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jonnyt80

Trigger scope Duratec V6

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Afternoon 

managed to get some more wiring done and got the triggers installed.

i gave the car a turn over to check my signals.

trigger 1 voltage looks a bit low but could be down to the battery.

trigger 2 

has been setup as cam level but looks more like a pulse in the 720 cycle.

again voltage is low so may have to run the sheilded wire all the way to the sensor.

any comments would be greatly appreciated

 

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Hi ,

trigger 2 signal or sync does appear to be down on voltage at 0.33 volts AC , but a slow cranking engine or excessive air gap will create that on a sine wave or AC generated signal.

You would have to lower your trigger 2 arming voltage very low and have the filters on 1 or off to read a higher voltage, however this would lead to possible bad signals once the engine fires and the rpm increases.

Please recharge your battery and check you have good earths and carry out another scope capture.

The initial falling edge of trigger 2 is clean but the rising edge is very strange with steps etc.

Regards

Dave.

Edited by Dave Kriedeman
added information

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hi david

i have lowered the arming voltage as low as it goes which is 0.2 when this snapshot was taken.

all my earths seem good but i will go over them again. The battery is on charge so ill give it another go during the week. Only issie with the sensor is its a fixed fitting where i cannot alter the gap. At present the wiring is connected through the car loom but i may just run the sheilded wire all the way to the cam sensor. Car starts and runs off the original ecu but i know the link is a bit more sensitive.

on checking for trigger errors there are none present and both triggers turn green  when cranking so the ecu is definatly seeing a signal albeit a very low voltage.

how does trigger look?

 

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Hi jonnyt80,

Do you get an rpm value when cranking under runtime values.

It is in the left lane number one position and your trigger 1 and 2 are in the middle column.

You should see an RPM of roughly 180 - 250 rpm or similar.

Regards

Dave.

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Hi Jonnyt80,

Can you please post your PCL file so we can have a look.

Trigger 2 is not correct.

Even though you get YES, YES TRIG 1 and 2 and RPM, Trigger 2 has a very strange wave form for a mag reluctor, it appears as though it is trying to send out a digital square wave on AC SINE.

Regards

Dave.

 

Edited by Dave Kriedeman

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Have now swapped the polarity on the sensor. Voltage is still low but the car did cough a few times but sounds like my timing is wrong. Im using a vw 1.8t ignition amplifier with the ford dummy coil. Bosch number finishing 211. Have played with the trigger offset but to no avail

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No its a fixed gap as the sensor fits onto the timing case unfortunatly

Have also swapped the sensor off another car and its the same. Going to do more checks later

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Any chance of filing the sensor mount to reduce the gap? This is something I did recently on my vehicle to improve the signal strength at cranking.

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Ill need to see how thick the timing case is to guage if its an option. If not whats the cons on running multipoint as opposed to sequential on this 3.0l N/A engine

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The main con will be the response of the engine to changes in acceleration. However the multi-point group injection mode does have 'wake-up injection available which does help improve response. 

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Ok i have given up on getting a cam signal for now till i find a suitable alternative.

Im going to go with Multipoint fuel setup.

According to the datasheet the firing order is

1-4-2-5-3-6 on my engine

Whats the best way for setting them up for multipoint injection?

I was thinking

1-2-3    4-5-6 on 2 injection drives if thats possible or does it need to be even and odd?

Thanks

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