Hall Effect voltage

[lostsoul]

I have fitted a GT101 Hall Effect Sensor as Crank Trigger Sensor on a z32 300zx  ... 

Although the car runs there is no rpm being seen by the ECU, there is a "Trig1 error" with the code "AN T1 at 5v"

Do I need to adjust the Fault Settings for "AN T1 Error High" from the default 4.95v to slightly higher than what the sensor is actually seeing which is 12.4v ... the senor documentation states the sensor needs 8+ volts. 

Or should I ditch the GT101 and fit a Reluctor  sensor?

Thanks.

Edited October 24, 2015 by lostsoul

[Dave Kriedeman]

Hi lostsoul,

the error you have AN T1 = Analogue temp 1 which is either your air temp sensor or coolant temp sensor.

The GT 101i have used many as crank triggers without issues.

What ECU are you using, the GT 101 will handle 12 volts but really should be powered via 8 volt trigger supply, which is normally PIN A6.

Regards

Dave.

[lostsoul]

Hi Dave,

I am using the G4 GTR/GTS Plugin ecu.

Basically I replaced the Crank Sensor you installed for me because it had come in contact with the Trigger Wheel and I had dropped it. I was getting funny rpm readings etc so thought it maybe damaged.

Any way, I have wired the new one exactly as the old one was ... there has been a new EFI loom fitted (every alteration has been copied from the old to the new) ... starting to drive me to drink :-(

I will have another look at things tonight ... so to be clear, I am looking for a 8 volt supply and changing the "Fault Settings" to from the current 4.95 volts to over 8 volts?

Cheers

Nigel

[Steve]

Nigel. The faultsettings have nothing to do with the triggers. In ANT the T refeers to one of the TEMP sensor inputs as David mentioned earlier. Not Trigger inputs. Make sure the middle wire on the GT 101 (i think it is the middle wire that provides the triggersignal?) goes to Trigger 1 on the ECU.  (Use a 3 wire shielded cable!) The ground (-) on the sensor goes to one of the ground/sensorground inputs on the ecu. It does not matter wich one cause they are all connected to the same place inside the ECU. The + goes to one of the sensor 5/8/12v outputs on the ECU. Connect the sheild on the ECU end ONLY to one of the ground pins.

What do you use for cam sync? AEM disk in the CAS? Actually what trigger setup do you run now all in all?

Edited October 25, 2015 by Steve

[lostsoul]

Hi Steve,

Currently have the GT101 connected as you have suggested with regard to the sensor and ground wires ... the power is on the ECU PIN 59 which is suppling 12volts. I cannot find any info on which output supplies 8volts.

The cam sync is the CAS with a modified factory disk.

Current trigger setup is the CAS as the cam ref/sync and the Hall Effect is the Crank ref/trigger with a 24-1 wheel ... the setup has been running fine until after a camshaft change during which I noticed the Hall Effect Sensor had come in contact with the wheel and I had dropped it while removing it, the car just wasn't running right with funny rpm readings e.g. 14500rpm recorded and afr getting really rich after 5000rpm ... so decided to place the EFI Harness and the Hall Effect Sensor.

The engine does running but am not getting any rpm reading via the ECU except occasionally when cranking the engine at startup but the nothing.

Have found the ECT Sensor is faulty which will account for the AN T1 error.

Cheers

Nigel

[Steve]

Hm Sounds like you should get the triggers scoped.

You obviously calibrated timing after your cam change, right?

[lostsoul]

Trigger 1 was re-calibrated after cam change.

Am I to assume, having the GT 101 power connected to PIN 59 ( factory power supply to the CAS) is correct?

[Steve]

Factory supply SHOULD be good, yes.

It isnt by any chance possible that the cam sync signal is now happening "on top" of the 24-1 wheels missing thooth? Or very close to it?
Scope would be very handy... You know the G4+ have a triggerscope built in

The problems surfaced the moment you changed the cams, right? Ran just fine prior?

Edited October 25, 2015 by Steve

[lostsoul]

Yes, the problems did start after the cam change ... was running really well prior to that. Only decided to change the cams for something "bigger" because I had it apart to change cam and crank seals ... that'l learn me !

Could I try moving the CAS position and re-calibrating Trigger 1 ?

I had considered upgrading to the G4+ ... but where does it end ;-)

[Steve]

Moving the cas doesnt have an effect on trigger 1 as you have a -1 wheel on the crank (Unless the triggerevents happen on the same time). So yes you could try to move it to one end or the other and se if it helps.. Re-calibration doesnt hurt anyway, so yeah, why not.

Dude, it never ends.

Just came to think, You are running a G4 plugin? Those aint running a 6 cyl sequential but rather wastespark/injection? It got 4 ignition outputs and .... how many injector outputs really?

[lostsoul]

Yes, GTS/GTR G4 Plugin

Wastedspark ( 4 ignition outputs ) and 6 injector outputs plus 2 aux inj. outputs.

[Dave Kriedeman]

Hi lostsoul,

Just to clear things up here, in your opening question you state you have a Z32 300 ZX but you also state you are using a G4 GTS/GTR PLUG IN.

So I am a bit confused which isn't hard these days.

The 12 volt supply is ok.

There is no 8V trigger supply on the PNP.

Steve is correct the GT 101 has 3 wires ,

black with red stripe = ignition power

Black with white stripe = Trigger  1

Black = sensor ground = ECU pin 30

How have you setup your triggers.

TRIGGER SETUP SHOULD BE SET TO MULTI TOOTH MISSING.

