs. The coils are single bolt coils, one on each spark plug with two wires coming out of each coil pack. I have choosen to build a loom for the engine rather than use an adaptalink as i feel i have a problem with the standard car loom as i already own a old link which is a plug n play but the coils wont spark when cranking, but if i refit the cars standard ECU then they do. (strange isnt it) I have found a diagram regarding the ISC in technical and have wired it the correct way now thanks. If you could direct me to the appropriate base map for my car in PCLink that would be great as i am struggling to find any wiring diagrams Do you know what the dwell setting is for this type of coil packs. Any info which could help would be greatly appricated. Thanks Andrew

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Hi I have a quick question regarding wiring in the standard Subaru Turbo igniter. The igniter has four ports on one side and five on the other. Now the fifth wire is the ground but which side of the igniter goes to the coil packs and which side is the feed in from the ECU. One side is labeled I1 to 4 and the other side labeled E1 to 4. Thanks Andrew

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Hi Ashley In an earlier post you have told me to use a V1-2 base map from the adaptor link, i can not find that base map anywhere on the Link Site. My old link was a Possom Link and the maps wont work on the LEM. Can you send me a base map so i can at least get my settings correct and hopefully start. Thanks Andrew. Ps If there is anyone out there with maps for a MY 93-96 turbo motor would you send me your maps to have a look at. Thanks Again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Ashley I have got my engine to run and both trigger's are saying yes. The error count climbs on crank and is stable on idle at any time but will increase as i try to rev the car. The car will not rev instead holding back and we are seeing both backfire and afterfire. we believe we may have a cam timing issue as we are on custom cams with vernier pulleys but we see massive flusctuations on screen on rpm from say 1200 to 4000. only quick blips like a signal error or something. when we try to open throttle the rpm pickup goes everywhere. We have tried the standard factory pulley on the cam with the timing marks to see if that was the issue and still have the problems Have you any idea's of what this can be. Cheers

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Yup, thats what I would say.  check you have wired your crank and cam sensors with the correct polarity.  Make sure that the arming threasholds are not too high.  Subaru's seem to have weak sensors that do not produce a lot of amplitude...  It is more likely to be sensor polarity.  Makes sure you determine sensor polarity scientifically, don't just swap them randomly to see if it fixes it...

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Test sensor polarity with either a multi meter or preferably an oscilloscope  with a multi meter hook your test leads to the sensor and touch the sensor on a steel object (a bolt will do) if the voltage goes poitive when touching and negative when you remove it then the positive test lead is connected to the terminal which should go to the signal wire (trig 1/2 input)

dash temp gauges use a seperate single wire sensor you will find this sensor in the water cross over pipe on top of the block hidden under the inlet manifold

Regards

Dave

www.dtechmotorsport.com

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Ashley I have hard wired the trigger wiring and have the polarity the correct way but i am still seeing high flutuation on the revs then the car is running. Now if i set the base map config to ver7-9 in stead of ver1-2 then the revs are steady but the engine will not spark or fuel. What can i do to either get the car to run on the ver7-9 or to stop the rev's flutuating on ver1-2. thanks Andrew

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You need to go through trigger setup from scratch.  Are you 100% sure the polarity is correct, have you checked polarity with a scope?  If you have unstable triggering then the problem will be that the pulses are not coming in at the expected time, or there are extra pulses due to interference. 

The most important thing to check is for trigger errors.  If the trigger error counter is incrementing, then there is a problem.  Also make sure your arming voltages are not too high for trigger 1 and 2.

We need to determine what triggering arrangement your engine has.  Is the cam belt timing correct?  Subaru V1-6 triggering is well and truly tried and tested, so we just need to work out what in your application is upsetting it...

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