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muzzytt

Toyota 2jzgte electric throttle

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I've wired up the fury

Double checked and I'm having issue getting both tpd main and sub tracking together in other words 1 doesn't match the other its some toyota way of reading the sensors. 

 

I was told to wire both main and  sub  together so both channels get the same reading but this is not safe as it won't detect a stuck throttle? 

 

What is your take on this. 

 

Regards

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Hi Muzzy

It the TP signals that are not tracking or the FP?

On the Toyotas its common to have to adjust the FP sub 100 value to around 65%

TP on the other hand is normally ok.

You have the e throttle clutch engaged and the plate is moving through the full travel?

 

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ok the tps main + sub Fps main + sub is wired in as per this old pdf from the vipec days.

I double checked it and its as the document has it.

previously I had the tps main connected to both an volt 6 and 7 so the one signal was feeding both tps main and sub so all the signal looked all good to the ecu as both inputs where seeing the same signal making it look linear.

so both the tps sub and fps sub coming from the throttle was not connected to anything on the vipec. and this arrangement has worked well. however I was told by my tuner that this is not a safe method and that if throttle got stuck it wouldn't shut down.

so after upgrading to the Fury I wanted to implement the proper way.

 

so I am encountering the ecu throwing codes of tracking errors and its limiting the engine speed to 1800rpm.

 

ok so I had a play with the calibration and while in setup mode the tp main goes up to 100% car starts and pedal works. once I get out of setup and select ON in the menu I no longer get to 100% the reading stops at 30%.

so any ideas on this or should I just go back to how it was before ?

 

I have uploaded some images from the calibration process.

 

cheers

 

 

 

 

toyotasupravvt-i-v88-adpt.pdf

Facebook-20150810-095831.jpg

Facebook-20150810-095733.jpg

Facebook-20150810-095759.jpg

Facebook-20150810-100707.jpg

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I tried swapping with no great difference. 

 

I tried changing the fp main values  

Awapped the tp main and sub around makes no difference. 

For some reason when it is calibrating the tps main on the last step the tps sub signal is all the way up top with tps main at about 60%.

 

Here a small vid to see the calibration process. 

 

Fury e throttle  setup: https://youtu.be/D8uw8iIWulk

 

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I'm starting to think the TPS sensor could be faulty at this stage Ive attached the voltage readings as checked tonight ...Ive attached some pics.

This is with e throttle  setup on  with no throttle applied. 

received_10154111720484829_zpsdu7ol1vq.j

Edited by muzzytt

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This is with e throttle  setup on with full throttle applied..

 

Soon as we get out of this setup it does not work and throws a code. 

 

received_10154111721309829_zps6v4hjdx0.j

Edited by muzzytt

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TOYOTA_DBW.thumb.gif.76fcba78657621708e6Hi Muzzytt,

it still appears as though your FPS SUB and MAIN are back to front.

Your foot pedal sub seems to always have a higher voltage.

Right click on your AN VOLT 6,7,8,9 select properties and rescale to 5 volts, not that it really matters.

Does your DBW setup look the same as my attached picture, or does it have an actual DBW pedal and no cable.

A value of 60 as a derivative gain seems very high also.

Regards

Dave.

Edited by Dave Kriedeman
added information

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Dave

 

Yes it's exactly the same system as in the picture. 

A cable operated fps .

I've tried numerous settings nothing makes any change its always the same result once i switch to on straight away it goes into fault code. 

 

Dave i have a 1uz vvti electric throttle body in my possession I'll connect that up and do some tests on that they use the same plugs. 

 

I'll also change the deritive gain to 25 as suggested in the help files .

 

Anything else you want to me to change? 

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Ok i give up lol i plugged in my 1uz throttle body same result. 

Plugged in v8 tps same result. 

Tested the tps and fps sensor with ohm meter both within factory specs. 

 

Might just go back to how it was seems no one in the world has successfully implemented this .

 

Bugger

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Oh i also noticed after calibration that it reaches 100 percent throttle reading way before it actually does on the throttle body. 

When it reaches  100% on the laptop reading there's still about 15 percent more to go till i reach throttle plate stop .

This by turning the fps on the engine by hand. 

 

 

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Hi Muzzytt,

These DBW setups are very similar to the Nissan TB 48 DBW , where you actually have to carry out the sensor calibration by hand to a degree unfortunately.

You obviously need to be very careful when doing this.

The problem is the fact that the cable moves only so far to trigger the input to the factory ecu and then the factory ecu takes over throttle control, NORMALLY.

The stock ECU accounts for all of this as the engineers have programmed for it.

However we as tuners must replicate for this.

There are a couple of ways to do this.

One is to disconnect the positive wire only to the DBW motor.

Proceed with the FPS Calibration by moving the throttle cable itself, take note of where it stops effecting the throttle blade itself, then continue to open the throttle blade physically to approx. 90 - 95 % , I never go to full horizontal plane open as this could trend towards a mechanical seizure of the blade.

Then close the Throttle blade to the Throttle stop screw, press F4 and save to the ECU , that is your FPS done.

Now the same is required for the TPS, the problem here is you must fully drive the throttle blade open and closed physically by hand at the rate at which the software wants to see the changes.

This can be tricky.

The second option which I do is keep the DBW motor powered after the FPS calibration has been physically done at the throttle body.

When the ECU goes into calibration mode and shuts the blade, I push the blade to the throttle stop position until the screen says that it will track for full throttle, when this prompt comes up I push the top of the throttle blade to 90 -95% position.

While doing this procedure, which by the way, don't try this at home kids,

 I keep my finger favouring the centre of the throttle blade but on the bottom side of the shaft to close the blade and then the top side of the shaft to open the blade.

This minimises the chances of loosing a finger, well hurting it bad anyway.

Sometimes this may take a couple of goes until you get it right, but unfortunately that is all you can do if you wish to retain this setup.

Let me know how you go, also, DON'T FORGET TO HOOK POWER BACK UP to the DBW MOTOR or you will HATE ME, ha ha.

Regards

Dave.

 

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Hi Dave

 

Thanks for the tips looks like I'll be having fun today. 

 

Reading your notes on the fps calibration regarding where the blade stops well not sure on Nissan system but the toyota fps doesn't do anything until the last 15% for limp home feature if the electric throttle fails. 

Fun and games

 

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