Trigger 1 setting should be set as

HALL EFFECT

FILTER 1

TRIGGER EDGE FALLING

PULL UP ON

MULTI TOOTH POSITION = CRANK

TOOTH COUNT = 24

MISSING TEETH = 1

TRIGGER 2

OPTICAL / HALL

FILTER = 1

PULL UP = ON

TRIGGER EDGE = FALLING

SYNC MODE = CAM PULSE 1

Make sure the GT 101 has an air gap of approx. 0.040' or 1 mm.

You will need to turn the fuel off or disconnect the injectors so the engine doesn't try to start.

I never use the timing loop at the rear of the ignition loom, I always fit a HT plug lead from the coil to number 1 plug for the most accurate timing setup.

You need to activate CALIBRATE TRIGGERS,

Set the timing to 15 degrees, as this is standard timing, but use any value you wish.

Adjust the TRIGGER OFFSET UNTIL YOU MATCH THE TARGET TIMING VALUE.

You will then need to hit the F12 Key to bring up RUN TIME VALUES

Watch the TRIGGER / LIMITS TAB  and check it says

TRIGGER 1 YES (GREEN)

TRIGGER 2 YES (GREEN)

And you have a valid rpm signal.

As stated you do not want the the trigger 1 and 2 edges to occur at the same time.

Regards

Dave.

 

 

 

[lostsoul]

Hi Dave,

Aah, confusion is a constant companion :-(

Yes I have a GST/GTR Plugin fitted to a 300zx along with the appropriate harness modifications ... this is because the 300zx specific one wasn't available.

As for the timing, you originally set it up to zero degrees so guess I should keep it at that to keep inline with the existing ignition map/s ?

Thanks for the setup info. I will double check my settings against this.

Thanks

Nigel

P.S Sorry Dave I have you confused with someone else ... hence the references to you having done stuff on my car. 

Edited October 25, 2015 by lostsoul

[Dave Kriedeman]

Hi Nigel,

ha ha, I realised that.

Don't worry mate my middle name is confused.

Does the engine misfire.

Is the valve timing definitely 100% correct.

Regards

Dave.

Edited October 25, 2015 by Dave Kriedeman

[lostsoul]

I am going go to go over everything again tonight ... let you know how I get on.

Edited October 26, 2015 by lostsoul

[lostsoul]

Hi Dave,

Have checked my settings, the only difference was instead of "SYNC MODE = CAM PULSE 1" I had the SYNC MODE = CAM LEVEL.

I replaced the factory CAS Trigger Wheel with http://www.aemelectronics.com/products/sensors-connectors-accessories/nissan-cam-angle-sensor-discs.

Am I correct in my understanding that I just need to calibrate "Trigger 1" to ... in my case "0" degrees and I should have a runner then just the timing to match what the ECU is telling me ?

Cheers

Nigel

 

[Scott]

Hi Nigel, 

Dave will be away for a while, he is in hospital, but will be back better for it,

If you are running the AEM trigger disc you will need trigger 2 sync mode set to 'Cam pulse 1x'. With it set to Cam level the engine will not start.

After you have this corrected you need to set the base timing.

To do this you need a timing light. Connect to the ECU with PCLink and go to ECU Settings > Triggers > Calibrate and double click the 'Set Base Timing' spanner top open the base timing window.

In the first field enter the mark on the engine housing surrounding your crank pulley. For example 0 if you have a TDC mark. Press enter after entering the value.

Hook the timing light up to cylinder 1's HT lead, if you have COP ignition you may need to get inventive. Crank the engine and point the timing light at your crank pulley. You want the mark on the pulley to line up with the mark you specified in the first field. Adjust the number in the second field to make the mark on the pulley move. Increasing the number will make it move one way, decreasing the number will make it move the other way. Press enter after you change the value.

The third field needs setting up as you continue tuning the engine. For now enter a value of 80.

[lostsoul]

Thanks for that Scott ... Best wishes to Dave.

[lostsoul]

Ok, got a signal from both Trigger 1 and 2 with no errors.

Calibrated the base timing to zero degrees.

But, when trying to start it backfires through the exhaust ... It will be rich because I have increased the injector size to 1000cc from 800cc ( Dropped the Master Fuel from 12 to 10 ).

??

[Steve]

Nigel, you are probably 360* wrong so that it fires on the exhaust stroke rather than the compression stroke. try adding/retarding 360* to/from the offset number you got so far.

Edited October 31, 2015 by Steve

[lostsoul]

Thanks Steve,

Have got it running now ... the problem seems to be it was/is too rich.

Reason ... the MAP Sensor is no seeing any manifold vacuum, car starts straight away and there is a lot suction against your hand if placed against the TB while cranking but there is no suction on a vacuum hose while the engine is running ...

CAM's are timed using a degree with a TDI and are not super "lumpy"

The ECU indicates the MAP Sensor is "OK"

I am about to start pulling the plenum etc to check that I haven't missed something, to be honest I can't think anything that I could have missed that would cause vacuum to be "zero" even have snapping the throttle closed after blipping the throttle.

 

[Steve]

Where is the MAP`s hose connected? Balancetube?

Does the MAP see the same vacuum that you feel with your hand while cranking.

Could there be water inside your vacuumhose/MAP sensor? If you disconnect it and suck/blow on it with your mouth does it react on the screen?

You have verified timing with the engine running as well? Timing light hooked up to a lead between plug and coil, right?

If everything checks out im inclined to think cam timing.          Also. Afr and timing have an effect on vacuum so if you are still way rich then you should dial that in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 31, 2015 by Steve