turbodailydan Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 hi guysremoving the factory cas and installing a ckp/cmp trigger setup. Just looking for a wiring guide and trigger setup guide. I'm sure there's one on here somewhere but I've not been able to find it thanks dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 HI Dan its going to depend on the sensors you choose to use for the pickups.But the general gist is that what was the 360 signal will need to be moved to the crank sensor and the other 180 signal will need to stay on the cam position input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 Thanks Simon, so can use the existing cas harness to power the 2 sensors and just change settings via ecu side of things then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 Yep sure can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted March 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 Hi Chaps, just to bring this back up, I've ordered a Ross ckp/cmp trigger setup, which uses Hall effect sensors. Would like to wire these into the factory cas loom, is this possible? Also, what settings will I need to alter on the software? If if you have a link that explains the above then please feel free to share it if it's easier for you , cheers! Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 (edited) Hi Dan,Yes, the factory sensor wiring can be used. All hall sensors I've seen use +v, sensor ground, and the trigger signal wire. The only thing to check is that the sensors in the Ross kit use +12V. You will most likely end up using the Multi-tooth Missing trigger mode. I'm unsure of the Ross trigger pattern, but if you can provide some details we can provide some more in depth advice. Edited March 17, 2016 by Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 Top man Scott, thanks. the spec sheet says the Ross crank trigger uses a 12 tooth pickup il have the kit tommorow anyhow so I can confirm this then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted March 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 (edited) Ok I have the hardware now. The sensors are Honeywell gt101 Hall effect so can be run with 5v or 12v supply so that's good. When wiring these into the original cas harness, I presume wire the ckp to the trigger 1, and cmp to trigger 2? (Presuming you can switch these round on the software anyway?)And what needs to be adjusted on the software side of things? The crank trigger is a 12 tooth with no teeth missing. Edited March 19, 2016 by turbodailydan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 Your cranktrigger needs to be connected to the "trigger 1" input and cam on "trigger 2". If unsure wich wire goes where just use a DVOM and messure it.In trigger setup choose "Multitooth" and trigger priority 1Under trigger 1 it needs to be set to Optical/Hall (this is already set if you ran stock cas) Pullup ON, Falling edge, Crank posittion and 12 theeth.Trigger 2 is set to Optical/Hall, Pullup ON, Falling edge (Or what Ross recomends), and Cam pulse 1x.Thats it. Remember to calibrate your timing with a timinglight before you start it up. And use a plugwire between your coil and plug to hook up the timinglamp to..Also if your timng looks good while cranking but it wont start, you might be 360 degrees out. In this case add or substract 360 degrees to the timingoffset you are working with.Oh, and welcome to the world of stable timing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted March 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 Top man !Cheers mate will get this done and report back. Interested to see if the engine will run any smoother as a result of the direct pickups now. Perhaps get a little more timing in there too :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 In my experience that would be a yes and a yes.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted March 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Ok so I got all this mounted and wired up. Changed settings on vipec as per your settings. Only problem I have is the timing light is flashing very very slowly, like 1 flash every 2 seconds.. so I'm unable to check the timing. Runtime values with ignition on show trig1 arming 1.47v and trig2 arming 1.48v. And when cranking , Trigger signal 1 and 2 reads yes. trig1 err counter : 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted March 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Thinking my timing gun is bust as its not working at all now.. Will get another and re test.another question I have, is there a base figure to start from for the trigger offset? Base timing was set to 10 degrees and offset -87. Just wondered if I should start from zero or -360 and adjust until the light shows 10deg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted March 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 Ok so I managed to get her running and idling. Locked the timing to zero and adjusted the offset until timed up (offset -5).only issue I have is the cas has to be rotated fully anti clockwise to make it run. And it's not at 20deg btdc as per Nissans Manual. Presuming i should centre the cas, and then crank the engine with injectors off, and adjust offset until at zero and then adjust the cas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Ok so I managed to get her running and idling. Locked the timing to zero and adjusted the offset until timed up (offset -5).only issue I have is the cas has to be rotated fully anti clockwise to make it run. And it's not at 20deg btdc as per Nissans Manual. Presuming i should centre the cas, and then crank the engine with injectors off, and adjust offset until at zero and then adjust the cas. Yes, centre the CAS and re-adjust your offset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Almost there.. So I centred the cam angle sensor and Set the timing to zero and adjusted the offset which ended up at -310. Timing light showed zero lined up, cranked her over and sounded like timing was out, presumed by 360 degrees so changed offset to +50 and she fired up.so now, do I need to adjust the cam angle sensor until it's running at 20 degrees, by locking the timing to 20 via the same menu? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 You dont need to do anything to the cam sensor other than check that the cam synk signal and one of the crank theeth DONT pass the sensors at the same time. Preferably you should set the cam sensor so that it triggers halfway between two crank theeth.To get timinglight and crank marks to line up you just adjust timing offset in the software. turbodailydan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 (edited) That's what confused me as one of the tuners told me this It may not be @ Zero. Will most prob be a - figure thou. Once you happy with the timing is correct come out of the trigger set up screen store again and go to main ignition screen and ensure the timing at idle which will be 20Deg is correct. So I don't need to set the ignition to 20deg like the factory timing. I guess locking timing to zero and mechanicly setting it to zero is the same thing. Your just syncing the actual timing to what the ecu is expecting. I get it now. Just had my head in the old way of doing it confused me for a minute so I can just leave the cam angle sensor housing where it is, as long as the timing at the engine is reading the same as the ecu Another question I have is what is the milliseconds settings for at the bottom of that menu? It's currently set to 88ms Edited April 2, 2016 by turbodailydan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 So just to get this straight, rotating the cam sensor won't effect the timing? At the moment the cam sensor adjuster is in the centre position, so the cam trigger slot is aligned with the cam sensor at tdc. So your saying it needs to be adjusted so the cam trigger passes the cam sensor when the crank trigger is half way between 2 teeth? What's the importance for this?thanks again for the help appreciate it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 (edited) Your last q first.This is important cause.. well try to follow me here.What happens with your setup is this.. When the CAM synksignal fires it tells the ECU that, HEY Cylinder ONE is coming up for a spark. Start counting theeth on the CRANK and fire when ready! Now when it have counted (say 5 is the correct count at this particular spark event) its crank theet it triggers the spark.... Now, IF you have the cam synk triggering very close to a crank thooth you potentially have a problem due to the fact that the cam trigger is hooked up to the crank via a timingbelt. The same belt and system that made you get the ROSS kit in the first place cause of timing scatter. The camsynk signal STILL scatters as before so there is a possibility that the cam triggers on the WRONG side of the thooth the CRANK was supposed to start counting from. If this happens your timing will be (360/12=) 30 degrees wrong. Wich is bad.If you had a triggerwheel with a missing thooth this would not be an issue though... About the millisecond thing. Press on the setting and hit F1. It should give a good explenation on how it worksEDIT: No that wont work. Go to the ignition main page and hit ignition delay then F! Edited April 2, 2016 by Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Thanks steve! So should I get the crank half way between the btdc tooth and tdc tooth and then adust the cam sensor so it's not aligned with the cam trigger? Does it matter which direction I rotate it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 You have 12 theeth on the crank. Adjust so that the cam triggers in between two of them. Doesnt matter wich ones. Jst make sure you recalibrate in case you actually changed wich theeth the cam triggers between Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 So adjust the cam sensor and then just recheck the base timing again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Yes.Remember the camsenosrs ONLY job now is to tell the ecu when cyl one is about to come up for business. Thats it. The Crank is doing all the triggering duties now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbodailydan Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Got it. Thanks mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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